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Congrats guys!!! Glad you like the BE edition!!!!:tire::tire::tire::tire::tire:
Dan = thanks for posting the specs - look at the Copperhead systems like this R39 - 2wd SC R45 - 4wd SC R51 - 4wd SC Thanks to the guys at RCSoup.com for taking a look at our stuff, we appreciate it!!! |
bought the copperhead 5150 combo and was extremely happy with it until late,the last 2 races ive not been able to finish my main because of a truck that takes a jump and deceides its gonna sit the rest of the race out,steering works just dont move. its in a losi scte with nanotech 6.0 packs,not real sure what to think of it anymore but being in 3rd place points 2 races a go down to 5th now is about enuff to make me throw the thing in the garbage.especially when you have a truck sitting there that the steering works on and you walk off the drivers stand and then it deceides oh i wanna finish this race.
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Originally Posted by monteman1970
(Post 11124348)
bought the copperhead 5150 combo and was extremely happy with it until late,the last 2 races ive not been able to finish my main because of a truck that takes a jump and deceides its gonna sit the rest of the race out,steering works just dont move. its in a losi scte with nanotech 6.0 packs,not real sure what to think of it anymore but being in 3rd place points 2 races a go down to 5th now is about enuff to make me throw the thing in the garbage.especially when you have a truck sitting there that the steering works on and you walk off the drivers stand and then it deceides oh i wanna finish this race.
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Originally Posted by DanielHolloway
(Post 11124609)
Seriously, check your bullet connectors. Mine was doing the same thing. Found out the that bullets on the motor wires were arcing out and the speedo was thinking that it was thermalling. When this happens, are the f/r leds blinking with the n led staying lit?
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monteman - like Dan said, we found that situation with his - it was actually fooling the esc that the arch was a thermal situation. So make sure the bullets are very tight.
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FT T4.1 ST with a Viper 13.5T whats the best gearing as i've only ran the 17.5T in Blinky. Also is it safe to switch the vtx10 to Profile #3 if i'm running Mod?
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Originally Posted by monteman1970
(Post 11124620)
first time it did that in a qual i checked and did find a loose one on esc,replaced it checked others all was good and tite,did the same thing 3 minutes into a main.
Then it started doing it whenever I would take the smallest bump, like scraping the pipe, or if I landed hard. Either way, it would cut out like that. Still have steering, but no motor. When I went to tear it down, the one bullet had arced hard enough that the prongs on the cage of the bullet had melted. That sent the esc into thermal mode because the bumps were making it thermal, and the arc is obviously hot enough to make the esc think it exploded! Mine is now running like a champ. If you noticed a loose bullet, I'm willing to bet that is the problem. Try replacing the bullet on the motor wires, and make sure you clean out the female plug. If not, you can always send it back and have them look at it. They are pretty quick as far as turn around time. Hope this helps... |
Damion- maybe down two teeth? Three? It's going to depend on your track. Check your temps. I actually keep the settings the same between 13.5 and 17.5 most if the time. Unless you want to play with a little boost :sneaky:
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i can tell there are already a few questions like mine asked. i run deans and put brand new deans on both my esc and battery to see if it was the problem, but i still get this:
a few weeks ago i wanted to try the viper system, so i got a VTXr with a 4.5 550 viper motor. truck ran great until the mains. it made 3 qualifers great. but when it came to the main, it made 1 lap and cut off. i didn;t change any setting or anything with it. when i went to touch it, i got a nice little shock! i am running a Thunder Power 65c 2s lipo on it with a Ko Propo radio system and Savox servo. the system powers up like it should, but all i get is throttle control. i have tried many many times to calibrate it with no success. even tried a new receiver.and i have tried it on the Viper Proguage im not getting any luck! any advice on what i should do? i am currently trying to find my receipt that i have misplaced. |
Anyone has heard about defectives VTX10 having shorts where the wires are soldered? (not the cable badly soldered)
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 11126769)
Damion- maybe down two teeth? Three? It's going to depend on your track. Check your temps. I actually keep the settings the same between 13.5 and 17.5 most if the time. Unless you want to play with a little boost :sneaky:
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Originally Posted by suparajicon
(Post 11127104)
Anyone has heard about defectives VTX10 having shorts where the wires are soldered? (not the cable badly soldered)
I have seen some pretty crazy solder jobs sent back to us via the RMA process. |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 10880025)
Viper RC Solutions expends support of the military with the MPP (Military Purchase Program) year-round discount. Please contact us at [email protected] for details.
I asked my COC and was told a copy of an LES (with social and bank account numbers blacked out) and a Drivers License would be more than enough to prove Military service to an online retailer. |
Originally Posted by DanielHolloway
(Post 11124609)
Seriously, check your bullet connectors. Mine was doing the same thing. Found out the that bullets on the motor wires were arcing out and the speedo was thinking that it was thermalling. When this happens, are the f/r leds blinking with the n led staying lit?
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orangutanracer - email that with your order - they are really looking for something to verify with -- you won't believe what some people try and pull.
monteman - thanks for the kind words, we keep trying, more and more.....:tire::tire: |
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