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Old 03-04-2012 | 08:04 PM
  #4111  
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Originally Posted by cla5675
Hey, guys. Well I finally got my VTX10 to work as it should and it is very smooth and super fast!! However, I'm now having an issue when I first turn the ESC on. Sometimes the neutral green light blinks and the ESC beeps like it's wanting me to re-calibrate. I ran into this a few times last night at the track and I just did the calibration process so I could get on to the track. Am I doing something wrong when turning on the ESC? I just touch the on/off swith momentrarily. Should I hold the on/off switch longer? The problem was pretty random so it was hard to follow when and why it was happening. Any advice is much appreciated!!

Troy.
How does your ESC beep, does it just beep constantly after you turn it on? I've been having this same issue with my two vtx10's. I'd say 7 or 8 times out of 10 I have to recalibrate it after I turn it on. Actually I have to recalibrate twice because the first time never works. Kind of frustrating, but I am able to get it working eventually so I haven't searched for a permanent solution. My own laziness

I am using airtronics tx/rx
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Old 03-04-2012 | 08:11 PM
  #4112  
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youwish- the motor does have an internal temp sensor, I can't guarantee it works with any other system, they are all a little different. Remember that internal temp on the rotor is higher than the temp you get on the outside of the can.

zZ- maybe try around 19/87 to start. Make sure you get a good solid run up to that jump. No wheelspin, don't bottom out on the jump. Maybe turn timing on can down a little.

Glowster - did younspank them at RCHR? Email me the details.

nitro- I did notice with mine if I crashed and rolled backwards at all it took a second or two for the motor to realize what direction it was going in - remember its unsensored so that is one little downfall. Glad it's running good, looks like they got that motor back to you quickly!

apriliamille- I hope you mean VTX10R. If you are running it with in a 4wd SC, where there are large voltage spikes, it would be a good idea.

mugenlife- it's right on par under a high majority of circumstances. And the motor and esc cost about the same as that motor.
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Old 03-04-2012 | 08:14 PM
  #4113  
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pastaman- it means the esc can not find the radio's neutral point. Try moving throttle trim up or down a few points and re-calibrate. Every radio is a little different. Even model numbers within the radio can be different. You can use the ProGauge to run a PPM check, it's really interesting.
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Old 03-04-2012 | 09:08 PM
  #4114  
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Originally Posted by Glowster21
Double post, sorry!
Joe next time I see you at rchr I will have to get you to update my firmware. I would like both my esc's to have the same version.

Anyways, tried out the viper for the first time this weekend. After that little issue (loosing all power intermittently) that a new sensor cable seemed to fix it was good. Definitely felt smoother then my tekin rs and the brakes had a better feel to me.

I will run it a few more times. If no issues then I think the rest of my tekin stuff will have to go in the for sale section, so I can buy another esc for my 4x4.
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Old 03-05-2012 | 01:11 AM
  #4115  
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how are the viper copper head systems? I am looking for a cheap alternative for my bashing sct and the price point is just right...

also will that 4 cap mod be good for mod truck? I plan on racing a 7.5T

Thanks,
Jayson
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Old 03-05-2012 | 05:05 AM
  #4116  
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
pastaman- it means the esc can not find the radio's neutral point. Try moving throttle trim up or down a few points and re-calibrate. Every radio is a little different. Even model numbers within the radio can be different. You can use the ProGauge to run a PPM check, it's really interesting.
Thanks nikos, I will give that a try
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Old 03-05-2012 | 05:38 AM
  #4117  
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tschenck - glad you like it -- get John and Mark to order more!!! Couple things to check: Make sure motor cut off temp is set accurate - should be up about 220 or higher. Some of the older software problem from the factory defaulted at 160, which internally is not very much.

Nitro - Copperhead has been great, unsensored combo that does not feel like it. 4 pole power and acceleration, great price. I really liked it when I ran it at Motorama. The extra cap is something that can help if you are really hard on brakes or run a massive servo that suck power. Under regular conditions the 2 that come with the esc are more than enough.
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Old 03-05-2012 | 06:21 AM
  #4118  
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nikos2002

yes the 10r, its going in a 2wd
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Old 03-05-2012 | 07:51 AM
  #4119  
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apriliamille - I have not used it with 2wd. Maybe if your driving style is very hard on the brakes or throttle, but I wouldn't say its mandatory.
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Old 03-05-2012 | 11:01 AM
  #4120  
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I just picked up a VTX10R and was wondering what the differences are between that and the VTX10. I have two of those and if they are exactly the same except for power handling then great. I didn't know if there was a difference in the pro gauge settings between the two. Thanks.
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Old 03-05-2012 | 12:12 PM
  #4121  
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There are no differences in the settings you can change with ProGauge between the VTX10 and 10R. Just, like you said, the power of motors that they can handle, size (height) and some minor weight difference (i haven´t yet compared the weight between them )
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Old 03-05-2012 | 12:15 PM
  #4122  
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[QUOTE=jrj1451;10424692]I just picked up a VTX10R and was wondering w[B[/B]hat the differences are between that and the VTX10. I have two of those and if they are exactly the same except for power handling then great. I didn't know if there was a difference in the pro gauge settings between the two. Thanks.[/QUOTE]
They are the same except the VTX10R can handle 5.5 and lower turn motors.
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Old 03-05-2012 | 12:22 PM
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[/B]
Originally Posted by apriliamille
hello, i just ordered the r10 esc. i recently got a radiopost transmitter and ordered a hv servo. i would like to try the upper volt range adjustments for the bec and the servo. would i need this cap set up to assist with the power to the servo.

sorry for the question. i dont fully understand what these caps do and dont do

thanks
The caps basically hold a little voltage so there are no voltage spike it will not change anything if you were to run a high voltage servo. It gives you better throttle and brake performance
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Old 03-05-2012 | 01:21 PM
  #4124  
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thanks ekim. just an fyi i had put up the question thorugh the website. can go ahead and tell them to disregard it
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Old 03-05-2012 | 06:41 PM
  #4125  
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
pastaman- it means the esc can not find the radio's neutral point. Try moving throttle trim up or down a few points and re-calibrate. Every radio is a little different. Even model numbers within the radio can be different. You can use the ProGauge to run a PPM check, it's really interesting.
I was having the same problem as pastaman and 2 clicks forward on the throttle trim seemed to fix it. Thanks, Nikos!!


Troy.
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