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my RAPIDA PRO seems to have 'locked up' i can scroll through the menus but cant adjust anything,and everything looks like its at its highest value. is there a way to reset it or something? i fell like smashing it with a big hammer

I'm hearing all these problems with the Rapida, what gives? The ZV Extreme, did anyone ever encounter these hiccups? - JB
BTW, I have the ZV Ext.

just replaced the rapida with an old gm v4 that i had floating around. i'm wondering if its really worth it.....

Now that I have used it, I can say my Rapida performs very well (even though I have to crank up the minimum drive to get any punch in 540 stock) ...

that said Keyence QC still leaves a lot to be desired with the amount of stuff that needed tidying up on the ones that I have.

However my problems relate to external things not what's been mentioned here.

hey, i have to thank keyence for being such an awesome company. I sent my zero v extreme in tuesday because it wouldnt recognize throttle input, and i got it back today, which is thursday. Awesome turn around time! Thanks for the great service keyence

I bought a used Rapida Pro and I would like to verify that the esc is a Real Rapida since I find it easy to just swap in a "Rapida" label on the esc case.

My esc has the EnSA mode. Is this enough to identify it as a Rapida? Is the EnSA feature available from other earlier keyence models?

Also, I set the ESC to 2.2KHz drive frequency and 0p minimum drive. Then I let a buddy drive the car (a shaft driven car). The person is a straight LRP guy. His first comment is "Is your car glitching?. Cause there is considerable delay on neutral - mid throttle." The car appears to accelerate very softly, like I need to floor the throttle for the car to accelerate. With an LRP or a GT7 I could see the car speed up as I squeeze the throttle. With the Rapida, I can barely observe a change of speed as I squeeze the throttle. I can only see the car speed up when I floor the throttle.

I read some post here that this can be remedied by setting min drive higher. But why do I need to do that? I mean, when I squeeze half throttle, isn't the esc suppose to respond proportionately with the throttle input? Setting the esc at 20p seems like covering up for a defect to me.

Thanks for any input.

on what sort of motor you're running. I run 540 stock and with the Keyence or my Nosram (an LRP in a different package) unless you turn up the minimum drive the punch is gutless and responds like you mention in your post.

As for wether or not it's a genuine Rapida Pro instead of a Zero V Extreme (I've just had a look at pictures of both and you're right apart from the label I can't tell either) assuming your Esc still has the registration sticker on the side you could use that number and check with the importers.

At 0 drive and a 2.2 frequency and a 540 or mild stock the Esc is going to be totally linear and very smooth so it may be hard to notice. I'd ask when it gets going is your car fast enough when side by side in a stright line drag for example or do you actually get left behind.

I'm running monster stocks. (27turn)

I can set the min drive higher but It just doesn't feel right. If for example I set min drive at 20p, maybe I could get some punch back. But it is does not feel the same compared to the Quantum or GT7 where I could see the motor smoothly speeding up from zero to maximum as I squeeze the trigger. With the Keyence, the motor will start at 20% power right after I start squeezing.

Maybe it's not really possible for "users to make their own favorite esc" . I think the Quantum's or Gt7's software may have something to do with the different feel

what do you think?

*** FOLLOWUP to your FOLLOWUP ****

Yes, on the straight, the esc is just as good as most other newer ESC's. It's just the response on the slower sections that I'm a little dissappointed.

Ninja - Something is not set right on your speedo. There is no delay or lack of punch on a properly setup Rapida. If you look I bet your nutr setting is high (over 5p). It should be in the 3-5p range if you have a new/good radio.

I used to run 27T stock and I ran my min drive (d_Po) at 0p and I had plenty of punch. I didn't like how jumpy the car was at higher settings (over 10p).

FYI, 75% of the Keyence speedos returned to us have nothing wrong with them. Most are just not set to the transmitter properly. The rest just have wacky settings so they feel weird on the track. If they are not set to the transmitter properly you will never be able to program them right.

adrian,would you be able to post up some basic settings for say,540,27t and 19t?

i'm sure it would help alot of people (including me )

Here you go....

Main:

nutr - 4p
d_po - 10p Run it as low as 0p if you don't like the snap 10p gives you coming out of corners.
b_po - 10p
nubr - 0p
f_br - OFF
EnSA - 100p

FRQ:

d_Fr - 1.5 If your motor fades at the end of a run walk the frequency up to as high as 2.5. The better you are are rolling in the throttle gradually the lower you can run the FRQ without fading.

b_Fr - 5.0 This higher FRQ make for smooth brakes and keeps the comm from getting burned if you brake hard.

nbFr - Doesn't matter you don't need neutral brake for stock.

Save this as Sp_1. That way you can make any changes and if you don't like it you can always Load (Lp_1) and get right back you your baseline.

Good Racing!