Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

That's just the amount of brake the car has when you barely touch the brakes on the transmitter. You can set it so it's not very noticeable at first or so it has a whole lot of brake at first. Or you can set it to "initial brake: drag brake", that's how I always set mine. Hope that makes sense. It's similar to exponential.

Precision1

iTrader: (51)

Sweet, more fast guys running HW.

Hara!

Hope prices don't go up now!

Vetthed

I also have the HW sct pro and my fan runs as soon as I power up. Was this way since new. Is it not suppose to run constantly?
No performance issues whatsoever .

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Yep congrats! And hes not the only one

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Mine does the same thing.

5th wheel

Thanks Jfuel for that information.

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

This is where I would start on a base ESC setup for 4wd buggy using an 8.5 motor...

Let me know if you have any questions.

Xerun 120A V3.1 ESC - 8.5 4WD Buggy Base Setup.pdf

Alan

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

I know this has been answered but I thought I would put my 2 cents worth in.

Drag Brake - This is the amount of brake that is always applied when you are off throttle. This was designed initially to mimic the drag force of a brushed motor. We have found it to be a tuning aid of some sorts to help a car naturally slow down into and at the apex of a turn. I have found on some track the more drag brake I run the faster times I could turn.

I have also found that it can be a bit of a crutch as well. I have since learned to manage my brakes with my finger more as drag brake is static and you can't change it dynamically during a race if you have too much or not enough, so my suggestion is to not rely on it too much and learn to training your driving finger over time to do the majority of your braking.

Drag brake also comes at a cost of motor temps. The more you run the more it works your motor and esc during a run, increasing temps over time.

Initial Brake - This setting is the amount of brake that is applied once you you move the trigger to the brake position. Initial Brake and Drag brake need to work together. You don't want a high drag brake setting and then a low initial brake as it will make the car feel funny under braking as if the brakes fade for a moment during initial braking.

I have found the smoothest setup for me to always set initial brake to be = to drag brake. This setting makes everything more dynamic. If you change your drag brake you initial braking will keep the car slowing down in a linear fashion. I almost never run more or less initial brake and keep it = to drag brake.

I personally have found 5 to 10% drag brake in most off road racing is the most I run. If you are running heavier load applications like 4wd buggy and 4wd SCT you will find drag brake will add additional heat to the motor more quickly.

I hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions.

Good luck and happy racing!

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

My son runs a 4wd SCT with a 4000Kv motor in it and a Hobbywing V2.1 ESC. Because he is running a lower KV motor and we have the endponts still turn down a bit and the punch setting turned down a bit he can run 40 to 50c batteries with now issues. Battery never comes off the track above 75 to 80 degrees.

Now my 4w SCT has a 4700KV Hobbywing 4 Pole Motor in it with the SCT Pro esc. If I run a 50c battery I can notice the performance difference and the battery will come off the track closer to 95 to 100 Degrees after a 6 min. run. This would be working the battery harder than I would like and degrade the batter faster over time. If I run a 70c or greater battery the temps are much lower on the battery at the end of the run and performance is better and more consistent for the length of the run.

We are running on a medium traction clay track that is medium sized, indoor.

You may get by with a lower C pack depending on your setup and driving style, but for me personally I run higher C packs because they will last longer because of the setup and my driving style.

Hope this helps.

Alan

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

The V3.1 has a full Alum case and handles the loads very well. I have ran a 6.5 motor in my 2wd SCT and the esc had no issues handling that load...(I was not running a fan either) I suggest in any 4wd application to run the fan at all times and even higher amp draw 2wd applications.

I just posted a base setup for 4wd buggy, would be a good starting point.

Good Luck!

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

Jerry,

Let me know if you try the boosted setup or the wild boosted setup on the 17.5 motor...

Good Luck

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

i'll agree and disagree. yes, in a perfect world if you were 100% precise 100% of the time, zero drag brake would be the way to go. your finger theoretically is 100% linear whereas drag brake is constant. however in the real world, for all but a select few of us, the consistency of drag brake is a plus. there is a very fast local guy (who also does well in large events) runs a lot of drag brake (especially in 2wd). other fast locals says his cars are almost undriveable to them.

also, as you get up there in age and your reflexes slow, drag brake is a big help as it will help your car rotate on 180's quicker, especially on higher bite surfaces.

it's definitely something you want to play with if you've never messed with it before.

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

I agree some tracks that seem to have a decent amount of consistent grip from start to end of a race night, you can dial in higher amounts of drag brake if it helps reduce laptimes... go for it! I personally race on a few tracks that the grip changes and goes away by the end of the night. If I run a large amount of drag brake early in the night I may be looping out into the corners by the end of the night...

It is great tuning option to try and see what you like, all personal preference, do some testing and see what you like for your track and setup (General statement to all) Thanks for the additional input RC Phreak!

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

Agree 100%

JFuel11

iTrader: (152)

I wanted to share some information on the SCT Pro ESC from Hobbywing. I have been testing two of these bad boys for several weeks now and all I can say is I am amazed at the performance and capability of these units!

First Setup - 1/8 E-Buggy 4S Lipo & 2250 Hobbywing Motor:
This setup is not for the timid! Tons of power from bottom to top and great run time. I was running it in an RC8.2E Buggy and we run 10 min. mains. The ESC didn't break a sweat in this configuration. Was smooth and between the punch settings (DDRS) and gearing I got the power band just the way I wanted it!

Second Setup - 1/8 E-buggy 2S Lipo & 4000KV SCT Hobbywing 4 Pole Motor
We race a smaller indoor track at times that only allows 2s configuration on the 1/8 e buggies. This class is a true test of electronics and motors because when the voltage gets cut in half the amp draw doubles. I was blow away at the performance and power I was able to generate on just a 2s setup with the SCT Pro ESC and Hobbywing 4000KV 4 pole motor. We ended up still turning the Endpoints down a little on this setup. Tons of power! I will say you could telll we were stating to push the threashold a little as we did thermal the unit on time during an 8 min practice session but we were geared pretty aggressive. Once we dropped a tooth were were good to go! What amazing equipment!

Third Setup - 4x4 SCT Pro Short Course - SCT Pro ESC and Hobbywing 4 Pole 4700KV Motor
All I can say about this setup is mad power... Hands down crazy slap me in the rump power.. But it was smooth. Once I got the gearing where I wanted it, stepped down the Punch Setting (DDRS) a little and even turned the endpoint down to about 90 - 92% it was dialed. It was on a small to medium indoor track that slicks off by the end of the night and I was still pulling anyone off the turns! This setup is amazing!

I have posted editable setup sheet below for the SCT ESC and these configruatoin above. Please feel free to download the blank version to track and share your SCT Pro setups!

Xerun SCT Pro ESC - 1-8 EBuggy 2250 Motor 01-30-2014.pdf

Xerun SCT Pro ESC - 1-8 EBuggy 2s 4000KV SCT Motor 01-30-2014.pdf

Xerun SCT Pro ESC - 4WD SC10 4700KV Motor 01-30-2014.pdf

Xerun SCT Pro ESC - 01-30-2014.pdf

Thank you Hobbywing and Hobbywing North American!!!

Good Luck and happy racing!