Cheers, I'll add those to the shoping list.

Would slipper clutch pads be a consumable for racing the b44.1. How many race meets would you expect to get out of a set of pads.

I don't think I've had the slipper out of my sons car in 4 + months of weekly racing.

Just finished building my new B44.1. Setup is all stock.

Strange thing is that the rear wheels have way too much camber; 4-5 degree negative.

As per p13 of the manual I made the rear camber link 67mm (actually the manual which is supposed to be scale 1:1 results in just below 66mm).

I checked all other setting several times but I did not do anything wrong... Manual must be wrong?!??!

Can anyone check the length of your rear turnbuckle? Please let me know if you measure end to end or center of ball cup to center of ball cup (as per the manual). I'd like to achieve -1 degrees camber which is stock. I know I can use the setup tool but I'd rather find out what went wrong and what the correct length should be.

I've been google-ing for an hour but can't find anything...

I just double checked my buggy, the rear camber links measure out to 69mm. The illustration comes out to approx 67mm. I'm not sure where the mistake is, either TB length or the outer ball stud location is wrong in the manual.

Either way, I use the middle hole for the rear ball stud and the links are 69 mm. Without measuring I'm gonna guess I have about -1 degree of camber.

I left mine and ran it. Felt good. Then ended up at 3 degree rear and 2 degree front. Feels great on our track. It will take some testing. 1 degree on the table is a positive in hard cornering. Leave it try and decrease from there.

I think its just supposed to a be a visual guide to get both sides of the car assembled the same. Once you have the car built you're going to adjust it to the base setup anyway...IE: I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks for the tips.

I changed to 68+mm and then it was around -2 degrees. Did notice the wheels were not symmetrical (same angle of camber) even though the turnbuckles were EXACTLY the same length... Had to make small adjustments.

Now all OK and once on the track I will fine tune to my liking

But first have to wait for my electronics to come in. Ordered and shipped but not in yet...

strange, i've never concerned myself with the length of the turnbuckles and just set the toe/camber according to a gauge or setup station...

Are you using wheel with the tires mounted? I prefer to use bare wheels to set camber and toe. It gives a more accurate reading then dealing with the flex of the tire. Also, be sure the vehicle is on a clean, flat, smooth surface. Cutting boards make for good inexpensive set up boards.

Acrylic cutting board

On the table camber settings.
You can get a lot of different driving feel from playing with the camber. When the track is tacky I run -2/rear -1/front and I run that most of the time. I have ran -1/rear and 0/front but the traction has to be awesome. I always run less in the front to balance how the kit drives, it seems to give the rear more traction.
By playing with the front camber you can get more steering or even some push. More negative is more steering going in off power and less camber is more push going in off power and less gives great on power coming out with more control BTW.
-1 is a happy medium for most all round on the front. If you have a lot of short burst jumps -1 is popular all around, it gives decent forward bite. The more camber I use makes forward bite on power kinda loose though if the track is dry. Less on dry makes it more precise in a straight line, great for jumps but horrible in the turns. More has been good for me when its dry in the infield.
Long post but hope it helps. I've messed with set ups so much I'm drained. I just set it up for medium traction (-1/front -2/rear) and let it ride any more and just leave it. It works well for club racing. Each round is different at our track so changing and knowing what to set it at per round takes a lot of testing per track. Good luck. We most always have at least Medium traction.

Maybe others will chime in as well.

If in a pinch having as in a broken ball cup in warm ups, the settings and lengths noted make for a quick change out. I measure mine from the outside of the ball cups. If you commonly run a certain camber making all your back up sets the same accurate length is the only way to make a quick change before a race. Been there.

I modified AE part #7336 to use as side mounts to replace the plastic tabs that screw to the sides of the chassis. Works like a charm.

Nice mod but the plastic tabs are for when you don't run the undertray, not to mount it..unless they changed things on the .1 vs. my 44

Correct. However, the tracks I run aren't packed enough to run protective film only so those tabs are basically useless, which is why I replaced them with what you see in the picture. Using those mounts I now don't need to use the servo mount and the other little screw to mount the under body.