I'll defer to Nick on the differences. I know I have tried the 12.8 rotor as well as the stock 12.5 rotor. I just ordered a 12.3 rotor to try as well. So far I like the 12.5 over the 12.8 as it just fits my driving style more. I'm hoping I like the 12.3 even more, but time will tell :)

AndrewTom- you got it- one spec'd for more rpm of modified motors, and one spec'd for spec style motors. I honestly have never tried to swap one for the other in motors. Don't think the spec style would effect mod too much- little more punch, other way around, maybe slightly more rpm, but not so much that it's dramatic. Moving to 12.3 or 12.8 would be a bigger change.

I currently run a 13.5 Viper motor in my B4.1WC. It's bone stock. Can/should I run one of the other rotors in order to gain more speed/torque? Would ANY rotor fit in my 13.5t Viper?

TIA

Majority of the time the rotor that is stock in the can is going to do everything you want. If you run at a track that requires blinky only on the speed control you can try different rotors, but my opinion is that its just another option to try. There are so many combinations of gearing, set up, track conditions, track size, layout...... its not so easy to say yes buy a 12.3 rotor and will beat everyone.

Its a tuning option to try and see if it fits your particular puzzle.

Pulled the trigger on a VTX8 w/ ProGauge. Thank you Nikos2002 for answering my question promptly. I am gonna use this for my TLR 8T with 6S and Tekin 1550 motor.

My Viper Copperhead --Losi TEN-SCET setup...
 

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Now i need Another 5150 Copperhead system for my other TEN-SCET !!!

Guys how do you think a standard vtx 10B.E would handle a 10.5 in a b44.2? I would cut a few holes for airflow and i will be running in blinky.

the std rotor should work. I'm just trying all the options for 17.5.

I picked up a Copperhead-R for my SC10 4x4 to replace my MMP that died. I currently have a Pro4 4600kv installed in the truck.

Can the Copperhead-R run the Tekin Pro4 motor in sensorless mode?

Way before the MMP died I had a bad sensor wire and actually ran the combo without the sensor wire for a bunch of races before getting a new wire and even without the wire it was quite smooth. So the Pro4 can run sensorless without problem but maybe the MMP was the reason. I also still have my Castle 3800kv 1410 in my parts bin if I have to go to a sensorless motor.

Thanks,

Gigasipke- I am told that it can, I have not tried it, but I have spoken to others that have.

OMG - yes, you got, just help it out with a little extra air. I ran it with a 7.5 in my old TQ 4wd buggy and it was too fast for me :nod:, but with some air holes it was ok on temps. Just check it first time out (1st minute or two) to be sure.

MAXI - you have that Copperhead aerodynamically set at an angle in there.. :blush:;) Looks good!!

MAXI - you have that Copperhead aerodynamically set at an angle in there.. :blush:;) Looks good!![/QUOTE]

Its angled to straighten out the shaft angle to the diff!!!
:D

Thanks, I will run it this way and report back.

I had swapped my SC10 2wd esc from an MMP to the VTX10-BE a few months back and love it. It dropped my lap times down a 1/2 second on my very first race, even more once I got used to having power that was missing running the MMP. I eventually want to go all Viper. I just need to find someone to trade an RX8 for a VTX8 to swap into my MIP SCTE.

Hi guys, need some urgent help before I toast my motor.

Have been running it a mth or two, 7.5 in 4wd buggy. I have been getting temps no higher than 160ish on the motor. Practicing here at cactus I'm getting over 200 after 5 mins, I assume due to a mix of track design and outdoor temps (think its about 95!). I have spare power so am looking for help with which settings I can use to most decrease temps (using a vtx10r), I am currently pretty much on profile 2 mod off road. I have reduced motor timing on the motor from 30 to 15 degree but if anything its worse!

So which esc settings/motor timing gearing adjustments will help?

the PWM setting cam greatly increase the heat. try lowering the pwm on the throttle. when I got from 5000 to 9500, I gain like 20-30deg.

So my vtx10r thermalled once last night during the 2nd run.

Settings are:
ambient temp ~ 30 deg
XB4, Nosram pure2 7.5 (32.5 insert) @ 21/81. 3x7 min runs, 77, 81, 75 degs.
ESC @ about 80, 90, 80

Brakes PWM 2000Hz
Throttle PWM 6000Hz
Punch 60%

The ESC thermalled the 2nd run on the 2nd last lap. I was more aggressive on this run than the other two. I stuck a vent hole in front of the ESC, but it has to get past the servo before getting to the ESC.

Any ideas on lowering ESC temps?