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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 02-01-2014, 11:36 AM
  #5836  
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING
The v3 series esc's use a pure 100% sensored signal for 1/10th touring cars and buggies for 540 motors its is not made for sct 's etc .The sct pro is for scts which runs a automatic dual switching mode which works great with large 4 pole motors and above.

Please read my post 2 pages back and you will understand how it all works .

Yes some motors will work some wont with the v3 all depends on currents and magnetic field produced by the motors dont forget stators and rotors and sensor boards are all in one small confined space so as the motor heats there is a big chance that the sensored signal will be distorted causing the error to occur.

Run SCT pro which is made for these applications and you will not have an issue.
so no chance of a 4 pole software for the V3.1 like there is for the orion r10?
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:51 AM
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Is there a us based warranty repair service location or is it just in china. Im not sure what I did but my esc just started spuddering on acceleration with load. Without load its fine so im thinking its internal. Also the esc is a little over a month old
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:58 AM
  #5838  
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Default Yes... US Based Warranty and Repair Services

Originally Posted by naterpatater77
Is there a us based warranty repair service location or is it just in china. Im not sure what I did but my esc just started spuddering on acceleration with load. Without load its fine so im thinking its internal. Also the esc is a little over a month old
http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/rma

If the ESC was purchased From Hobbywing North America (Falconsekido) or one of the authorized retailers then you can get warranty service directly from HWNA.

http://www.falconsekido.com/pages/authorized-dealer

Hope this helps!
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:18 PM
  #5839  
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Originally Posted by JFuel11
I wanted to share some information on the SCT Pro ESC from Hobbywing. I have been testing two of these bad boys for several weeks now and all I can say is I am amazed at the performance and capability of these units!

First Setup - 1/8 E-Buggy 4S Lipo & 2250 Hobbywing Motor:
This setup is not for the timid! Tons of power from bottom to top and great run time. I was running it in an RC8.2E Buggy and we run 10 min. mains. The ESC didn't break a sweat in this configuration. Was smooth and between the punch settings (DDRS) and gearing I got the power band just the way I wanted it!

Second Setup - 1/8 E-buggy 2S Lipo & 4000KV SCT Hobbywing 4 Pole Motor
We race a smaller indoor track at times that only allows 2s configuration on the 1/8 e buggies. This class is a true test of electronics and motors because when the voltage gets cut in half the amp draw doubles. I was blow away at the performance and power I was able to generate on just a 2s setup with the SCT Pro ESC and Hobbywing 4000KV 4 pole motor. We ended up still turning the Endpoints down a little on this setup. Tons of power! I will say you could telll we were stating to push the threashold a little as we did thermal the unit on time during an 8 min practice session but we were geared pretty aggressive. Once we dropped a tooth were were good to go! What amazing equipment!

Third Setup - 4x4 SCT Pro Short Course - SCT Pro ESC and Hobbywing 4 Pole 4700KV Motor
All I can say about this setup is mad power... Hands down crazy slap me in the rump power.. But it was smooth. Once I got the gearing where I wanted it, stepped down the Punch Setting (DDRS) a little and even turned the endpoint down to about 90 - 92% it was dialed. It was on a small to medium indoor track that slicks off by the end of the night and I was still pulling anyone off the turns! This setup is amazing!

I have posted editable setup sheet below for the SCT ESC and these configruatoin above. Please feel free to download the blank version to track and share your SCT Pro setups!

Attachment 1161062

Attachment 1161061

Attachment 1161063

Attachment 1161064

Thank you Hobbywing and Hobbywing North American!!!

Good Luck and happy racing!
What temp is your motor coming off on the 1/8 4S setup. I tried like hell with gearing and speedo setup to keep temps down on the 2250 but it just ran hot. I now run the 1800 and I geared it up to be smooth and fast. Temps on the 1800 rarely exceed 145 degrees. If you have the 2250 running cool, I will give it another shot.
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:25 PM
  #5840  
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Originally Posted by JFuel11
We had a great night of club racing last night and the Hobbywing equipment just keeps impressing!

This club track is a small to medium size club track where you can put the power down if you are hooked up... but tends to slick off by the end of the night.

Alan Bachman - Hobbywing North America Team Driver:
Night started good with a first round TQ in Mod 2wd Buggy and 3rd Qualificaiton spot in Pro 4x4 SCT. 2nd round of qualifying went smooth with a hold on the TQ spot in Mod 2wd Buggy and a smooth run Pro 4x4 SCT putting me also in the TQ spot for the night. Once the A-Mains started it a was a Green to Checker flag run clinching the top spots in both classes.

The Hobbywing equipment performed flawless! Motor temps in my SC10 4x4 FTwere down to under 150 Degrees and the SCT Pro ESC never missed a beat. The V3.1 Provided super smooth power in the B4.2 FT from start to finish!

Phersson Bachman (13)
Phersson Bachman was running 1/8 E-Buggy last night for only the second time and put on a great show for the main. Pherrson managed to qualify 3rd overall and then work his way up to fighting for the lead half way through the A-Main. Phersson manged to hold onto a 3rd Place Finish overall! Great Job Phersson!!! Phersson's RC8.2E was equipped with SCT Pro ESC and Hobbywing 4000KV SCT Motor running a 2S lipo setup!

Joseph Bachman (10)
Joseph Bachman was running in the Kids Class last night and managed to pull down a TQ spot and put a Green to Checker finish together holding onto the A-Main Win! Joe's A-Main run would have placed him second or third overall in the Sprotsmens/Rookie 4x4 SCT class... It is time for Joe to move up! Congrats on another great finish. Joe's SC10 4x4 was equiped with a Hobbywing V2.1 ESC and Hobbywing 4000KV Motorl!

Hobbywing Setup Sheets:
Attachment 1161400
Attachment 1161401
Attachment 1161402

Hobbywing Equipment Links:
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...t-pro-esc-blue
http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xrm3656sd
http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xrm-4068sd-bl
http://www.falconsekido.com/products...or-red-edition
http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xerun-v10-motor

Thank you Hobbywing North America!
Great write up and info!
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Old 02-01-2014, 12:46 PM
  #5841  
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Default Give it another try...

Originally Posted by protc3
What temp is your motor coming off on the 1/8 4S setup. I tried like hell with gearing and speedo setup to keep temps down on the 2250 but it just ran hot. I now run the 1800 and I geared it up to be smooth and fast. Temps on the 1800 rarely exceed 145 degrees. If you have the 2250 running cool, I will give it another shot.
They Hobbywing 2250 is a ton of motor for 1/8 buggy. My motor temps come off between 155 - 170. I try to keep that motor below 180 at all times.

On my RC8.2 FT I was running a 15 - 17 Tooth pinion and in some cases ran the endpoints on my radio between 85 - 90% It was rare that I needed the full 100% power of the 2250 on a track, except for a really large open flowing track with very high speeds.

The RC8.2 has a 4.30:1 Gear reduction and I was running a 15 to 17 tooth pinion on a 46 tooth spur. This would be a final drive ratio ranging from 13.87 to 11.64. If you are on a smaller to medium size track try closer to the 13.87.

You will always battle temps with that high of a KV motor in buggy because of wheel spin. This is why the 1800 is working well for you now most likely. Try running a much lower punch rate (DDRS) as low as 2 or 4 as you are getting it dialed in to help with initial wheel spin on bottom.

Good Luck!

Alan
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by FastPete
Not sure what your application is, but when racing I leave it low, so theres no chance of hitting it. When you recharge and see how much the pack takes, you will have a general idea of how long you can run.

Problem is higher draw motors, can hit it during high load and ruin your qualifier. Know what I mean. I keep close tabs on mine and just turn it all the way down.

Now if your just bashing in the streets, might me a good idea to have it higher as loosing track of time is easy, you just want to keep pulling the trigger.
Hey thanks,

So not racing yet but run an 8.5 in a B4.1 worlds, I think default is like 3.0, I ran today and loved the feel of the ESC especially when compared to the Novak GTB2 it replaced, just seemed like it had more throttle range that was usable, whereas the Novak was either all or nothing.

Plus the HW was super cool after running, the novak would get pretty warm as they sent me the LP HS model with a 7.5, I questioned them on it and said I was fine to run that way but the HW setup didn't even get warm.
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:28 PM
  #5843  
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Originally Posted by bozack
Hey thanks,

So not racing yet but run an 8.5 in a B4.1 worlds, I think default is like 3.0, I ran today and loved the feel of the ESC especially when compared to the Novak GTB2 it replaced, just seemed like it had more throttle range that was usable, whereas the Novak was either all or nothing.

Plus the HW was super cool after running, the novak would get pretty warm as they sent me the LP HS model with a 7.5, I questioned them on it and said I was fine to run that way but the HW setup didn't even get warm.
Glad your enjoying your Hobbywing product!
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:48 PM
  #5844  
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Was wondering if you could help me diagnose a problem with my HW 60amp esc.

Running the non sensored 60amp in a brand new losi 22-4. The motor I am using is a G-force 4300kv 540 size.

Gearing was either 22 pinion or 25 and had the same problem both ways.
After running about 3 to 3.5 minutes into a run on our small local indoor track, the car shuts down. Motor never got to more than 125 degrees. ESC was cool to the touch and the fan was running. I let it sit for a minute and it started running again.

I can only think the ESC is going into thermal shut down, but this exact combo was in my old xxx-4 4wd buggy and never had a heat issue. The old xxx-4 has a ton more venting and the new 22-4 is sealed extremely well. I tried running with out the body and the car was fine for over 10 minutes. Again, motor never got hot.

Last night at the race, it did it again twice during heat races. For the second race, I vented the body above the ESC and got a little more run time, but it still shut off. Steering worked fine and after a 2 min rest, the car ran fine again.

For the main, I took a chance and shut off the thermal protection using my programming box. I also tried playing with timing and DDRS, nothing made a diff during the heat races.
Car ran thru over 4 mins in the main and was fine until I crashed out breaking a front a arm.
Talking to others there, seems like the motor doesn't have enough KV to run the buggy due to the difference in weight. I was able to run a LOT smaller pinion gear on the xxx-4 due to the spur gear on that one.

4300kv is around 8.5 turn? No one could translate, all the 'racers' use only sensored motors rated in turn. The Losi 22-4 seems to want more like 6.5 to 5.5 turn motors and the KV would be over 5500 in a non sensor config, correct?

Is there a firmware update that will help? Is there even a way to upgrade this ESC? It is supposedly 'USB upgradable' But, I'm not sure how to use the program box to do so.

Thanks for the help in advance..
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Old 02-01-2014, 02:16 PM
  #5845  
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Default Could be several issues...

Originally Posted by frankenstang
Was wondering if you could help me diagnose a problem with my HW 60amp esc.

Running the non sensored 60amp in a brand new losi 22-4. The motor I am using is a G-force 4300kv 540 size.

Gearing was either 22 pinion or 25 and had the same problem both ways.
After running about 3 to 3.5 minutes into a run on our small local indoor track, the car shuts down. Motor never got to more than 125 degrees. ESC was cool to the touch and the fan was running. I let it sit for a minute and it started running again.

I can only think the ESC is going into thermal shut down, but this exact combo was in my old xxx-4 4wd buggy and never had a heat issue. The old xxx-4 has a ton more venting and the new 22-4 is sealed extremely well. I tried running with out the body and the car was fine for over 10 minutes. Again, motor never got hot.

Last night at the race, it did it again twice during heat races. For the second race, I vented the body above the ESC and got a little more run time, but it still shut off. Steering worked fine and after a 2 min rest, the car ran fine again.

For the main, I took a chance and shut off the thermal protection using my programming box. I also tried playing with timing and DDRS, nothing made a diff during the heat races.
Car ran thru over 4 mins in the main and was fine until I crashed out breaking a front a arm.
Talking to others there, seems like the motor doesn't have enough KV to run the buggy due to the difference in weight. I was able to run a LOT smaller pinion gear on the xxx-4 due to the spur gear on that one.

4300kv is around 8.5 turn? No one could translate, all the 'racers' use only sensored motors rated in turn. The Losi 22-4 seems to want more like 6.5 to 5.5 turn motors and the KV would be over 5500 in a non sensor config, correct?

Is there a firmware update that will help? Is there even a way to upgrade this ESC? It is supposedly 'USB upgradable' But, I'm not sure how to use the program box to do so.

Thanks for the help in advance..
I think you have several things that could be causing the thermal issue...

1. You are running a bran new chassis, I am sure the belts are not broke in yet and the drive train is not super free yet. A three belt car is going to have a lot of drag. Plus you are running it in well sealed body, the esc needs to get some cool air.

2. Are you running the fan on the esc and is it operating correctly?

3. A 4wd Buggy is a heavy load application on motors and esc. You are pushing the 60 Amp to the limits of it's design specifications:

1.6 Suitable Motor: * Note #1
With 4-6 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2S Lipo: On-Road≥5.5T, Off-Road≥8.5T;
With 6-9 cells NiMH/NiCd or 3S Lipo: On-Road≥8.5T, Off-Road≥13T;

4. Is the motor a 2 pole or 4 pole design?

5. Going to a hotter (Higher KV) motor is going to increase the load on the esc and cause it to thermal quicker.

I think you best best is to upgrade to a higher amp esc when you budget allows. You will also get a lot more drive ability out of a sensored setup as well that makes driving a 4wd buggy a lot easier.

I know this doesn't really solve your problem, but I think the real problem is you are pushing the esc past it's design specifications.

Alan
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:09 PM
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Had another good race day today held 2nd in all 3 qualifier and 2nd in the a main.
Had to put my punch rate down to 6 the track was very slick today HW esc is working great.
Still waiting on jfuel write up so I can understand this stuff better.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:11 PM
  #5847  
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The 30%drag brake setting looks lts working for me I am still slow on the trigger lol
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 5th wheel
Had another good race day today held 2nd in all 3 qualifier and 2nd in the a main.
Had to put my punch rate down to 6 the track was very slick today HW esc is working great.
Still waiting on jfuel write up so I can understand this stuff better.
And you told me you were a novice racer. Great job!
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:31 PM
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I am was running novice open wheel buggy 17.5.
When do you know it's time to rebuild your diff .I been noticing that my buggy slide left when I pull hard on the trigger when the car not going that fast it's been awhile since I did a rebuild?
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 5th wheel
I am was running novice open wheel buggy 17.5.
When do you know it's time to rebuild your diff .I been noticing that my buggy slide left when I pull hard on the trigger when the car not going that fast it's been awhile since I did a rebuild?
Personally I rebuild ball diffs between race days. Just something I've always done. Probably not necessary to do that often but works for me.

It maybe worth posting your question in the right thread to get a better answer. Search for your brand/model of car and post in there!!
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