3Likes1/10th pan car
02-18-2004, 02:57 PM
#5761
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally posted by MarkA
I would say more along the lines of “was” one of the best bodies ever. It’s very, very steering oriented and becomes more so as you go faster. It won’t blowover at least. It's just not "balanced", IMO.
In other words, in 96 at Rev., they were using old-school 11and12 turn motors on 2000’s geared and timed to make 5minutes. On the stuff we run today, that body is a twitch monster.
FWIW, at the 2000 IFMAR Pro10 Worlds, the U.S. based drivers showed up with only that body and quickly found themselves scrambling to buy Protoform Peugeots. By the time everything was said and done, every single car there (the race was in Japan) to make the A-main was using the Protoform.
It’ll be “just Ok” at SoCal as well. Since you’ve got one though, might as well spray it up and at least make it a practice body.
I would say more along the lines of “was” one of the best bodies ever. It’s very, very steering oriented and becomes more so as you go faster. It won’t blowover at least. It's just not "balanced", IMO.
In other words, in 96 at Rev., they were using old-school 11and12 turn motors on 2000’s geared and timed to make 5minutes. On the stuff we run today, that body is a twitch monster.
FWIW, at the 2000 IFMAR Pro10 Worlds, the U.S. based drivers showed up with only that body and quickly found themselves scrambling to buy Protoform Peugeots. By the time everything was said and done, every single car there (the race was in Japan) to make the A-main was using the Protoform.
It’ll be “just Ok” at SoCal as well. Since you’ve got one though, might as well spray it up and at least make it a practice body.
02-18-2004, 03:56 PM
#5763
Re: Andy's Body
Originally posted by madjack
Has anyone used the Andy's Benz body...think Swager made it popular at during the worlds at Rev. a few years back. (hence the box art on the 10L2) I was wondering how it compares to the bodies available these days?
I recently found one and wondered if it was worth painting up?
Has anyone used the Andy's Benz body...think Swager made it popular at during the worlds at Rev. a few years back. (hence the box art on the 10L2) I was wondering how it compares to the bodies available these days?
I recently found one and wondered if it was worth painting up?
02-18-2004, 04:05 PM
#5764
and the hotbodies are nearly the same as the Protos
02-18-2004, 07:04 PM
#5766
Originally posted by Boomer
sounds to me like your diff isn't actually "diffing"
sounds to me like your diff isn't actually "diffing"
I took it apart and found that the bonding I used between the left side of the diff and the axle (loctite super strong superglue) had failed so if I tightened it more the thing would just slide along the shaft. I'm going to have to pin it to the axle now..
\
02-18-2004, 11:36 PM
#5769
Does anyone actually run these on carpet??? Just curious cause I am trying to figure out the best tire selection. We run mostly touring cars at our tracks. I think purple/grey is the normal for 1/12th at our track. Sedans run cyan/magenta or plaid/purple.
Also, has anyone found which of the top bodies is better for carpet?
Anyone had any luck with any of the IRS parts, namely the diffs? Everyone seems to use the diffs in 1/12th scale with great success. What about the graphite axles?
MarkA has helped me a ton, already got my first car ordered and some new parts on the way. Wanna build the ultimate 1/10th pan car......I guess I just like spending tons of money!
Later EddieO
Also, has anyone found which of the top bodies is better for carpet?
Anyone had any luck with any of the IRS parts, namely the diffs? Everyone seems to use the diffs in 1/12th scale with great success. What about the graphite axles?
MarkA has helped me a ton, already got my first car ordered and some new parts on the way. Wanna build the ultimate 1/10th pan car......I guess I just like spending tons of money!
Later EddieO
02-18-2004, 11:44 PM
#5770
Originally posted by EddieO
Does anyone actually run these on carpet??? Just curious cause I am trying to figure out the best tire selection. We run mostly touring cars at our tracks. I think purple/grey is the normal for 1/12th at our track. Sedans run cyan/magenta or plaid/purple.
Also, has anyone found which of the top bodies is better for carpet?
Anyone had any luck with any of the IRS parts, namely the diffs? Everyone seems to use the diffs in 1/12th scale with great success. What about the graphite axles?
MarkA has helped me a ton, already got my first car ordered and some new parts on the way. Wanna build the ultimate 1/10th pan car......I guess I just like spending tons of money!
Later EddieO
Does anyone actually run these on carpet??? Just curious cause I am trying to figure out the best tire selection. We run mostly touring cars at our tracks. I think purple/grey is the normal for 1/12th at our track. Sedans run cyan/magenta or plaid/purple.
Also, has anyone found which of the top bodies is better for carpet?
Anyone had any luck with any of the IRS parts, namely the diffs? Everyone seems to use the diffs in 1/12th scale with great success. What about the graphite axles?
MarkA has helped me a ton, already got my first car ordered and some new parts on the way. Wanna build the ultimate 1/10th pan car......I guess I just like spending tons of money!
Later EddieO
02-19-2004, 01:55 AM
#5771
Tech Addict
Diffs
I think the 1/12 scale diff we run are actually 1/10 scale, they have bigger rings for more balls, and the load is spread out over a larger area. Graphite axle is the way to go. I run my sons L on carpet, I use pink rears and real soft fronts on one track, and at another track I use blues all the way around and still occasionally traction roll.
rear traction is what I have the hardest time finding.
David Root
rear traction is what I have the hardest time finding.
David Root
02-19-2004, 02:05 AM
#5772
Old 10L concept
Hey Mark, you have stated that the older Asso 10L is greatly inferior to the L2.
I have raced against a friend who has the old 10L with the Dynamic Strut front end, making it an Ls. He has the carbon version. The chassis seems to be a lot less stiffer than the L2 chassis. Is this the main difference? I think the asymetrical T-bar is a drawback, but it doesn't really show on the track.
I did however notice that he was struggling even more than me to find front traction. This might partially be caused by the L not having the Tbar brace, making the front-to-back dampening a little softer.
What do you think?
I have raced against a friend who has the old 10L with the Dynamic Strut front end, making it an Ls. He has the carbon version. The chassis seems to be a lot less stiffer than the L2 chassis. Is this the main difference? I think the asymetrical T-bar is a drawback, but it doesn't really show on the track.
I did however notice that he was struggling even more than me to find front traction. This might partially be caused by the L not having the Tbar brace, making the front-to-back dampening a little softer.
What do you think?
02-19-2004, 02:59 AM
#5774
can someone help me?? im trying to fit a 190mm protoform chevy silverado body on a 1/10 tamiya F103-LM. i know the f103 is 200mm, but i'm after that look where the wheels are partially extended at the sides. can someone tell me what parts/modifications are needed to do this??
tnx
pic of the body attached
tnx
pic of the body attached
02-19-2004, 04:51 AM
#5775
Originally posted by ninen
can someone help me?? im trying to fit a 190mm protoform chevy silverado body on a 1/10 tamiya F103-LM. i know the f103 is 200mm, but i'm after that look where the wheels are partially extended at the sides. can someone tell me what parts/modifications are needed to do this??
tnx
pic of the body attached
can someone help me?? im trying to fit a 190mm protoform chevy silverado body on a 1/10 tamiya F103-LM. i know the f103 is 200mm, but i'm after that look where the wheels are partially extended at the sides. can someone tell me what parts/modifications are needed to do this??
tnx
pic of the body attached
Last edited by SpeedyTC3; 02-19-2004 at 10:07 AM.