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So would the Pro6 Cap replace the cap included on say the VTX10R-BE? I was under the impression that came with a bigger Cap already.
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Originally Posted by Barge
(Post 12469893)
So would the Pro6 Cap replace the cap included on say the VTX10R-BE? I was under the impression that came with a bigger Cap already.
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Well you guys just convinced me to order a couple Pro6's to go along with the now, qty 2, vtx10r-BE's that i'll be using in buggy and SC.
Gonna try to high torque rotor in a 13.5T. |
Hey can someone help point me in the right direction. I bought a viper VTX10 and VST 9.5t motor to put on my AE TC6 touring car and I have no idea where to begin with programming via progauge this for touring car use. The only manual I find for the progauge has no real detail into the different options and why to use them.
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got my VTX8's in. no time to install but initially impressions are that in comparison to the various 1/8 ESCs I have had, and mind you no real issues with them, this ESC feels VERY BEEFY. Pretty impressed on feel alone.
On 1 thing off hand I would have liked to see changed is that any wires coming out of the ESC had a plug in option instead. If something goes dead there, I can just plug in a new wire setup (say the power button) and go versus having to send the ESC to have that replaced. Minor thing, which says a lot on first hand look of the ESC to have that as pretty much the only "complaint" if you call it that lol. Next question, will there be a motor that can handle the HPi Savage FLux 1/5 SCT? This motor would basically be compariable to castles 1515 motor. If this whole Sensor thing is the way to go, I could see going away from all my castle gear and going Viper in that vehicle. Would like a truggy sized motor in the 1800 - 2000Kv range if possible. |
Originally Posted by Graham11
(Post 12470146)
Hey can someone help point me in the right direction. I bought a viper VTX10 and VST 9.5t motor to put on my AE TC6 touring car and I have no idea where to begin with programming via progauge this for touring car use. The only manual I find for the progauge has no real detail into the different options and why to use them.
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Bob can you help me with some gearing ideas.
SC10.2 w/ 13.5T High Torque motor - Shorter tight indoor high grip clay track B4.2 w/ 13.5T - Same track I can run boost |
Originally Posted by Barge
(Post 12470585)
Bob can you help me with some gearing ideas.
SC10.2 w/ 13.5T High Torque motor - Shorter tight indoor high grip clay track B4.2 w/ 13.5T - Same track I can run boost try 22 / 81 for the buggy and 18 / 84 for the truck. |
Cain - don't know about the 1/5 size yet, guess we have to see where the market goes on that type of thing (worth the cost development vs. sales). Also we are waiting to see how sales go with VF8 motors we chose first before we do others. We have run both the 1900 and 2100 in truggy with success, motors have worked great.
Graham - the manual in the box will go through each of the settings in some detail. What's the best set up? The one that fits your driving style and track. There is no one magic set up that will make you .3 faster. Its a combination you find during testing and driving. I would start on profile 1 and start working with gearing first. That is most important, esc settings will help you find tune. |
how small of a track are you talking about? (50 x 50, etc).
Out here in general when running full mod, guys were using about 84 to 87 spur when boosting 13.5 - 17.5 motors in general. Not sure if the viper though does something different than others when boosting that could affect your gearing. nikos: just to clarify, the motor I am looking for would be the same size basically as truggy motors. That is what HPI ships the 1/5 savage is a truggy motor. Its light enough that it works great with those. I figure if I like the benefits of the VTX8, should be killer in the Savage. Heck if you wanted to test one out to show how tough they are, I would be more than happy to ablidge :) |
Cain - I got your PM - don't worry!! ;)
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Originally Posted by aussiek2000
(Post 12468094)
Tried 10% and 100%, neither one felt much different. I'll change PWM and check forward power. I can't change static timing. Bought the motor used and the screws are stripped.
Going to run it tomorrow and see how hot it gets. On the MMP, the motor was only running 130ish. So may bump gearing up a tooth. 9600pwm 100% punch 5* accel 7500-20000rpm 5* top speed Man this thing freaking rips. It just hooks and goes. only hit 160* running it hard in grass non-stop on a 5100 pack. |
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 12470574)
I just noticed that you are running less motor in your touring car than I am in my 2wd buggy (8.5T). Are you planning on staying with that motor? Are you going to run boost? What direction are you trying to go here?
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 12470664)
Cain - don't know about the 1/5 size yet, guess we have to see where the market goes on that type of thing (worth the cost development vs. sales). Also we are waiting to see how sales go with VF8 motors we chose first before we do others. We have run both the 1900 and 2100 in truggy with success, motors have worked great.
Graham - the manual in the box will go through each of the settings in some detail. What's the best set up? The one that fits your driving style and track. There is no one magic set up that will make you .3 faster. Its a combination you find during testing and driving. I would start on profile 1 and start working with gearing first. That is most important, esc settings will help you find tune. |
graham - here is the link to the manual you need:
http://www.viper-rc.com/pclink/updat...manual_A55.pdf Most touring car racing is done with lower turn modified, 13.5 or 17.5. I think that is the meaning of the other statements. But yes, if your just looking to power up and down the street and have some fun, and 9.5 will definitely have you moving. Also on the manual, it will show some base like settings as well if they changed them all around. One important one is Battery Low Voltage Cutoff - for 2s set it at 6.2 o 6.4. |
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