Stevie S

iTrader: (2)

Lots of faulty G2’s out there and a common theme from HW is stating user error

Striknine

I emailed them and filled out the RMA form 5 days ago, no response yet. Would like to hear their reason something like this would happen as I am confident it wasn’t the fault of my own.

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

they will answer, remember some places are understaffed because of covid.

Bigv

iTrader: (3)

Just wanted to put this out thier for 8 scale buggy users for buggy I would use the xrun sct ESC way more reliable the the xr8 plus down here in Canada we've had 4 xr8 pluses break out of the blue and hw did not have any answers for it I love my sct ESC and keep my xr8 as back up I would only use the xr8 plus in truggy if I ran ir

Skynet5

i disassembled my 4268 1900kv. Wasn't experienced and found shims. 4 in total. Two brass and two steel. 3 were on the table and 1 steel one was on the pinion end shaft.

The steel ones are curved, almost on purpose to have a bit of spring to them.

I guess there is either a default way these should go on. Or they are calibrated in factory.

Which way should these go on? I've reassembled as follows...

---pinion-brass-steel-rotor-steel-brass-sensor.

As the steel are curved ive put the concaved side facing the rotor. As that gives the compression.

Any help much appreciated.

Skynet5

Went to the track to day with the shims as follows:

---pinion-steel-steel-rotor-brass--brass-sensor

Put almost 4 full packs through this with 1hr 30mins of hard practise.

Motor temp reading gave me 180c!!!!! But the motor was just warm to touch so ignored. It didn't turn on protection mode, which is set to 105c.

Then the xr8 plus started dropping into sensorless mode. Didnt notice it as I drove, but light was blinking green/red.


It turned on alright. And I couldi drive up and down my street for 10mins and it read a sensible temp for the motor of 60c and doesn't drop into sensorless mode. But at the track it wasn't as happy.

I've reshimmed so it's
---pinion-brass-brass-steel-steel-rotor-sensor

So the rotor is closer to the sensor and will see if it drops in to sensorless again.

So I'm hoping it was the shimming I just got wrong.
​​​​​​

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

FYI:


So I just resolved an issue that crept up on an 8 month old ESC that has been working flawless up until last race day this past Wed night on my XR10 Pro.


Open practice + Round 1, perfectly fine, no wrecks, no issues, charge battery, prep for Round 2, put car on track for warm-up and ESC powers off the moment I apply throttle. I keep rebooting the ESC to no avail, so then I decide to recalibrate it, then it works, I quickly get on the driver stand and complete my race without issue, no wrecks, etc... Rinse and repeat, the same exact issue happens again just before the mains, except this time it doesn't matter how many times I recalibrate the ESC keeps shutting off, so this time I disconnect the sensor wire, then it works, I quickly plug the sensor wire back in and finish the main without issue, no wrecks, etc.


I take the car home and test it on Thu night, but then the problem persists no matter what, even if I use steering, the servo draws power and the ESC shuts off, all I can do is calibrate it and it blinks normal, but any steering or throttle input causes the ESC to shut off, I disconnect the servo, it shuts off, disconnect sensor wire, it shuts off, this goes on for 10+ min and I can't get it work.


I send an email to HW Support asking for help, they give me an RMA to exchange the ESC for a deep discount on a replacement.


So I'm in the process of removing the ESC today and just as I'm packing it up into a box, I just happen to notice a very small "flake" of solder was wedged between the positive post and the B wire post on the ESC itself. I grab my hobby knife and carefully cut the flake away which had "shorted" these 2 terminals together. I re-solder the motor and hook the ESC back up and it works as good as new!


No idea what caused that solder bridge to form, but it taught me a lesson the importance of re-soldering the ESC connections at least every 6 months to avoid this sort of problem

Scootermcgavin

I just purchased the xr10 pro g2 160a to go with a HW 6.5t motor. I had planned on running 3s for drag racing but when I plug in the 3s battery the red light just blinks. No throttle response and the unit won't even turn off. With 2s everything works as it should. What am I missing?

AMoN46

Ho all. I received a xerun xr8 sct 140a. Can i use lipo 4s hv? I Will use on 1.8 buggy..
I have to change some setting on the esc? Thanks all

Sabin

iTrader: (1)

Just a quick question. I'm running a Futaba 4PM and I'd like to take advantage of its telemetry functions via s.bus. I'd like to order the XR8 pro, but what do I need to get in order to enable telemetry output for motor RPM, temperature and battery voltage?

wfo

iTrader: (6)

Does anyone have an option fan, for the G2 esc Is it a30x30X10 fan? My broke a blade and it’s loud and vibrating.. thanks

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

YEAH Racing aluminum fan , it holds up really well

Bsthetech

iTrader: (17)

Installed a HW XR10 pro "Stock Spec" ESC in my 2019 T4 with a new Revtech 21.5 motor. The car only runs backwards and the ESC doesn't have a reverse motor option. Am I screwed or am I missing something? Do T4's require a ESC with reverse motor direction as an option?

0010

iTrader: (4)

Yes, I run this ESC in my eBuggy on 4s. Works great.

0010

iTrader: (4)

Check your motor wires, you may have the A and C wires connected backwards.