Just my .02 in regards to radio issues. Use a bec and problems go away!

Thanks for the repost FRONTI3R as I missed this entirely as I was on vacation the past 2 weeks. Awesome idea B ELDRIDGE. Someone is using his noggin. Thinking outside the box.

Haven't run that stuff, but i do run their 40c 5000 lipos and I am very pleased with them.

Two questions:

- has anyone actually ran B Eldrigdes diff mod yet and if so how's it holding up so far?

- I'm rebuiding my SC10 with all new plastics and after reinstalling the front end and before putting on the belt the drivetrain feels fairly smooth but tight, not notchy as some have experienced. My question is how free should the drivetrain be after you installing the belt? How well do your kits roll before you install the motor? I did add a 0.1 shim in the front diff to help minimize slop. The diff has 30k oil in it. I did not over tighten the diff case as I know that can be the culprit and cause binding. I need some guidance!

Is anyone using the CC 1410 in the sc10 4x4? Is it good for the truck? And do you have to do any modification to the chasis to get the 1410 or the Tekin Pro 4 to fit?

I'm new to this brushless and lipo stuff and just trying to get the truck to run right. I'm still having the sudden brakes applied on its own during acceleration. I called CC today and the guy said that the motor(CC 1406 4 pole 5700kV) is not designed for the sc10 4x4. He said I need a lower kV. He also said that the battery is weak for my application. I'm using the Duratrax 5400mah 20c hard case. I was told I should be using at least a 40c battery.

Yes, the 3800kv 1410 is fine. I run it with a 14 tooth pinion. No modification is needed. Personally, I would run 40C plus batteries in 4wd sc. These trucks are heavy and the amp draw gets up there. I have run lesser batteries, but you will heat them.

i am running fast lap products chassis brace and u can still run undertray thats all i run with it on.

so just to clear it up. the truck only does wheelies when i come off a jump ledge when theres crazy momentum or a bump flips the front up. yes the front wheels do stretch out and its not like i can do wheelies on demand. But as far as the ops check you are telling me to do u want me to hold the spur gear, then twist the nut holding the center diff assembly with a wrench and see if the front to rear move opposite from each other?

I finally ran the modded diffs last week and they holding up great. I ran about 20 packs thru the car. I even bent a cva bone which is caused by the cva bone binding against the outdrive and it did not hurt the modded diff. they still leak a little but not as bad as when they wobbled. I think some of the leaking is because the outdrives are worn from when they were wobbling right where the seal is. Maybe a seal that is a little thicker would help.

I honestly, couldn't disagree more. Spektrum makes fantastic radios and even better Air Radios. That's a blanket statement because it's true.

Almost every complaint I have ever heard or read from anyone against Spektrum is about brown-outs and whatnot. It's actually laughable at this point because it's such BS. Most guys Go to Spektrum out of the Nitro/Old FM Futaba crap and buy electric planes. This is statistical being that I work in an 80% airplane RC shop. They don't know what their doing, Kill the Plane and claim a brown-out. BTW: Futaba guys seem to be a very outspoken opinionated bunch who love to tell other's what their opinion should be too, and the Spektrum guys... Just go enjoy RC. =)

JR is the same exact DMS technology and IMAC Pros use them, Guys use DX8's and compete in IMAC with 12,000.00 Planes and have never once experienced ANY. single. Glitch.

Purely opinion based: Most complainers are Futaba guys who can't figure out a Digital Radio.

+1

As Far as I'm concerned, This is on topic because it's refering to the use of a 3rd Party Radio for our Truck. And some of the Spektrum radios (low priced compared) are getting a little bit of a bad rap, and I don't like that. (I'm done, not going to drag it on. But, Just sayin')

FYI: Several Losi guys run Spektrum. Including the guys that were kicking our guy's asses for quite a while.
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I have not gotten around to the bearing mod. I have been swamped with Chassis braces (*looks at my pile waiting for the last F****ing part to get delivered*) and School classes started last week.

I'll try to get this done and start testing asap, but don't hold your breath. I'm sure Mantis is doing something himself, and it'll be alot nicer than me chopping a Diff up.

In the beginning of the video you came out of a turn pulled the wheels and it held them up for much longer than it should have, When my truck does that the front tires balloon alot. the truck just seems really loose in the rear liek its getting too much drive and not transfering enough to the front. I could be wrong it just seems like the dif is tight.
But to answer your question, yes, check that and let me know.

I tried that, I couldn't even get the bugger to slide in, It kept cutting the seal.

I see. let pull the housing cover off and give it a try. yes the problem i mostly have is the rear end comes around soo easy its crazy. i may have tightend the diff too tight and its not getting the action front to back. also i was running the old front diff fluid setup 30,000 in the front and 10,000 in the rear. im not sure that has any effect. I do know its the wrong setup for ball diff.

delete - lol

I think radio questions/discussions should be talked about in the radio/electronics section of this site. just sayin