Derry- when you do the calibration hold the button down until you hear the beep-beep. Pull full throttle then push the button again. You will hear two more beeps then push full break and hit button one more time. Then you can let go. The system will reset (might take few seconds) you should hear a little tune and be ready to go. Pull the throttle you should have motor and see the lights on the switch change.

With mod motors you will generally start a little high with the freq maybe 9600 or 12k. maybe adjust punch per the traction you have and driving style. I turn punch down some with lower turns (I don't have the throttle finger I did 15 years ago). Everyone is a little different.

Join the party!!!!

Sounds good... Thanks for the reply. The only thing that threw me was the no beep after pressing the button while holding full brake. I'm pretty sure what you described is exactly what happened. Plus the throttle and brake felt perfect after my calibration attempt. And yes I really like the punch feature. I built a few mod profiles trying a few different things and think I like the punch setting between 20 and 40% but will play with it more as I get used to it.

Secret is out of the bag now..and you have money left over.

Go Fast, Save money -- who came up with this insane idea ??

Id rather run these then the mamba. At least these are sensored motors.
I'll be hunting down a 10.5 motor to run in my bomber car, it might very well be one of these motors. I guess I'll try them out in oval racing before
giving them a shot in offroad.

One question I have is when you buy the Viper motors do you get a sensor wire included? Most companies give ya a sensor wire. That's the only question I have.

Yup comes with wire when you buy a motor...Flex wire covered with sleeve wire netting..

What temps is ok for 540 cans/vtx esc on 4x4 ? Manual says don't exceed 160F on both.. What temps are you guys getting on 4X4 and do guys use fans for motor/esc??

Mr. Cool - are we talking about a 4x4 buggy or SC?? We don't recommend a 540 motor for 4wd SC. For 4wd buggy, you can stay in that temperature range easily. The guidelines we give are for guys to get the most enjoyment and use out of our products. Some people want to run them hotter, sometimes that can yield a little more performance. But the trade off is the motor will wear out faster and the odds of having and issue increase.

I am looking for a good starting point for the brakes. I can't seem to get them adjusted right. I race a 17.5 b4.1 buggy, a 7.5 b4.1, a 6.5 b44.1 and an 8.5 SC10. The brakes are either to much and sppin the car out or I am on the brakes all the way. Maybe it's my driving but I am losing a ton of time gettin thru the corners and I'm not sure if my brakes are set correctly. I don't run drag brake and the dynamic brake is turned off. I currently have them set at 80% with 5000 PMW running linear. Thank guys.

jrj - try turning the brakes up to 90-95% and then use the throttle epa to roll back and adjust to keep from locking wheels.

I will give that a shot. Thank guys.

Hello
Can somebody surgest setup for Coperhead 5150. I use it in Slash 4x4. Now I use Race mode but I would like to have softer start

Have you tried the recommended starting points for the 4x4 Slash that was included in the package?

The brake PWM Freq setting to tune your initial "grab" on the brakes when you first use them (higher = more initial brake) and then your brake percentage is kind of how much brake you have after that.

80% is allot in a 2wd Buggy or even a 2wd SCT on a slicker track.

I myself tend to run some drag brake in a 2wd car even on a slick track (set lower to 5-10%). Drag Brake is there to keep you from looping out the car, by giving you a consistent brake every time you go to neutral on the trigger. It can also give you more steering into the corner.

IMO -you run "just enough" brakes on that particular track and day. I set my brakes to 80% in the esc, but then also use the brake end-point on the radio so that I can adjust it on the track from my radio

I second FLHX1550's thought on the subject.

Myself 2wd mod buggy with a 7.5 I have been running 68% brake strength, -1 curve, 14% drag, and between 95-100% EPA. This is on a track that doesn't require alot of heavy braking. On tracks that require heavy braking I might increase brake strength slightly. I don't mess with PWM much, but I did lower it from 5000 a bit. The type of motor, size of rotor, and your driving style will dictate your final settings. The nice thing about the viper is you can tune it track side easily without turning the unit off.

My rule of thumb is if I have to adjust EPA more than 10% then I will make the change in the ESC.