Originally Posted by Resqnu (Post 13075128)

Anyone having issues running a SP Reventon Pro with a Savox 1256tg in a SC10.2? I have a new Savox 1256tg I was going to run, but wanted to make sure of no issues first.

Originally Posted by the incubus (Post 13030709)

Now we're getting to the nitty gritty. It seems you're a relative novice to soldering so I'll go through the trouble of explaining what to and how to do things correctly and explain why.

First of all the #1 rule with soldering these high end electronics is that you must pre-tin your leads. I cannot stress it enough how important this step is.

How do you tin properly?

First of all you need either a Soldering station or you need to come up with a clever means by which to hold things steady. I prefer the freedom of using an insulated alligator clip to hold my wire and with my dextrous hand feed the solder when everything is in position and I'm ready.

I leave my soldering iron on the table with the tip elevated on the stand and then place my already stripped lead which you want to keep as minimal as possible. you don't need a .25" portion of lead to solder anything for RC. (just another point where people get it wrong) How much insulation needs to be remove is dependent on the component(s) and how much far the wire needs to go to facilitate ample area to make a proper contact. This is something you can pick up relatively quickly.

Now that you've considered this, it's time to move onto tinning. The way to do it properly is to make sure the tip of the iron is properly hot and shiny so if it isn't, stop and prep your tip to do away with the frustrations of a contaminated tip. With your tip now clean, you want to clamp your alligator clip onto the wire, close to the exposed strands and touch it to the upper side of the iron and then feed solder onto the top of the wire. When it is hot enough it will begin to soak up the solder rapidly so be conscious and place JUST ENOUGH to coat the exposed portion SPARINGLY. Once you've done this, turn the wire over (reposition the alligator clip accordingly) and you will notice the underside is still not fully tinned. And while you may have been able to get it fully tinned by simply feeding more solder until it soaked through, THAT IS INCORRECT!!! While you will get it fully tinned, most of the solder you fed to do so has now seeped up into the insulation and a large portion of the wire has solidified, thus taking away it's ever precious flexibility. ;)

So, you tin one side, flip it over and repeat until the exposed portion is fully covered and nothing more. If you find your iron is not heating up enough to do this quickly, by all means USE FLUX!!! How much flux is also a huge mistake people make. Again, there is no need for excess. You want to be minimalistic with everything in this process. What I do as a general rule, of course depending on the application, is to dip my solder into the flux so when I pull it out it has a thin coating of it that will aide in transferring heat much more quickly and with greater efficiency than by using the iron and plain solder alone.

NOTE: You DO NOT feed solder onto your iron's tip. While it may work, it is not ideal.

Once you have all your leads tinned, you can now move onto assessing what goes where and what can and/or should require pre-tinning. For motors I generally dip my solder into the flux and tin the contact points SPARINGLY. When I'm ready to solder my already pre-tinned leads, I simply dip the very tip of them and then move them into position holding them with my alligator clips and then apply heat with my CLEAN tip until it all melts, and allow to cool. The result should be a perfectly bright and shiny solder joint. Step and repeat as needed.


As for soldering up an ESC with the holes like the Reventon R, you will Pre-Tin and then crimp/smash using whatever tool (I prefer wire crimpers) so that they slide into the holes freely and then secure everything so you are sure nothing will move out of position, and then place a touch of flux paste ONTO THE WIRE and then apply heat and introduce a bit of solder ONTO THE WIRE. Remove the iron and allow to cool. Again, the result should be a perfectly bright and shiny solder joint.


That's it!


But remember, practice makes perfect. I know, I need to make a video already. LOL

Originally Posted by cezzy2004 (Post 13075723)

hey question guys on esc


which is probably better for a 1/12 scale car


speed passion reventon pro 1.1ex 1s-2s

or

hobbywing 3.1 1s

???? any answer would be great one is 120 other is 186 price wise..

Originally Posted by prosport (Post 13087556)

That sure doesn't seem right, how would you make a quick change at the track if you can't use your programming box?
My cheap FUSE esc with programming card was very easy to make quick adjustments.

Originally Posted by SeeGee911 (Post 13075672)

This is great info for those who have little Soldering experience. You should post this on its own.

Originally Posted by Riverbluff (Post 13087635)

You can make quick adjustments to the loaded profile with the programming box, but to change profiles, say from Stock 0 to Stock 1, or Stock to Mod, you need to connect it to the computer to load the new profile. At least that's how mine is.

Other then that the ESC has been great.