Viper RC -
#6977
I'm probably not doing it right. on my copperhead esc i've tried loading the 2nd profile, which is for lipo's. i've lowered the punch and made a few changes, then tried to save it over the first profile. Once i've done that the esc beeps constantly and theres no motor movement. Whats going on here?
Last edited by Tobz173; 02-19-2013 at 06:30 PM.
#6978
Was impressed with my Viper equipment at Motorama:
VTX8 - It may have been a bad solder joint but my queries on Thunderpower motors may have been well placed...car stopped after 5 laps with the motor at over 250f!! So I would caution anyone trying this combo checked lap by lap 1st run! HOWEVER - then switched to a Reedy 2100kv and was very impressed all weekend. Temps nice and low (130 motor and 110 esc after 5 minute race/2 min warmup)......AND BEST OF ALL - no need for glitch buster or anything, no brown outs at all.
VTX10R - Am impressed with how responsive to programming changes this is, even quite small adjustments an be felt. Very smooth system too!
VTX8 - It may have been a bad solder joint but my queries on Thunderpower motors may have been well placed...car stopped after 5 laps with the motor at over 250f!! So I would caution anyone trying this combo checked lap by lap 1st run! HOWEVER - then switched to a Reedy 2100kv and was very impressed all weekend. Temps nice and low (130 motor and 110 esc after 5 minute race/2 min warmup)......AND BEST OF ALL - no need for glitch buster or anything, no brown outs at all.
VTX10R - Am impressed with how responsive to programming changes this is, even quite small adjustments an be felt. Very smooth system too!
#6980
In regards to 17.5 / Spec Motor racing, you have to understand that no two motor brands are really the same. Running the gearing / setup from brand X on brand Y and comparing the speed of the two isn't going to give you a fair assessment of what is faster.
The VST17.5 will need to be geared significantly higher than most other 17.5s in the market. It has the bottom end power to pull the gearing, but with gearing this steep you have to be smart on how you drive it. Yanking the trigger coming out of the corner is just going to get the motor hot and not make it any faster. One has to "roll on" the throttle as the car accelerates. When I run 17.5 in off-road, I tend to have lower punch numbers (30-40%) as that is really all the motor will take.
There are also many other factors that go into being successful in spec motor racing. Due to the low amount of power, one has to usually set the car up to be very "free" (aka Loose) for it to have a decent amount of corner speed. Also, running firmer inserts and harder compounds of tires to help the car not "scrub" so much speed.
Though Spec racing should be the "entry level" end of the sport, it ends up being more expensive and relies more on the guy with the most knowledge / money.
Last year at the Chi-Town Shootout at Leisure Hours, the top 3 or 4 guys in 17.5 buggy were running LRP X12 17.5 and were geared WAY high. I mean, like 43/69 on a B4 buggy. I knew the guys, so was able to ask them about their setups, and I asked "wow. How hot does it get?". The answer "In 6 minutes of practice, about 220-230 on the outside". I stated the obvious that it will only take 3 or 4 runs to destroy the magnet in the motor, they all pretty much said "well yea, so we change the rotors every 2 runs"
So take that into consideration, because that is what people are doing to be the fastest in these classes.
The VST17.5 will need to be geared significantly higher than most other 17.5s in the market. It has the bottom end power to pull the gearing, but with gearing this steep you have to be smart on how you drive it. Yanking the trigger coming out of the corner is just going to get the motor hot and not make it any faster. One has to "roll on" the throttle as the car accelerates. When I run 17.5 in off-road, I tend to have lower punch numbers (30-40%) as that is really all the motor will take.
There are also many other factors that go into being successful in spec motor racing. Due to the low amount of power, one has to usually set the car up to be very "free" (aka Loose) for it to have a decent amount of corner speed. Also, running firmer inserts and harder compounds of tires to help the car not "scrub" so much speed.
Though Spec racing should be the "entry level" end of the sport, it ends up being more expensive and relies more on the guy with the most knowledge / money.
Last year at the Chi-Town Shootout at Leisure Hours, the top 3 or 4 guys in 17.5 buggy were running LRP X12 17.5 and were geared WAY high. I mean, like 43/69 on a B4 buggy. I knew the guys, so was able to ask them about their setups, and I asked "wow. How hot does it get?". The answer "In 6 minutes of practice, about 220-230 on the outside". I stated the obvious that it will only take 3 or 4 runs to destroy the magnet in the motor, they all pretty much said "well yea, so we change the rotors every 2 runs"
So take that into consideration, because that is what people are doing to be the fastest in these classes.
#6981
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Last year at the Chi-Town Shootout at Leisure Hours, the top 3 or 4 guys in 17.5 buggy were running LRP X12 17.5 and were geared WAY high. I mean, like 43/69 on a B4 buggy. I knew the guys, so was able to ask them about their setups, and I asked "wow. How hot does it get?". The answer "In 6 minutes of practice, about 220-230 on the outside". I stated the obvious that it will only take 3 or 4 runs to destroy the magnet in the motor, they all pretty much said "well yea, so we change the rotors every 2 runs"
So take that into consideration, because that is what people are doing to be the fastest in these classes.
So take that into consideration, because that is what people are doing to be the fastest in these classes.
#6982
I'm probably not doing it right. on my copperhead esc i've tried loading the 2nd profile, which is for lipo's. i've lowered the punch and made a few changes, then tried to save it over the first profile. Once i've done that the esc beeps constantly and theres no motor movement. Whats going on here?
#6983
Was impressed with my Viper equipment at Motorama:
VTX8 - It may have been a bad solder joint but my queries on Thunderpower motors may have been well placed...car stopped after 5 laps with the motor at over 250f!! So I would caution anyone trying this combo checked lap by lap 1st run! HOWEVER - then switched to a Reedy 2100kv and was very impressed all weekend. Temps nice and low (130 motor and 110 esc after 5 minute race/2 min warmup)......AND BEST OF ALL - no need for glitch buster or anything, no brown outs at all.
VTX10R - Am impressed with how responsive to programming changes this is, even quite small adjustments an be felt. Very smooth system too!
VTX8 - It may have been a bad solder joint but my queries on Thunderpower motors may have been well placed...car stopped after 5 laps with the motor at over 250f!! So I would caution anyone trying this combo checked lap by lap 1st run! HOWEVER - then switched to a Reedy 2100kv and was very impressed all weekend. Temps nice and low (130 motor and 110 esc after 5 minute race/2 min warmup)......AND BEST OF ALL - no need for glitch buster or anything, no brown outs at all.
VTX10R - Am impressed with how responsive to programming changes this is, even quite small adjustments an be felt. Very smooth system too!
#6984
Chevmaro - the VTX10 and VTX10BE are very similar, just the wiring the BEC is slightly different. Biggest factor is really if you want the capacitor on top or mounted externally - they are for better lack of a term - identical. Just a different mounting option.
Travis - From a dead stop, 2650 is a lot of KV to pull (guessing its a 4 pole motor). The load is probably putting a large load on the battery, pulling it down below cut off (even for a millisecond). Don't know it its been recommended, but lower Punch, may have to go very low, even lower Forward Power slightly.
Travis - From a dead stop, 2650 is a lot of KV to pull (guessing its a 4 pole motor). The load is probably putting a large load on the battery, pulling it down below cut off (even for a millisecond). Don't know it its been recommended, but lower Punch, may have to go very low, even lower Forward Power slightly.
#6985
They were probably 10-12 teeth higher than most people would run the same motor. It would be like running 50-52/69 on the VST motor.
#6986
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 50
From: Lafayette, LA
There's something wrong with my ESC. HAS TO BE. Guess ill be ordering an RX8 for the upcoming racing.. When do you guys issue out warranty replacements? I'll have the viper VTX8 for a backup if needed then....lol
I just need a push start and the ESC works flawlessly. I can even crawl if I wanted, stop on the hill and when I roll down, the ESC allows the truck to work flawlessly again due to the rolling push, lol. Besides the start problems, for some reason the truck feels really underpowered compared to the stock SC8.2e's 2000kv / XP ESC
The ESC never gotten past 118* and the motor 110* after a 10-12 minute run. I even set all my motor parameters such as start RPM and END RPM, throttle Hz, ect......
Just can't seem to understand why
I just need a push start and the ESC works flawlessly. I can even crawl if I wanted, stop on the hill and when I roll down, the ESC allows the truck to work flawlessly again due to the rolling push, lol. Besides the start problems, for some reason the truck feels really underpowered compared to the stock SC8.2e's 2000kv / XP ESC
The ESC never gotten past 118* and the motor 110* after a 10-12 minute run. I even set all my motor parameters such as start RPM and END RPM, throttle Hz, ect......
Just can't seem to understand why
#6987
No offense but how do you know it's the esc? Did you do as the earlier guy suggested and switch motor/sensor wire?
I have had identical problems in the past on a non Viper 10th...and it was definitely sensor related. It's likely either the cable, or the motor sensor board, or if neither the esc sensor board.
Also did you try dropping punch as Nick suggested?
I have had identical problems in the past on a non Viper 10th...and it was definitely sensor related. It's likely either the cable, or the motor sensor board, or if neither the esc sensor board.
Also did you try dropping punch as Nick suggested?
There's something wrong with my ESC. HAS TO BE. Guess ill be ordering an RX8 for the upcoming racing.. When do you guys issue out warranty replacements? I'll have the viper VTX8 for a backup if needed then....lol
I just need a push start and the ESC works flawlessly. I can even crawl if I wanted, stop on the hill and when I roll down, the ESC allows the truck to work flawlessly again due to the rolling push, lol. Besides the start problems, for some reason the truck feels really underpowered compared to the stock SC8.2e's 2000kv / XP ESC
The ESC never gotten past 118* and the motor 110* after a 10-12 minute run. I even set all my motor parameters such as start RPM and END RPM, throttle Hz, ect......
Just can't seem to understand why
I just need a push start and the ESC works flawlessly. I can even crawl if I wanted, stop on the hill and when I roll down, the ESC allows the truck to work flawlessly again due to the rolling push, lol. Besides the start problems, for some reason the truck feels really underpowered compared to the stock SC8.2e's 2000kv / XP ESC
The ESC never gotten past 118* and the motor 110* after a 10-12 minute run. I even set all my motor parameters such as start RPM and END RPM, throttle Hz, ect......
Just can't seem to understand why
#6988
#6989
There's something wrong with my ESC. HAS TO BE. Guess ill be ordering an RX8 for the upcoming racing.. When do you guys issue out warranty replacements? I'll have the viper VTX8 for a backup if needed then....lol
I just need a push start and the ESC works flawlessly. I can even crawl if I wanted, stop on the hill and when I roll down, the ESC allows the truck to work flawlessly again due to the rolling push, lol. Besides the start problems, for some reason the truck feels really underpowered compared to the stock SC8.2e's 2000kv / XP ESC
The ESC never gotten past 118* and the motor 110* after a 10-12 minute run. I even set all my motor parameters such as start RPM and END RPM, throttle Hz, ect......
Just can't seem to understand why
I just need a push start and the ESC works flawlessly. I can even crawl if I wanted, stop on the hill and when I roll down, the ESC allows the truck to work flawlessly again due to the rolling push, lol. Besides the start problems, for some reason the truck feels really underpowered compared to the stock SC8.2e's 2000kv / XP ESC
The ESC never gotten past 118* and the motor 110* after a 10-12 minute run. I even set all my motor parameters such as start RPM and END RPM, throttle Hz, ect......
Just can't seem to understand why



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