just pulled the trigger on an ix8 esc! Little valentines day present to myself I guess. I will hopefully be the first to put this beast in a 10-11 pound muggy and see how she performs at full blast with extreme gearing and loads on her. Hopefully she will hold up! Now I just need to find a big nice 1/8th scale sensored motor to really see what all of the hype is about!

I'm trying to hold out for the Dynamic 8 combo...love my x-12 motors so much...I have 8.5 octa, 10.5, 13.5, 17.5, 21.5 and was planning on a 5.5T X12L...I really want to give the Dynamic 8 a try....

If you want to go with something else, I ran a Tekin 2000kv truggy motor in my e-maxx on 16.8v and it was phenoMENTAL! That was an amazing motor. Should be able to handle your muggy no problem.

Hello,

I'm considering this ESC for my new car, but couldn't find any good documentation in, just that two page "manual" on lrp site. The "manual" however only lists some very basic adjustability, nowhere near what every other brand allows. This makes me wonder, is there any way to setup this ESC to similar detail as Tein, Castle, Hobbywing, etc?

I could be wrong, as I'm still new to the LRP stuff, but with the 4 settings that you should have access to, you don't really NEED the extra stuff that other ESC vendors let you tinker with. LRP still has plenty of national and world championships to their name with only those 4 settings on their 10th scale ESCs.

I think - and this is entirely speculation - that the things they leave out of the ESC are things that you can tune using most race-grade radio systems.

The esc only has basic adjustments and they are all done thru the buttons on the esc. No software needed. I have been racing with this esc for a few race days now and find it every bit as smooth as the RX8 I had all tweaked out. The folks over at LRP did a nice job with the power profiles. I tried a few of them and wound up set at 3 on the power profile. Its has plenty of pop but is very smooth and drivable on the tight infield sections. Im guessing most racers will wind up set at 2 or 3 and anyone just looking for raw power will go for 4 or 5. 1 would be for those days where traction is very low and you are just trying to keep the tires on the dirt. So far Im still liking this esc alot.

I have never liked drag brake in my 1/8 so I havent played with it on this esc. I just leave it turned off.

Just like you, I thought it was kind of weird that there was not other adjustments when I first got this thing. But in reality, I dont miss it at all. The other stuff is pretty much just set it and forget it unless you change motors and/or battery voltages, or want to turn reverse on or off.

• Voltage cut off settings for 2s to 6s or disabled. All cutoff settings are calculated using 3.2v/cell cutoff value. (ie. 12.8v cutoff for 4s).
• Drive Profiles - 6 options. which is just Forward only, Forward w/ brake, or forward w/brake and reverse, then the same options with motor revese rotation.
• 5 Power Profiles which is basically a current limiter with 1 being the softest and 5 being the most aggressive.(Default is 2)
• Drag Brake - setting of zero thru 5 on the amount of drag brake. (default is 0 off)

Thanks for the answers guys, I'll think about it. Right now I feel wrong about doing almost everything in the radio instead pf the ESC, since the radio has no way of knowing anything about what's happening to the car, especially traction or whether it's braking or reversing, so the ESC can do everything better.
Can the ix8 finally run sensorless? The instructions make me guess not, but I still have some hope.

Sensored only.

Thanks, bad news. Are sensors (and wire, ports) on these and matching motors very reliable in extremely dusty environments? Last year I had seen some problems with the spx8-vector 8 combo.

Hi all,

I have been using the iX8/Dynamic 8 combo for a while and I am very happy with it.

But a few days ago the Internal-Temp-Check System stopped working. Now, when I turn the Esc on, while pressing the mode button, nothing happens, when before it flasshed according to the Internal-Temp-Check System and as described in the manual.

Did this happen to any of you? Your's is working fine?

Anymore feedback on these? Are they lasting?

Mine is holding up great so far. 8-9 race days and a few practice days on it now. Still runs like the day it was new. Couldn't be happier with it.

Is there any replacement switch that fits 1:8 radio boxes and switch caps? The stock one seems the same used on onroad esc's and I am afraid it will not stand up to dirt.

The nice thing about this esc is that the switch just plugs into it and can easily be changed. Ive been running it with the stock switch with no issues now for a few months. Switch is holding up just fine, but replacing it with something else that you may prefer is a snap even if you need to solder your own plug onto a different switch so it plugs into the port on the esc.

Thanks! I was hoping it is just a simple switch, nothing special with inductance or whatever built in that I can't measure with a simple voltmeter.

Now I know what happened. The problem was not with the software, but with the button. The Mode button was not working. After a few days using the ESC the plastic button started to shrink and doesn't reach the point of contact inside the ESC. I disassembled the ESC's bottom cover and took the button off, and now it is working. I just have to use a small allen wrench to press the mode button inside the ESC, until I can get a new button.