Keyence ESC
#364
the car simply died out... couple of secs later it came back to life
could it be the sign of rapida overheating and automatically switched itself off? i'm by the equator where at noon track temp can easily go pass 50C
could it be the sign of rapida overheating and automatically switched itself off? i'm by the equator where at noon track temp can easily go pass 50C
#365
Originally posted by KoE
the car simply died out... couple of secs later it came back to life
could it be the sign of rapida overheating and automatically switched itself off? i'm by the equator where at noon track temp can easily go pass 50C
the car simply died out... couple of secs later it came back to life
could it be the sign of rapida overheating and automatically switched itself off? i'm by the equator where at noon track temp can easily go pass 50C
#366
50C = 122F. The initial setting (which i didn't have driving problem) was close to default P5 values except for drive & brake freq which were 4KHz, neutral brake freq was 5KHz and motor brake was 2%.
i felt motor braking was giving me some turning problem, so i turned it off and increased drive and brake freq both to 5KHz. this is when the problem started. all the time, ensa was at 100% with no diode on the motor.
i missed the temp. reading since this is my 1st outing with rapida.
150F track temp
that's 65.5C ... about as hot as the 2nd leg of F1 which was said to be the hottest leg in F1 this year
we also got high humidity to tackle
i felt motor braking was giving me some turning problem, so i turned it off and increased drive and brake freq both to 5KHz. this is when the problem started. all the time, ensa was at 100% with no diode on the motor.
i missed the temp. reading since this is my 1st outing with rapida.
150F track temp
that's 65.5C ... about as hot as the 2nd leg of F1 which was said to be the hottest leg in F1 this year
we also got high humidity to tackle
#370
I have run it many times and when I fiinish a qualigying or final the reading wais 52C with no problem at all.
I have noticed that my car doesn't brake as much as it used to. Imagine that I was going full throttle and hit the brakes wihtout spinning around as I should considering I'm using a one-way and the settings is at highest!! On the esc it;s the P5.
Any ideas?
Nick
I have noticed that my car doesn't brake as much as it used to. Imagine that I was going full throttle and hit the brakes wihtout spinning around as I should considering I'm using a one-way and the settings is at highest!! On the esc it;s the P5.
Any ideas?
Nick
#371
Originally posted by nnick
I have noticed that my car doesn't brake as much as it used to. Imagine that I was going full throttle and hit the brakes wihtout spinning around as I should considering I'm using a one-way and the settings is at highest!! On the esc it;s the P5.
Any ideas?
Nick
I have noticed that my car doesn't brake as much as it used to. Imagine that I was going full throttle and hit the brakes wihtout spinning around as I should considering I'm using a one-way and the settings is at highest!! On the esc it;s the P5.
Any ideas?
Nick
- JB
#372
Tech Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,204
From: New Zealand
Originally posted by JayBee
I've noticed the same deal, doesn't brake as much as it use to before I had the Keyence and I'm on the 'P5 setting too
- JB
I've noticed the same deal, doesn't brake as much as it use to before I had the Keyence and I'm on the 'P5 setting too
- JB
Even running in 540 stock I have noticed a similar thing (when I'm using ensa at 100%).
Sure it puts power back into the battery and saves from having to us a diode but I certainly notice a difference when I turn ensa off and use a diode. Let's just say the braking is obviously stronger.
I'm assuming that with ensa the electricity flowing back to top up the battery is removing the *like chucking it into reverse "feeling"* of the brakes which feel quite brutal with a diode.
I don't know what the technical explanation is but I always saw the diode as preventing the "flow back" so to speak but as such with no place to go back to the shorting/braking effect is greater on the motor.
So basically what I've found is that with a diode 20% is enough but without a diode I've had to increase to 40% (just short of the "typical" setting for 540 stock).
Just a thought.
Ps: I see the P5 setting is only 10% minimum brakes.
I tried that when I first got mine, well sure it stops but in 540 stock you might as well not have any brakes if you want to stop in a hurry.
I suggest that rather than use the pre sets P4,5,6 or 7 use the "typical" settings, in stock and mod it's 15% as the starting point for braking.
Last edited by Mabuchi540; 03-27-2005 at 02:07 PM.
#374
Tech Master
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,204
From: New Zealand
Originally posted by Jon Kerr
You actually have to hit the brakes with a Mabuchi?
Sorry, Just Kidding. I had to say it though. It was wide open.
You actually have to hit the brakes with a Mabuchi?
Sorry, Just Kidding. I had to say it though. It was wide open.
Unfortunately I've lost count of the number of times that I've braked to avoid a mishap but the person behind me doesn't or doesn't care and just goes for it.
We need brake lights.
lol



