HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD
#5326
Any issues with the sctpro bec powering savox servos? I have a savox 1258 in a losi scte. Also, how do the 3656Sd 4000kv motors compare to other 4pole motors out there? Thanks
#5327
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Last edited by rcuser67898578; 12-09-2023 at 08:33 PM.
#5328
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Last edited by rcuser67898578; 12-09-2023 at 08:33 PM.
#5329
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Sorry Man...
Let us know if we can help any more!
#5330
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Thanks for the backup support!
This is correct. You need the new 3-in-1 box and either a V3 or V3.1 esc to switch between blinky and boosted profiles without flashing the esc.
The new 3-in-1 box will work on the older 2.X esc's however to get into blinky with a 2.X esc you still need to flash it. Its a limitation of the 2.X esc's not the programing box unfortunately.
The new 3-in-1 box will work on the older 2.X esc's however to get into blinky with a 2.X esc you still need to flash it. Its a limitation of the 2.X esc's not the programing box unfortunately.
#5331
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Newer Programmer
All I have is the speed passion Lcd box which does not plug into a computer and does not work right with the latest SP software(cant get a LED programmer anymore ) I also have a mmp and a LRP I was thinking about getting the Hobbywing ESC to replace the LRP and was hoping I could use the same programmer on the SP stuff, need to find something.
Good Luck!
#5332
Tech Elite
iTrader: (152)
Yes.. No Issues!
The 3656 Motors are super smooth and run very cool. The power is comparable to anything else on the market when comparing KV to KV. I personally like the 4000KV but I run an SC10 4sx4 FT. If you are running something heavier like the losi SCT 2.0 4x4 you may consider the 4700KV unless you are running small to medium indoors.
Either way you will be very happy with the cost and performance of the HW 4-Pole Motors!
Happy Racing!
#5334
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Last edited by rcuser67898578; 12-09-2023 at 08:34 PM.
#5335
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Last edited by rcuser67898578; 12-09-2023 at 08:31 PM.
#5336
running into the low voltage cutoff way early with my HB ezrun 60a-sl esc and tacon motor combo. factory setting is 3.0v/cell and i up it to 3.4v/cell just in case.
pack is a 2cell SMC 70c 6500mah. it's fresh.
your help is appreciated.
pack is a 2cell SMC 70c 6500mah. it's fresh.
your help is appreciated.
#5337
I just purchased and installed a Justock Club SPEC ESC and today experienced problems.
First a little background:
Car -- KSK SparK SK Spec
Motor -- Thunderpower 17.5 Brushless
Battery -- 6800 mah 1S LiPo
Receiver pack -- 250 mah LiFe
Radio Gear: Hitec 2.4Ghz Atom 3 Receiver/Hitec Aggressor SRX Pro radio
Since I use a receiver pack, I leave the ESC switch off and only use the receiver pack switch to turn the car on/off.
The ESC would run the car fine for about 3 1/2 minutes, then it would act like either the sensor wire came undone, the low voltage protection kicked in, or the over-heat protection kicked in.
I first tried turning off the over-heat protection, still the same as above.
Next I tried turning off the low voltage protection, still the same result.
Tried a new sensor wire and still the same result.
Each time, when I remove the body and look at the ESC, the green light is flashing. Once I let the car sit for a minute or two and/or turn the switch off and back on, car will work fine for another 3 1/2 minutes or so, then the same result.
I normally use one battery for an entire race day and charge the LiFe pack and the main battery between rounds. I tried a different battery and still got the same results.
Any help on this subject would be appreciated.
First a little background:
Car -- KSK SparK SK Spec
Motor -- Thunderpower 17.5 Brushless
Battery -- 6800 mah 1S LiPo
Receiver pack -- 250 mah LiFe
Radio Gear: Hitec 2.4Ghz Atom 3 Receiver/Hitec Aggressor SRX Pro radio
Since I use a receiver pack, I leave the ESC switch off and only use the receiver pack switch to turn the car on/off.
The ESC would run the car fine for about 3 1/2 minutes, then it would act like either the sensor wire came undone, the low voltage protection kicked in, or the over-heat protection kicked in.
I first tried turning off the over-heat protection, still the same as above.
Next I tried turning off the low voltage protection, still the same result.
Tried a new sensor wire and still the same result.
Each time, when I remove the body and look at the ESC, the green light is flashing. Once I let the car sit for a minute or two and/or turn the switch off and back on, car will work fine for another 3 1/2 minutes or so, then the same result.
I normally use one battery for an entire race day and charge the LiFe pack and the main battery between rounds. I tried a different battery and still got the same results.
Any help on this subject would be appreciated.
#5338
Here are the settings I have programmed in the ESC:
Running Mode -- Forward with Brake
Drag Brake Force -- 0%
Low Voltage Cut-Off -- No Protection
Start Mode (Punch) -- Level 8
Max Brake Force -- 100%
Max Reverse -- 25%
Initial Brake Force -- 0%
Neutral Range -- 9% (Normal)
Timing -- Cannot be changed in the Justock
Overheat -- Disable
I'm also running 76/46 gear ratio (64 pitch).
Running Mode -- Forward with Brake
Drag Brake Force -- 0%
Low Voltage Cut-Off -- No Protection
Start Mode (Punch) -- Level 8
Max Brake Force -- 100%
Max Reverse -- 25%
Initial Brake Force -- 0%
Neutral Range -- 9% (Normal)
Timing -- Cannot be changed in the Justock
Overheat -- Disable
I'm also running 76/46 gear ratio (64 pitch).
#5340
Tech Champion
iTrader: (44)
I just purchased and installed a Justock Club SPEC ESC and today experienced problems.
First a little background:
Car -- KSK SparK SK Spec
Motor -- Thunderpower 17.5 Brushless
Battery -- 6800 mah 1S LiPo
Receiver pack -- 250 mah LiFe
Radio Gear: Hitec 2.4Ghz Atom 3 Receiver/Hitec Aggressor SRX Pro radio
Since I use a receiver pack, I leave the ESC switch off and only use the receiver pack switch to turn the car on/off.
The ESC would run the car fine for about 3 1/2 minutes, then it would act like either the sensor wire came undone, the low voltage protection kicked in, or the over-heat protection kicked in.
I first tried turning off the over-heat protection, still the same as above.
Next I tried turning off the low voltage protection, still the same result.
Tried a new sensor wire and still the same result.
Each time, when I remove the body and look at the ESC, the green light is flashing. Once I let the car sit for a minute or two and/or turn the switch off and back on, car will work fine for another 3 1/2 minutes or so, then the same result.
I normally use one battery for an entire race day and charge the LiFe pack and the main battery between rounds. I tried a different battery and still got the same results.
Any help on this subject would be appreciated.
First a little background:
Car -- KSK SparK SK Spec
Motor -- Thunderpower 17.5 Brushless
Battery -- 6800 mah 1S LiPo
Receiver pack -- 250 mah LiFe
Radio Gear: Hitec 2.4Ghz Atom 3 Receiver/Hitec Aggressor SRX Pro radio
Since I use a receiver pack, I leave the ESC switch off and only use the receiver pack switch to turn the car on/off.
The ESC would run the car fine for about 3 1/2 minutes, then it would act like either the sensor wire came undone, the low voltage protection kicked in, or the over-heat protection kicked in.
I first tried turning off the over-heat protection, still the same as above.
Next I tried turning off the low voltage protection, still the same result.
Tried a new sensor wire and still the same result.
Each time, when I remove the body and look at the ESC, the green light is flashing. Once I let the car sit for a minute or two and/or turn the switch off and back on, car will work fine for another 3 1/2 minutes or so, then the same result.
I normally use one battery for an entire race day and charge the LiFe pack and the main battery between rounds. I tried a different battery and still got the same results.
Any help on this subject would be appreciated.