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Originally Posted by dam
(Post 11521893)
Silver Arrow V2 Question:
I put in a recently serviced motor and was having problems with it. I thought I would recalibrate the radio but I can't seem to get it in the right mode. I hold the set button, turn on the esc and release the set button. The esc flashes red, and the motor kind of twitches, it never gets into the calibration mode. I ended up putting my good motor back in and the esc works fine and is smooth as ever, so I assume it is still calibrated fine. I can make all adjustments with the card and computer, but it puzzles me that I can't recalibrate it to the radio. Also, do I need to download the Drivers Software Patch from their website dated 7/21/10? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by Snafujg
(Post 11522779)
I just calibrated mine to my radio. Held set, turned on. Release the set button as soon as you see the red lights. If you don't release it soon enough, it goes into programming mode. Leave the throttle in Neutral, hit set, you get 1 beep. Hold full forward, hit set, get 2 beeps. Hold full reverse, hit set, get 3 beeps. That's it. I had to try 3 times before I got it. I held Set for too long the first 2 times.
Have you tried to recalibrate again? Also wondering if the batteries in my radio are a little low? Radio isn't beeping at me yet but may be low enough to effect something??? |
Solara: Any news on a new 1/8 ESC? are we looking to have something for this spring / summer season or later? Same question on a true 1/8 motor?
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any help would be awesome !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4_5HfUvmjo&feature=plcp |
Originally Posted by schumacheracing
(Post 11523914)
any help would be awesome !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4_5HfUvmjo&feature=plcp Is that the ESC fan I hear? I can't really tell on my smartphone. If the answer is "YES" then it needs to be unplugged when doing any programming. Also I noticed when you say you're going to calibrate you start by going full throttle and pressing the button. The proper step is to set neutral first by pressing the button while the radio is in neutral. Then you move on to full throttle and brakes. Also what servo are you using? I know in the past people have posted and I have seen strange issues with Spektrum RX and servo combinations. I believe using a RX capacitor solved those. Spektrum makes their own RX capacitor exactly for this reason. |
Originally Posted by Nexus
(Post 11524473)
First thing...
Is that the ESC fan I hear? I can't really tell on my smartphone. If the answer is "YES" then it needs to be unplugged when doing any programming. Also I noticed when you say you're going to calibrate you start by going full throttle and pressing the button. The proper step is to set neutral first by pressing the button while the radio is in neutral. Then you move on to full throttle and brakes. Also what servo are you using? I know in the past people have posted and I have seen strange issues with Spektrum RX and servo combinations. I believe using a RX capacitor solved those. Spektrum makes their own RX capacitor exactly for this reason. |
ok new video with the fan unplugged and trying to calibrate again with a cap on the reciever so there is no brown out issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WemMZ...ature=youtu.be |
hopefully someone has the answer to this question.
i was told that the cool sound from the orion speed controllers on braking,is from the multiple caps on them. if this is true,i see the carbon pro has the multiple cap pack on it. does the carbon pro make this sound? and does the extra caps,provide for better braking? |
Originally Posted by schumacheracing
(Post 11524714)
ok new video with the fan unplugged and trying to calibrate again with a cap on the reciever so there is no brown out issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WemMZ...ature=youtu.be Does the battery have a decent charge? I want to eliminate low voltage protection. |
Originally Posted by schumacheracing
(Post 11524714)
ok new video with the fan unplugged and trying to calibrate again with a cap on the reciever so there is no brown out issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WemMZ...ature=youtu.be
Originally Posted by subaru_tech
(Post 11524808)
hopefully someone has the answer to this question.
i was told that the cool sound from the orion speed controllers on braking,is from the multiple caps on them. if this is true,i see the carbon pro has the multiple cap pack on it. does the carbon pro make this sound? and does the extra caps,provide for better braking? From looking at many of our team driver setups, many use the included capacitor on their Reventons. Adding the option 4 row capacitor is exactly that, an option. High ambient temperatures, low turn modified motors, and other variables come into play. |
Originally Posted by subaru_tech
(Post 11524808)
hopefully someone has the answer to this question.
i was told that the cool sound from the orion speed controllers on braking,is from the multiple caps on them. if this is true,i see the carbon pro has the multiple cap pack on it. does the carbon pro make this sound? and does the extra caps,provide for better braking? |
Originally Posted by SP Tech
(Post 11524920)
When you are in "calibrating mode" there should be a blinking amber light next to the red one as you move through each step. In your video I cannot see that. Is the button on the ESC switch being depressed fully?
I am not familiar with Speed Passion ESC/capacitors making any "sound". The capacitors allow ESCs to run a little cooler and also filter out voltage spikes. A cooler ESC will have better functioning brakes. From looking at many of our team driver setups, many use the included capacitor on their Reventons. Adding the option 4 row capacitor is exactly that, an option. High ambient temperatures, low turn modified motors, and other variables come into play. |
Originally Posted by 1mrdad
(Post 11502270)
I have a GT PRO 2.0 that I am using in 2wd buggy with a 10.5 motor. For no apparent reason, ( I haven't found a pattern yet), I lose reverse and sometimes brakes as well as reverse. :( The only way I get it back, is to hook up the programming box to a pc/laptop and the esc, and reload the 428 stock software. Any ideas as to why this happens? :confused: This seems to be happening more frequently (every other week.) as time goes on. Thanks
Originally Posted by dvsstrike
(Post 11502788)
what is your neutral point? the last time that happend to me i took reversrve out and adjusted nuetral point as well. what transmitter set up are you using as well?
Originally Posted by 1mrdad
(Post 11507331)
I am using a Savox servo, but up until recently, I hadn't been experiencing any problems. I've had the esc since early April. Too make things more weird, while I was at practice today, reverse came back in the middle of a run (after not working the last two practice sessions), but now sometimes after reversing, the car hesitates for a while before being able to go forward. Actually, the narrow neutral point makes a lot of sense to me. I will try the wider neutral point. If that doesn't work, I have Futaba servo that I will try.
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Is there a way to change from Stock "blink" to Mod2 without the programmer of having to connect it to my laptop?
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Originally Posted by 3Captain
(Post 11526750)
Is there a way to change from Stock "blink" to Mod2 without the programmer of having to connect it to my laptop?
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