Does anybody know of a way to solder directly to the motor with the V3? I don't like the bullets, and don't feel like they grip tight enough for high currents and the rough and tumble driving I do in my SCT. Is there a way to solder the bullets onto the motor?

In theory, I wonder if you could run some solder inside the bullet, let it dry, then place the bullet on the male end and heat it up so it slides down and flows solder onto it, then let it dry?

I haven't tried this though so keep that in mind, but that makes me wonder if it would work.

Makes sense. I will likely try that first. If that doesn't work, I am going to drill a hole in the end of the female bullet, so that solder can flow through it and make the connection.

I will report back.

The bullets sit pretty tight, you'd need to break stuff before they ever come loose. As for the current you may have a point, but V3s are not the most power hungry motors to start with. IMHO there is little or no need to solder the wiring directly.

the last batch of motors I got in the bullets felt different, maybe slightly thicker? I had one from a V3.0 8.5 that had a bullet that felt thin and caused arcing, could see the bullet actually got damaged from this so I replaced it with another.

I bought my motor second hand, and 2 of the 3 female connectors are oval. The previous owner likely bent them to try to get a better connection.

I am newer to racing, but I know one thing....if there is a chance it could come loose, it likely will at some point. I have enough things to check on my truck between heats. I would rather not add to that list. :p

I only have one SP motor, so having those connections modular saves me no time at all. I have to solder if I want to switch motors, PERIOD.

Anyone

Check your sensor wire.

I did that long time ago just to test it....basicly, you want to create a FLAT SPOT on those male plug, so, dremel out some of the material off those plug and create a flat spot and solder the wire directly there. However, that limited your choice of the wire as soldering 12ga wire on them are HARD....remember, you still have to put the end plate back on and those holes are not any bigger then then plug itself.

I think I am going to attempt to drill out the end of the female connector. Basically turn the connector into a tube. Then the tabs on the ends of the connector will still be there to hold the wire.

I will take pics and post back. :nod:

I've got 7 (new and used) of them and all are pretty tight fitting, but of course your mileage may vary no arguing about that.

Probably easiest to take off the end bell first and look at the best way to solder from that point.

So just to report back, I had great luck drilling holes in the connector. I drilled about a 1/8" hole in the end of the connector. I put the connector back on, then got my iron very hot and fed solder into the hole. After that cooled, I soldered the wire back on the end of the connector. These aren't going ANYWHERE anymore!

Mind take a picture and share with us....? I do have couple motors, the B tab are loose and might be interested to do the solid wiring....thanks

Well, I have them all soldered up. So instead of pics, I have created this awesome instructional series!

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psd84fab8e.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psaca71127.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps251c5578.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psdd79390b.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...pscbdf30eb.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psf5cd6987.jpg

Pretty easy. You drill a hole in the connector so that solder can flow through it and make the connection with the male post. Then you still have a solder point for the wire, as you did before the mod. Feel free to ask questions. :lol: :tire::tire::tire::tire:

it will work. Ive done it before.