3Likes1/10th pan car
02-19-2004, 09:31 AM
#5776
Re: Old 10L concept
Originally posted by Pro ten Holland
Hey Mark, you have stated that the older Asso 10L is greatly inferior to the L2.
I have raced against a friend who has the old 10L with the Dynamic Strut front end, making it an Ls. He has the carbon version. The chassis seems to be a lot less stiffer than the L2 chassis. Is this the main difference? I think the asymetrical T-bar is a drawback, but it doesn't really show on the track.
I did however notice that he was struggling even more than me to find front traction. This might partially be caused by the L not having the Tbar brace, making the front-to-back dampening a little softer.
What do you think?
Hey Mark, you have stated that the older Asso 10L is greatly inferior to the L2.
I have raced against a friend who has the old 10L with the Dynamic Strut front end, making it an Ls. He has the carbon version. The chassis seems to be a lot less stiffer than the L2 chassis. Is this the main difference? I think the asymetrical T-bar is a drawback, but it doesn't really show on the track.
I did however notice that he was struggling even more than me to find front traction. This might partially be caused by the L not having the Tbar brace, making the front-to-back dampening a little softer.
What do you think?
A brand-new L/LS chassis placed next to a brand-new L2 chassis would actually be stiffer. It sounds like your friend’s car is just high-mileage to the point of the chassis going weak much like over time, T-bars go soft.
I would advise softening the front end and/or make sure he has a fresh T-bar on the car to compensate.
Last edited by MarkA; 02-19-2004 at 09:36 AM.
02-19-2004, 11:13 AM
#5777
Gearing for this track
This is timezone in Battleground, WA. The folks who are putting on the Nats race here a few times a year. They would race more but its in the owners back yard so noise is an issue. Will try mod with six cells.
http://www.timezoneracing.com/8th_good_shot2.JPG
http://www.timezoneracing.com/8th_good_shot2.JPG
02-19-2004, 11:29 AM
#5778
Re: Gearing for this track
Originally posted by tomdav
This is timezone in Battleground, WA. The folks who are putting on the Nats race here a few times a year. They would race more but its in the owners back yard so noise is an issue. Will try mod with six cells.
http://www.timezoneracing.com/8th_good_shot2.JPG
This is timezone in Battleground, WA. The folks who are putting on the Nats race here a few times a year. They would race more but its in the owners back yard so noise is an issue. Will try mod with six cells.
http://www.timezoneracing.com/8th_good_shot2.JPG
I wish I could have a track like that in my backyard...
02-19-2004, 02:56 PM
#5779
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally posted by ninen
can someone help me?? im trying to fit a 190mm protoform chevy silverado body on a 1/10 tamiya F103-LM. i know the f103 is 200mm, but i'm after that look where the wheels are partially extended at the sides. can someone tell me what parts/modifications are needed to do this??
tnx
pic of the body attached
can someone help me?? im trying to fit a 190mm protoform chevy silverado body on a 1/10 tamiya F103-LM. i know the f103 is 200mm, but i'm after that look where the wheels are partially extended at the sides. can someone tell me what parts/modifications are needed to do this??
tnx
pic of the body attached
Start with s sets of HPI body posts and use the bumper that is included in the F103LM (LeMans kit)....good luck
02-19-2004, 02:57 PM
#5780
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally posted by Pro ten Holland
Paint that body up like this picture, that would be easy, and mighty cool! That would make something like my jaguar body I use for show! See attachment.
Paint that body up like this picture, that would be easy, and mighty cool! That would make something like my jaguar body I use for show! See attachment.
02-19-2004, 06:19 PM
#5781
RC10LS Motor Spacer
I received my Associated motor spacer. It looks like it is going to move the motor closer to centerline by about 1/4". The spacer is round and looks like it goes between the motor and the pod motor mount. If this is the supposedly unobtainable part then I made a good find. I willl see the SoCal guys on Saturday and they can tell me what I found.
02-20-2004, 04:25 AM
#5782
Re: RC10LS Motor Spacer
Originally posted by MrPhoney
I received my Associated motor spacer. It looks like it is going to move the motor closer to centerline by about 1/4". The spacer is round and looks like it goes between the motor and the pod motor mount. If this is the supposedly unobtainable part then I made a good find. I willl see the SoCal guys on Saturday and they can tell me what I found.
I received my Associated motor spacer. It looks like it is going to move the motor closer to centerline by about 1/4". The spacer is round and looks like it goes between the motor and the pod motor mount. If this is the supposedly unobtainable part then I made a good find. I willl see the SoCal guys on Saturday and they can tell me what I found.
02-20-2004, 06:46 AM
#5783
Re: Re: RC10LS Motor Spacer
Originally posted by SpeedyTC3
Any chance of getting a pic of this part posted or a part number?
Any chance of getting a pic of this part posted or a part number?
02-20-2004, 06:47 AM
#5784
02-20-2004, 08:52 AM
#5785
Sweeeeeet!!!!!
02-20-2004, 09:16 AM
#5786
Heat sink/centering spacer
That is a nice piece but it costs $59.95. I have heat sinks and the spacer I got lists for $2.00.
Claudio Ortiz
Claudio Ortiz
02-20-2004, 09:56 AM
#5787
Re: Heat sink/centering spacer
Originally posted by MrPhoney
That is a nice piece but it costs $59.95. I have heat sinks and the spacer I got lists for $2.00.
Claudio Ortiz
That is a nice piece but it costs $59.95. I have heat sinks and the spacer I got lists for $2.00.
Claudio Ortiz
Also, do you have to use a shaft extender with it?
02-20-2004, 01:21 PM
#5788
Motor Spacer
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c....pl?pn=ASC8110
I found it at Stormer Hobbies. Associated part number 8110. Price is $1.95.
Stormers part # is ASC8110. Clever huh?
I am posting a photo.
I found it at Stormer Hobbies. Associated part number 8110. Price is $1.95.
Stormers part # is ASC8110. Clever huh?
I am posting a photo.
02-20-2004, 01:50 PM
#5789
Photo
Sorry about the quality of the above photo. I tried to post another one but I get a message that the file is too big even though it is the same number of bytes as the previous photo.
02-20-2004, 03:35 PM
#5790
Hmm... looks like it says it's 1/8 inch thick. Not a bad deal though. If I am not mistaken, I believe you need a full 1/4" to center the motor?
Anyone know for sure? Using the original L2 rear pod setup?
Anyone know for sure? Using the original L2 rear pod setup?