3Likes1/10th pan car
07-09-2007, 08:15 PM
Here is a pic of the KSG GEN2 and the Hyperdrive Pro3
07-10-2007, 08:31 AM
Although the Darkside kit is more expensive than an L2/L3 chassis (Can't speak to the cost or inclusions of the PRC kit, just not certain about it), I think that you will find that nothing needs to be added. I've tried to included the best and most common parts in the kit so that you add a couple of components (tires, electronics, body) and you'll be ready to win. I could never understand the sense of buying a new kit and trashing a bunch of the stuff included before it even hit the track. The old oval racers in the crowd will remember those days many years ago.
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Now you just need a T-bar car for those that prefer it "old school"...
07-10-2007, 08:36 AM
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (56)
Brand new L2 on ebay
I would have bought it, but i've overspent my budget.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10L2-WORLD-CHA...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10L2-WORLD-CHA...QQcmdZViewItem
07-10-2007, 09:10 AM
I would have bought it, but i've overspent my budget.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10L2-WORLD-CHA...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10L2-WORLD-CHA...QQcmdZViewItem
If it's the roadcourse version, someone should take it. If it's the Oval version, no way at that price...
07-10-2007, 01:15 PM
That L2 kit is on auction since a longer time now. I was ready for buying this kit until someone said it´s the oval version. And it really seems an oval version.
07-10-2007, 03:59 PM
I would have bought it, but i've overspent my budget.
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10L2-WORLD-CHA...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/RC10L2-WORLD-CHA...QQcmdZViewItem
I sent the sell an offer of $75. There reply. NO WAY! Thank you anyway
Though I'd give it a shot.
07-10-2007, 04:10 PM
did you explain to them that the car is virtually obsolete and it's like selling a "brand new" 95' escort?
07-10-2007, 04:15 PM
ROFL - new car prices for an out of date car. Sad thing is, he just might get it.
07-16-2007, 05:45 PM
road cars:
PRC MAX10 (chassis, top and bottom pod plates and chassis brace only (other components your chice))
CRC Pantoura (narrow 190mm car) (also has a PRC wide conversion available)
Hyperdrive
Speedmerchant speed spec (4 cell narrow car)
Darkside- I-Force
Corally CCT
Corally C10X
used:
10 million associated cars available used here or on ebay.. 10L2 being the most competitive of the onroad cars. original 10L's and 10L3T's (190mm narrow)
PRC MAX10 (chassis, top and bottom pod plates and chassis brace only (other components your chice))
CRC Pantoura (narrow 190mm car) (also has a PRC wide conversion available)
Hyperdrive
Speedmerchant speed spec (4 cell narrow car)
Darkside- I-Force
Corally CCT
Corally C10X
used:
10 million associated cars available used here or on ebay.. 10L2 being the most competitive of the onroad cars. original 10L's and 10L3T's (190mm narrow)
Maybe there is way to do it...it just needs the right bottom plate and maybe a rear pod...any ideas?
07-16-2007, 06:16 PM
Which of the bodies for road course pan cars works best on asphalt? CUrrently I have a 200mm Serpent lola body(its nice), amd I'm looking for what the fast guys/veterans are running
07-16-2007, 07:12 PM
for 200mm there is simply not much choice.. i ran a yokomo 200mm lola and there are a couple others.. i slammed my yok body way below the cut lines.. it had tons of grip... like any class, different bodies have different traits.. somewhere in this thread there was a well documented analysis of the differing traits ranking the bods from high downforce to low. i'll try to find it, and add the info to my long post.. the peugeot 905b in 235mm is considered a great all-around body.. if yo want a car that "looks" pro, not much compares the the darkside i-force.. if races were won on looks and that thing showed up, i'd go home.. that said, most of the modern converions are nearly as sophisticated..
07-16-2007, 08:05 PM
for 200mm there is simply not much choice.. i ran a yokomo 200mm lola and there are a couple others.. i slammed my yok body way below the cut lines.. it had tons of grip... like any class, different bodies have different traits.. somewhere in this thread there was a well documented analysis of the differing traits ranking the bods from high downforce to low. i'll try to find it, and add the info to my long post.. the peugeot 905b in 235mm is considered a great all-around body.. if yo want a car that "looks" pro, not much compares the the darkside i-force.. if races were won on looks and that thing showed up, i'd go home.. that said, most of the modern converions are nearly as sophisticated..
Thx TallyRC: try to find that post about the bodies and their reports on how they perform, ASAP. I think for wide, I'll go with the Darkside I-Force...its the most updated, I think- but $299, outch!!! THat's already pro TC price range and makes me wonder if that's a good thing for the class...I wonder if there's an I-Force conversion kit for the CRC Pantoura, at least
07-16-2007, 08:14 PM
Corally C10X
Anyone here have some experience with the Corally C10X?
Can the pod fit BL motors? I remember that the regular 190mm pan car from Corally needed left side of the pod to be dremmeled pretty good to get Novak 4.5R to fit...
What spare parts should I stock on? What front camber bar should I run for mod racing on outdoor asphalt? Any good staring set up for mod outdoor asphalt, hot weather, mixed track?
Can the pod fit BL motors? I remember that the regular 190mm pan car from Corally needed left side of the pod to be dremmeled pretty good to get Novak 4.5R to fit...
What spare parts should I stock on? What front camber bar should I run for mod racing on outdoor asphalt? Any good staring set up for mod outdoor asphalt, hot weather, mixed track?
07-16-2007, 08:40 PM
that $300 price tag is complete for the iforce.. it's not a conversion, full kit including some beautiful irs pieces and such. no skimping on anything including i belive two sets of diff hubs to go wide and narrow.. there is a wide conversion for the pantoura on john's first page.. not sure what more your looking for in a "full pro" kit.. i think mine is pretty shnazzy looking in person.. and my friends think so lol..
07-16-2007, 08:46 PM
The P35 is on the higher-downforce end of the scale – in fact, I’d put it close to the AE Nissan.
For max downforce, the old Dahm’s “Splice WRC” was an absolute maximum (Dahm’s bodies are now sold by someone else but I can’t remember the name/link) followed by the AE Nissan and then the P35.
For neutral, the HB Toyota is what I consider to be the middle of the line.
For steering, the Protoform 905B is great for that as is the Dahm’s “Lowla”
For little/no downforce (i.e. a tiny, tiny, high bite carpet track – maybe), there’s the “other” AE Nissan "Coupe"
Based soley on the pics, I would surmise that both 235 McAllister bodies will be towards the lower end of the downforce scale with the Jag having more than the Nissan. However, some homemade side-dams and an extended splitter can add bite to almost any body.
For max downforce, the old Dahm’s “Splice WRC” was an absolute maximum (Dahm’s bodies are now sold by someone else but I can’t remember the name/link) followed by the AE Nissan and then the P35.
For neutral, the HB Toyota is what I consider to be the middle of the line.
For steering, the Protoform 905B is great for that as is the Dahm’s “Lowla”
For little/no downforce (i.e. a tiny, tiny, high bite carpet track – maybe), there’s the “other” AE Nissan "Coupe"
Based soley on the pics, I would surmise that both 235 McAllister bodies will be towards the lower end of the downforce scale with the Jag having more than the Nissan. However, some homemade side-dams and an extended splitter can add bite to almost any body.