Motor temp was disabled and the ESC temp was set at 220?

Yeah, I forgot to mention that. I'm pretty familiar with these systems. I ran them exclusively for a season of offroad and a season of on road but decided to use something else. Now I'm just trying to make sure that this kid can run his stuff.

You can turn the motor temp cut off higher. I have even disabled it, and checked then temp with a temp gun sometimes. It's not a bad thing to do that. If you temp the outside of the can you want to stay around 150-160 after a race distance. If your at a big race and want little more- try it. I have gone to 200 with my VST5.0L in the sc104x4.

When we give you temps (and the settings in the esc) they are a guideline. You can run them hotter if you choose. If done correctly you can get a little more performance. But - But - if done wrong, you can hurt the motor, it may not last as long. So like everything else. It's a balancing act.

We went to a race several month ago that drivers using another motor were coming off the track blazing hot, and replacing rotors every run, to maintain performance. Everyone has their own idea on how to make it work.

Like I said above, the motor cut off has already been disabled.

I would check the center diff/spur to see if its dragging. I temped 1 time due to grit in my sprur so I cleaned it all out and cleaned my center bearings and my temps went down to the 120 degree range and this was in a Nexx10sc the losi has more play in it that can cause drag on the motor.

It's not a temp issue though. When both the motor AND ESC are less than 150*, it's not anything to do with heat. And if it is with the settings that are there, then something else is wrong.

Only things I can think of is sensor wire and calibration

Anyone have gearing suggestions/ESC setups for an 8.5 in a B44 and a 13.5 in a B4?

Most tracks are small to medium sized.

Right now im at 34/72 in the B4 with some timing, I used profile 3 and tuned it down some.
In the 44 im at 19/83, and same thing on the ESC, profile 3 and tuned down some.

The B4 temps at like 110-120, and the 44 usually at 160-170.

Thanks

If it was that it should be right away, not 3/4 of the way through a run.

I have had sensor cables that would work then not work depending how it wiggled if it was freyed or loose pins going into the plug. If its doing it though 3 or 4 minutes into a run every time sure sounds like a heat issue to me be it the motor or at some point in the esc. Never had a viper esc apart but a cold solder joint or a plug inside of it thats loose/bad connection internally or externally get hot.

That's what I'm thinking it may be. I've seen issues very close to this, all slightly different, all running 550 size motors. The one issue I have seen with a 540 sized issue and offroad was in a 2wd SC. All of these issues have been completely different from the issues that I had personally had.

All I'm trying to is get a good solution for this kid so he doesn't have to spend even more money on this system or replacing the system with something else.

One thing wasn't mentioned unless I missed it. What were his voltage cutoff settings? Kinda odd that it did it at same time every run.

Thanks, I missed that one. It was at 6.2v. When we charged his packs they were still at 7.9v. That would be one hell of a spike that it can't overcome.

In my B44 I'm running profile 2 no boost with a LRP X12 8.5 at 19/81 temps run 150ish after 8 min main has lots power, with the bottom tray cover on it runs 10 to 15 Deg's higher.

So is the 1/8th speedo ever going to become a reality

Yes, As what I heard,it should be coming out soon.
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...ony/viper8.jpg