Originally Posted by mcheroke (Post 9135998)

I was finally able to get out to the "track" tonight with the sc10 4x4 and my new 10R. (We have a private 140 x 60 track we do testing and practice on every Wednesday night). I was amazed at how smooth the 10R is but I ran into some problems that maybe you guys have some insight with? First off here is the gear I am running with. I am running the 10R with a Tekin sc4x 4.5 550, Airtronics m11x radio (calibrated to esc per esc instructions) , Savox 1267 servo, and as for batteries I have 2 Fantom 5000 40c's and 1 Fantom 5600 50c (quality batteries). I ran 4 packs thru the truck and the problem I am running into is that my truck was shutting down after less than 5 minutes of run time. I have a blinking red light on my on/off switch. Trying to troubleshoot it tonight I wasn't able to come up with anything.Here's what I have my esc set with according to the proguage:

- run mode is set to RACE MODIFIED
- Profile 1 selected as you suggested
- everything else left at default setting

I have the truck geared to what the manual has as a starting point (62/12 13.28 fdr). When the truck shuts down the servo is still operating so my first guess would be that either the ESC or the motor has gone into thermal protection. I took temps as I pulled the truck off the track and the motor was coming off around 150-160 and the esc was between 130 and 150. According to the progauge my motor shutoff is at 190 and esc is 220 so I would think I was still ok in terms of temps. After each run I allowed everything to cool down to ambient temperature. I thought it could be the servo? That savox 1267 is a beast so I increased my sbec to 7.0v (servo is rated up to 7.4v) but this didn't seem to do anything as the truck still shut down. I even went as far as to kick it down to STOCK racing mode to see if modified mode did something to shut it down and it still shut down. I also checked the driveline after every run to see if there was any binding or rubbing, everything seemed to be good to go.

Any Ideas?

Originally Posted by smokinu (Post 9136043)

turn the motor cut off to off and leave the esc one at 220 that should solve the shut down issues. even though the out side can temp was 150-160 the inside can temp could have been 190-200 ;)

Originally Posted by mcheroke (Post 9136082)

I was thinking about doing that but the motor shouldn't be getting THAT hot in 4 minutes shouldn't it?

Originally Posted by mcheroke (Post 9136082)

I was thinking about doing that but the motor shouldn't be getting THAT hot in 4 minutes shouldn't it?

Originally Posted by Randy_Pike (Post 9140455)

No temp sensor in the Sc4x. And you're a touch undergeared for a typical indoor track. Try a 13T.

Originally Posted by BOLISARIO (Post 9091117)

Ok, I'm not having the best of luck with my VTX R. I was planning to use the esc for the first time today at the track, so I wired,soldered everything up, calibrated and used the pro gauge to make some fine adjustments. Everything worked fine. While on a car stand, I tested forward,brake ,etc to make sure everything is working, then after about 5-10 sec the whole esc just shut down.:cry:

I tried different batteries, still not working. I hooked up my old MMP to my receiver and that works perfectly. So I ruled out batteries, receiver, and radio. I even soldered new battery plugs and still the switch won't turn on.

Do I have a bad switch or did the esc just take a dump on me?

I guess no track day for me.:flaming:

Originally Posted by BOLISARIO (Post 9140716)

OK, I got my 10R replacement in and hooked everything up...............guess what happened again..........Yup another esc failure!!!:flaming::flaming::flaming: I throttled it maybe 5 feet on my kitchen floor, hit the brakes, then reverse and all of a sudden everything shut down on me just like the first esc.:flaming:

Weylin thinks the first one was some component failure, but twice in a row? I really want to give this esc a shot, I like all the features it provides: the small footprint, powers 550 motors, and I really like tuning the esc without a laptop. But I can't even get this esc on the track without it failing on me. I made sure all my solder joints are clean and solid, made sure none of the joints contact each other,etc. I've owned an RS Pro, MMP, RX8, etc, all my 1/10 esc's have been solid reliable(except for my 1/8 RX8) so I was hoping the VTX10R would be just as reliable. Maybe bad luck hit me twice and hopefully the third time's a charm?:weird:

Originally Posted by BOLISARIO (Post 9091117)

Ok, I'm not having the best of luck with my VTX R. I was planning to use the esc for the first time today at the track, so I wired,soldered everything up, calibrated and used the pro gauge to make some fine adjustments. Everything worked fine. While on a car stand, I tested forward,brake ,etc to make sure everything is working, then after about 5-10 sec the whole esc just shut down.:cry:

I tried different batteries, still not working. I hooked up my old MMP to my receiver and that works perfectly. So I ruled out batteries, receiver, and radio. I even soldered new battery plugs and still the switch won't turn on.

Do I have a bad switch or did the esc just take a dump on me?

I guess no track day for me.:flaming:

Originally Posted by smokinu (Post 9140843)

remove reverse.

what motor are you running it with?

Originally Posted by mcheroke (Post 9140277)

Ive been in contact with Weylin at viper and he gave me some really good pointers on setup with the 10R on 550's. He seemed to think I was getting the motor to go into thermal protection.

- Change the temp cutoff to 230* on both motor and esc
- Keep it on STOCK mode not RACE mode, builds up too much heat
- Increase the Drive PWM frequency to 8000hz with the progauge. Should keep the motor running cooler.

He wasn't sure if the tekin sc4x's have a temp sensor or if the viper is picking up the tekin temp sensor but I have to mess around with it again hopefully tonite.

Still wondering about the gearing though? at 67/12 (associated's recommended gearing) is it still not geared right? If i'm dropping teeth on the pinion isn't that just going to create more heat thru additional rpm's?

Anyone else running a similar setup in a sc104x4?

Originally Posted by needknees (Post 9140535)

Finally got my Viper esc/motor combo ordered :)

What would be a good starting point for gearing and ESC settings for a vtx10 and 8.5 motor in a 2wd SC10 running at a VERY tight, technical indoor track? I also run on a medium sized outdoor track, seems like bumping up a tooth or two on the pinion between the two works ok.

Originally Posted by BOLISARIO (Post 9140716)

OK, I got my 10R replacement in and hooked everything up...............guess what happened again..........Yup another esc failure!!!:flaming::flaming::flaming: I throttled it maybe 5 feet on my kitchen floor, hit the brakes, then reverse and all of a sudden everything shut down on me just like the first esc.:flaming:

Weylin thinks the first one was some component failure, but twice in a row? I really want to give this esc a shot, I like all the features it provides: the small footprint, powers 550 motors, and I really like tuning the esc without a laptop. But I can't even get this esc on the track without it failing on me. I made sure all my solder joints are clean and solid, made sure none of the joints contact each other,etc. I've owned an RS Pro, MMP, RX8, etc, all my 1/10 esc's have been solid reliable(except for my 1/8 RX8) so I was hoping the VTX10R would be just as reliable. Maybe bad luck hit me twice and hopefully the third time's a charm?:weird:

Originally Posted by mini-dub (Post 9140986)

If the motor doesn't have a built in temp sensor then the motor temp cutoff should just be disabled as to not confuse the esc. That will solve your problem.



Start around a 18/84-87, should be good for a tight layout. 20-22/87 for larger outdoor tracks.



I already emailed you back regarding this but if we're posting on here I'll say it again. I'm very surprised you experienced another issue with your replacement 10R as every single VTX10R that shipped out this week was personally tested by myself. I connected each ESC to a radio, calibrated it, and checked for proper motor operation, as well as proper sensor port and Vport fit. This final inspection was performed after two full function tests are performed before leaving the factory. The probability of that controller immediately failing due to component failure for your second time after being full function tested three times before reaching your door is so slim I couldn't find an engineer to calculate the probability. Nonetheless, please send it back again for replacement. I truly hope third time is the charm :tire: