As I have explained to MANY peple, you need to gear a Viper motor different than a Tekin. The Viper is a torque based motor and needs to be geared out of the mass amounts of torque it has.

I promise you, once you find the magic gearing.... you wont be dissappointed.

The tekin was at 12* on the can and I tried from 20* to 40* in the esc.

And as I have posted, I have tried from a 6.0 fdr to a 10.0 fdr, with varying ranges of timing, and the viper motor never hit the so called "magic". I have seen a viper 17.5 being ballistic on a rs. That makes me think it would be the same way on a vtx10. But no, my viper 17.5 is a slug, end of story.

Maybe you could post the esc set-up or profile you are using with the viper 17.5. That will give us a better idea of what maybe going on with the motor and esc combo. As for the motor thermoing, the temp. is an internal temp. and will read higher, as you have found, then the external temp. I would bump the temp up to 230*. That should give you a higher external temp that is still acceptable. Also remember that companies mark the timing on a motor can differently. The viper can is marked for True timing (30* is 30*). Tekin maybe marked differently.
Reuben

For the VTX10, put it in Profile#4. In Motor Power set your starting RPM to 3500, and finish RPM to 12000. Take your throttle band curve to High Band (one step up from Linear).

With the 17.5, set your motor temp cut-off to 200 degrees. Start with a 72 spur and 28 pinion. Keep gearing up until it feels strong, and then test it for 8 minutes to make sure it doesn't reach the temp cut off during a race.

What car are you running?

Probably around a 25/78 would be a good starting point. You'll be looking for temps around 130-145 after any length run. Start with pre-set profile #4.

Pre-set profile #1 or #2 will be good starting points. No need to run any esc timing with a 4.5 550. Gearing shouldn't need to be changed. Billy Fischer ran 12/54 gearing on a prototype VST 4.5XL at the Cactus and Silverstate, ran very well.

Weylin
Thanks for the tour and visit.. Look forward to talking with you again soon!

Thanks for stopping by, Jim! Always great to make connections with more local racers.

I have the same problem with mine. I just put it in a buggy and geared it to the moon. 45* of timing in the ESC to get anything out of it. The SS motor is faster.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._7743313_n.jpg

The most recent addition to Team Viper, Ryan Dunford of TLR, wins Pro4 4wd short course at JBRL Round #3! We are very excited to be working with Ryan for 2011 and hopefully beyond.

Ryan's runnin' Viper now? Groovy! :)

while the motors are very smooth and linear, they are also very slow. I put my VST 17.5 in my car with max external timing and kept the same gearing, esc profile, tires, etc...identical car with a motor change to same wind....coming down the straightaway, the car was about 1/3 as fast as my Orion v3 setup(rediculously slow)....I geared every which way but loose and NEVER could get the motor to be anywhere near as fast/powerful as the Orion, not even close as the Orion's are monsters.....you say the VST's like to be geared tall? Well, many of us have done it with ZERO improvements, dont act like it's all user error, it's not.

I have a question about boost. I am just getting back into racing electric after racing only gas for a long time. I was at a race this last weakend and saw a boosted 17.5 setup that just ate my 10.5 alive. I also seen this pro running a boosted 13.5 in the mod class and was doing everything the 8.5 and 7.5 guys did. So my question is what would the benefits and\or drawbacks to running say a boosted 13.5 or 17.5? The pro I spoke to said he likes the boosted 13.5 as it is smoother than most 7.5,s but will run right with them especially on indoor tracks. What are your thoughts?

basically a boosted motor of a higher turn is easier to drive since it has less power, then whenever boost comes in it runs like a mod motor, when u say he ate you alive im assuming u mean on the straight away? The big difference between the 2 is that when the higher turn motor isnt in its booost rpm range its just a normal motor, and a 17.5 or 13.5 lacks the punch that a 7.5 or 8.5 has. This would come in to play if lets say you have a triple on the track you are running, and coming to the face of the jump you get a little loose towards the end of the jump, you arent (in most cases) gonna have the ability to give the throttle a blip and clear it, you would need to get a decent run at it. with a mod motor you can just blip the throttle and clear what you need to clear. In the hands of a good driver you would see a mod motor would be slightly faster (not much at all really). I all comes down to what feels comfortable to the driver, choosing a motor size is like choosing what brand car to run, whatever works best for you :nod:

Trevor I know you have nothing positive to bring to the Viper community, please don't come around trolling with your slander against our products just because you have an extreme misunderstanding of how to act as a company representative, or not. This is no method to try and whine for free products, either :weird: