hi all
just noticed that there is a 4x power capacitor upgrade available i was wondering whats the benefit of adding it
cheers

Just too general of a question. Vehicle, track layout, traction, etc... all can effect boost and settings, especially in 17.5

Here is some old information I posted awhile back, just bringing it to the top again for people to use:

With some questions posted about 17.5 Boosted racing, I think it might be a good idea to go over how I have been working with the VTX Speed Controls over the last year.

First off, we need to determine a good starting point on gearing, and probably the best way to do that with a new track or a new vehicle, is to do a little research locally and find out what optimum gearing would be Un-Boosted, which on the XXX-SCT seems to be anywhere from 84/24 to 84/27 (depending on track size, etc......)

Now, with this type of gearing setup, the motors will be warm already without timing (on the VST Motors, I have found that though temps as high as 160-170 degrees won't hurt the motor, that temps much higher than 150 will hurt performance), so we need to gear down, the more timing we add, the more we need to gear down.

Start with unboosted settings and unboosted gearing, and run 2 minutes of practice. Note performance and temps.

So lets start geared down by 10%. If we were running 84/25 un-boosted (a 3.36:1 Ratio) we would be running 84/23 (3.65:1 Ratio, about 10% lower). Run 2 minutes of practice, and note performance and temps. What we should find from out baseline is that we have more "punch", less strait-line speed, and lower temps than before.

Now, start adding some Accel Boost timing, initially, 5 degrees of timing, and lets say 8000RPM as a start point, and 15000RPM as the finish point. Run 2 minutes of practice, and note performance and temps. We should see an increase in punch, and increase in strait-line speed, and temps should be higher than that of the previous test. As of right now, don't worry about strait-line or strait away speed, we will deal with that later.

At this point, it is all about feel and drivability. With the current setup, we should be roughly the same top speed as we were with our un-boosted setup, but with more punch and bottom end. If we need more "grunt" or punch, then gear down more, and add more accel boost timing. Remember, practice in 2 minute intervals and monitor temps.

Now, it is possible to get as much grunt out of a 17.5 as a 13.5 or even a 10.5 motor without timing, so if we run into drivability or traction problems, then we can make adjustments to the RPM settings. If we went from 8k/15k settings to 8k/25k settings, we will still be adding the same amount of Accel Boost timing (lets say 5 degrees), but with the two numbers being farther apart, the VTX will be adding it much more gradual. This will be easier to drive, and will not make as much heat. The lower RPM number is one to be careful with, because if it is too low, it is VERY easy to overheat the ESC and motor. When the motors are at lower RPM, they are not very efficient, and if we are adding timing at very low RPM (under 7500RPM), it isn't very effective and we run a high risk of hurting something. Remember, if we need more grunt, gear down. We can add the speed with timing.

Everything up to this point has been to come up with a setup that is fast, drivable, with manageable temps while on the infield part of the track. Don't worry about the strait away yet. Once you have the performance needed there, with safe temps, then move on.

Once we have established a good setup that works well on the infield and is drivable, but if we need more strait away speed, that is when we use the Top Speed Timing settings. If the previous steps have been followed, start by adding 5 degrees of Top Speed Timing, with a Slew Rate of 4 Deg/1000RPM. Practice for 2 minutes and note performance and temps. We should see noticeable speed out of it, but only see single digit temp changes from out previous tests (without Top Speed Timing). If the temps are safe, you can add more TST.

Use the Slew Rate to adjust how aggressively the VTX adds the T.S.T., if the speed comes on too late, try 6 or 8/1000RPM settings. If the car wants to spin out, try less. Remember, all the power in the world does nothing if we can't drive it

Mainly for bigger motor classes with allot of grip like Mod Sedan, 4wd SCT, etc..... you would see mainly in brakes and bottom end punch.

See, in any A/C (Brushless) motor, when you try to de-accelerate it, it turns into a generator/alternator. It will make electricity, more than the ESC is using. So, the capacitors are there to store/absorb the energy. The more caps, the more it can store, so when you jump back on the power the ESC can discharge the capacitors.

Receiver wouldn't have anything to do with the ESC turning on. It should still power up.[/QUOTE]

When you removed all the wires - make sure that the cap board is still soldered on correctly, is that board or either of the caps are not connected the unit may not turn on. Also check any plugs - I had a driver who's car kept shutting off, he was pissed. Took of the wires put them on another speed controls and had the same issue - he found out the deans plug had a bad solder joint. If that doest help fix it there might be something more to look at.

Copperhead has been finalized and we should see it in a few weeks. We recently got a look at the instructions, which is normally the last thing before its released.

OK so I been racing 1/8th scale Nitro for a few years now. I've bought a Kyosho SC-R and I am ready to put ESC and motor together. I have narrowed it down to Tekin and Viper I know all about the Tekin series plenty of guys run them at my track, however I have no clue when it comes to Viper. Would someone tel me the difference between the VTX10 and the R or should I be waiting on the VX4. I am going to run an 8.5 motor if that matters. What sets the Viper apart from the others. I know probrally somewhere in these 235 pages you might have already covered it. I just don't want to read 235 pages of irrelevent information. Thanks

The capacitor board looked fine, but no telling if there is anything wrong internally with the capacitors.

I sent in a tech question to Viper but haven't heard anything back.

I really like this ESC and would love to continue to use it but I need to to work.

Quick tuning!!! the card is tiny and it takes 2 seconds to switch into it.

Runs cool with about 2x the power of the other stuff ran by top drivers.

Smooth but the top end is quick so you have good speed down the straight but it has good low end. Brakes are about 50x better than lrp, drag brake also.

Simple to setup

Motors run very cool, good low end and top end speed. Brakes are smooth.

Very nicely said Guy!! And Double A Main wins today -- you are on a roll!!

The VX4/Copperhead series is a sensorless system, the VTX/VST products are sensored and more competition inspired.

Great day of racing. I qual'ed 2nd in mod 4wd buggy and took 2nd in the main. I'm running a caster racing 4wd buggy powered by a Viper 7.5 and VTX10R esc with no boost.
Qual


Main

The major difference between the two are the amount of motor that you can run with it. The VTX10 has a limit of 6.5T, where as the VTX10R has no motor limit with 540 motors. Also, the VTX10R is capable of running 550 motors. Both are full sensored systems, and are very, very smooth.

The biggest reason people seem to migrate to the Viper system is because of the drivability (the VTX esc's are very smooth when when using partial throttle), that they are more tuneable, and you can make adjustments on them very easily with the ProGauge. One can literally keep the ProGauge in their pocket and make changes to the ESC right in pit lane or at the track, not in their pits.

The Copperhead/VX4 systems are un-sensored and are really aimed at the 4wd SCT market, as the VX4 motors are all "4-Pole" design, and a 4 pole motor is not legal (as far as I know) in any of the 2wd 1/10th scale classes. ROAR has really only allowed 540 4-Poles to run in 4wd SCT and 1/8th Scale classes thus far.

Ok, so for an 1/8 scale "newbie"??? What viper system and motor would I want for a 1/8 scale Associated RC8.2e??? I plan on running very large, outdoor tracks, so it has to stay cool, but fast at the same time.

Guys i just want to thank everyone at viper for all the help last week getting my order to me and all, they really handled the situation great.

I ended up 4th overall out of 56 entres in stock buggy for the first round of the Pacific NW Showdown race at TRCR in Wahington I am the Pink and green car


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoyP...1&feature=plcp

Well. I have ran the 17.5T ib my B4.1 buggy and wow. it's fast.


I am still playing with gearing on the track I race at. currently at a 30/75 has plenty of go..

I just ordered a VTX10R/6.5 for the B44.1 should be here tomorrow

New points series starts Wednesday and Friday,

I am liking this system.

I just wish you had a way to tell how many RPM's the motor is turning down the straight to help adjust the smart brakes.

I have it at 80% at 10,000 and it doesn't work

Change to 40% and start lowering the RPM down 1000RPm at a time. You will find it.

Viper is currently testing their 1/8scale ESC and motors, nothing in production yet, but I think we will have news in Feb. on them.

There are pics of it on the Viper Facebook Page