Sounds like you've got your answer. I use 6.5mm w/my Tekin RX8 setup, just because they're easier to solder and I suck at soldering. :lol:

Im sending my Viper 3900kv system in for replacement on monday.
I have the box, store reciept and eveything in the shipping box.
I already confirmed that I was shipping it on the website and included
all the web info in the box.
It's still under warrenty. Im shipping it in a small ofna car stand box because
I couldnt find another box that it would fit in.
It's bubble wrapped nice and tight.

The motor locked up and it was draining the batteries. In 5 runs it locked up. What would have been next is magic smoke, but I didnt get that far because the esc still works. Motor and esc will be shipped together.

Thanks and I hope you can get back with me on this.
Im just wondering how long it takes to go through this process.
Thanks, Brian Maglinger

Guys, I've powered up my VTX8, not sure if there's an issue.

I haven't done the bullets, just straight wires. My soldering friend said to look into a crimped connection, if there is one that will work, otherwise he'll solder in the bullets.

Anyhow, I tested it the first time and it turned on ok and turned off. This was before the ESC wore was plugged in, I did that when I got home and did my initial tests on the car.

Now it doesn't like to turn off, I tried two or three times and ended up disconnecting the batteries. I know it's not normal behaviour, but has it been reported before and is there something I can do?

the esc wont rurn off if thinks neutral is not achieved. I just unplug it. Solder > crimping. I would solder the bullets on. dint power it up and play with it until you get the motor properly connected. I have seen esc's go boom from doing that

Yeah, I'm going to do the soldering of bullets now, crimping is out. It was a suggestion of my friend who did the work.

The sensor wire was also not connected that first time, but not with everything connected it turns on, runs, but doesn't seem to want to turn off, though it did the first time.

I'll play with it some more later.

like a few people have said, turning off can be a pain. That is the main issue i have with the esc, but I can just unplug, so it does not matter. At least the switch does not go bad like many others on the market.

Ok i got a strange one ....so i have a Vtx10 BE in a sct .....thing is worked killer all season powered me to 8 wins and 8 tq's and a season championship .... well i ran 3 weeks ago work great ...this morning i shoved a battery in it and turned it on and it have lost its calibration i went to go forward and it didnt go .... i hit reverse and it goes forward .... weird so I re-calibrate it and it works like it always does ..... so fast forward to the main and It did it again .... so i re-calibrate it again race the main .... come home and toss a battery in it and works like a charm .....

i use a futaba 4pks radio ....

now do understand i have the same setup in a 2wd buggy and it work perfect all day ...


i have used viper for the last 2 indoor seasons ..and never had an issue like this ....

any ideas ????

Ok, so the turning off thing is fairly common? The unit clearly works so I was wondering what was up.

I just used the Pro Gauge for the first time.

For the battery cut off, I'm used to inputting 3.2v, 3.3v. The default was 12.8, which I'm guessing comes from the batteries starting point of 14.4. How does 12.8v correspond with a setting of, say, 3.2v?

Also, it powered down ok with the button after saving the Pro Gauge settings. Hopefully it will keep doing that.

I forgot to get the PC Link cable, I thought I got everything with the Pro Gauge to do it at the track and at the PC. I'm guessing the same cable works for all the Viper ESC's that support PC Link?

[QUOTE=mxer373;11965236]Ok i got a strange one ....so i have a Vtx10 BE in a sct .....thing is worked killer all season powered me to 8 wins and 8 tq's and a season championship .... well i ran 3 weeks ago work great ...this morning i shoved a battery in it and turned it on and it have lost its calibration i went to go forward and it didnt go .... i hit reverse and it goes forward .... weird so I re-calibrate it and it works like it always does ..... so fast forward to the main and It did it again .... so i re-calibrate it again race the main .... come home and toss a battery in it and works like a charm .....

i use a futaba 4pks radio ....

now do understand i have the same setup in a 2wd buggy and it work perfect all day ...

If you have one of the older versions they had an issue with the capacitor board attached at the top coming loose and that would cause the issue you ask about. Check that first , mine came loose on both I have and I just resoldered it and no more issues.

[QUOTE=shadowracer24;11965649]I have Black edition ..... its 4 months old .... i check it this morning again works like it should ...... its just strange ......

Hi guys,

Do the black editions all have the latest software on as std? Just picked up a new vtx10 BE and want to make sure it'll work with my progauge!

they should all have A55,
I know it the ESC's have the silver caps, then they are A19 (BOOOO!!!!).t
I don't know if there is a sign for A33 software, maybe a later run with the silver caps?
But I recall that the red editions with the larger Black Caps are A55, along with the Black Editions with remote caps signifying A55.
those both should have the updated BEC circuit.

[QUOTE=mxer373;11966049]what Rx? when you are powering down, do simply unplug the battery? that could be an issue

for cuttoff, multiply 3.2 by however many cells you are running.
make sure that when you change a setting, you go the root menu and save your changes.
literally all the PC link does is allow you to update to a new software. thats about it.
as far as i know, the cable that goes from the ProGuage to the 'vport' is the same across the line.