1/10th pan car
#5806
Re: Re: Re: centering heat sink
Originally posted by thirdplace
I don't believe it hurt the handling. Its more a feel thing.
Something I just didn't want to get use to. So I took it off.
Make me an offer. I'm easy. I have all the parts and the
paper work from Neftech. Richard T
I don't believe it hurt the handling. Its more a feel thing.
Something I just didn't want to get use to. So I took it off.
Make me an offer. I'm easy. I have all the parts and the
paper work from Neftech. Richard T
#5807
Re: Re: Re: Re: centering heat sink
Originally posted by Bounty Hunter
Now heres a question for Mark or Richard. Do you think that by installing the left side rear pod upgright evens out the weight in the back a little. Meaning that, is the weight difference enough to even the dive in difference from left to right?
Now heres a question for Mark or Richard. Do you think that by installing the left side rear pod upgright evens out the weight in the back a little. Meaning that, is the weight difference enough to even the dive in difference from left to right?
handling last night witch was really GOOD I'm not going
to change a thing.
I plan to get with MarkA to see if he will help me with a set up
sheet on the set up that I run. To post for anyone that is interested. Witch is totally different then Mark's car. For those of you that don't know. I do not run a three shock car. But it is a tricked out L2
Richard T
#5808
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
I agree with Richard’s assessment of the cars either not inherently handling any differently left and right or the difference being so slight that it’s not noticeable.
BTW, by left-rear upright do you mean an alum LH bulkhead? If so, those have no effect on handling.
BTW, by left-rear upright do you mean an alum LH bulkhead? If so, those have no effect on handling.
#5809
Mr. Glitch
For those of you that were at SoCal Raceway last night I had nothing but problems when it came to race time. Practice was no problem, even when I was practicing with what seemed like 12 or more racers. At 5:15 I stopped practicing to get ready for the first heat. I removed my Brand New Monster Stock Pro motor, cleaned it, oiled the bushings, and put in one drop of comm drops on each of the brushes. I was practicing on 3 or 4 different frequencies. My equipment is as follows.
Airtronics M-8 radio with Novak Switch. Novak X-Tra receiver, Novak G-7 speed controller, Airtronics 94451 Servo. The G-7 and servo are 3 weeks old.
1st heat - Changed frequency to 87 on receiver and radio. Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Nothing would work. Picked car up, motor would run, but not the servo. fiddled around with the wires, it would work then it wouldn't. Tried changing frequencies, and it didn't make a difference. Brought the car to the pits and I got it to work on 90 frequency.
2nd heat - Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Same thing. It would work then it wouldn't. Got to the pits. Fiddled with wires on receiver. I could get it to work. Then the Servo wouldn't work but the throttle would. Then it would stop. Fiddled with wires and I could get to work but not consistently. So I thought it was the receiver. I put in a brand new Novak XXL receiver. Used 72 receiver crystal, changed radio frequency. Tried it in pits. It worked. When practice was open before mains I took it out. It seemed to glitch when I first started but I ran 6 laps with no problems.
Main race - Brought the car out. Ran one lap. It was glitching, then it was OK. Place car in back of pack, stopped. It ran forward by itself about 2 feet then I put on the brake then it stopped. Then it started moving and turning slow by itself. Called for trouble on 72. Went back to the rear. Race started. Pulled throttle, nothing, two second pause then it ran. Made it half way around, it started glitching, went around once then it seemed to run away, turned hard left, hit a board hard, and it stopped because the battery wire got pulled out.
Got advice that it might be the speed controller. Changed speed controller for a brand new Novak Cyclone.
After mains, put it on the track, it ran for a few feet, stopped, another run away, popped off a ball cup.
Got advice that it is the Novak Switch. On Monday I am going to put in the original Airtronics Module and try that. If that doesn't work I will try a back up Airtronics MX-3 radio.
Any other ideas? I hope this never happens to you.
Airtronics M-8 radio with Novak Switch. Novak X-Tra receiver, Novak G-7 speed controller, Airtronics 94451 Servo. The G-7 and servo are 3 weeks old.
1st heat - Changed frequency to 87 on receiver and radio. Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Nothing would work. Picked car up, motor would run, but not the servo. fiddled around with the wires, it would work then it wouldn't. Tried changing frequencies, and it didn't make a difference. Brought the car to the pits and I got it to work on 90 frequency.
2nd heat - Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Same thing. It would work then it wouldn't. Got to the pits. Fiddled with wires on receiver. I could get it to work. Then the Servo wouldn't work but the throttle would. Then it would stop. Fiddled with wires and I could get to work but not consistently. So I thought it was the receiver. I put in a brand new Novak XXL receiver. Used 72 receiver crystal, changed radio frequency. Tried it in pits. It worked. When practice was open before mains I took it out. It seemed to glitch when I first started but I ran 6 laps with no problems.
Main race - Brought the car out. Ran one lap. It was glitching, then it was OK. Place car in back of pack, stopped. It ran forward by itself about 2 feet then I put on the brake then it stopped. Then it started moving and turning slow by itself. Called for trouble on 72. Went back to the rear. Race started. Pulled throttle, nothing, two second pause then it ran. Made it half way around, it started glitching, went around once then it seemed to run away, turned hard left, hit a board hard, and it stopped because the battery wire got pulled out.
Got advice that it might be the speed controller. Changed speed controller for a brand new Novak Cyclone.
After mains, put it on the track, it ran for a few feet, stopped, another run away, popped off a ball cup.
Got advice that it is the Novak Switch. On Monday I am going to put in the original Airtronics Module and try that. If that doesn't work I will try a back up Airtronics MX-3 radio.
Any other ideas? I hope this never happens to you.
#5810
Well, with glitching......always try the easiest stuff first. First thing I would try is the motor, easy to swap and often is the problem.
I would then try the switch, then the radio(make sure the antenna is tight, I remember we used to unscrew them on people as a joke), then the reciever(make sure you have the settings right).
The whole point is to try to eliminate stuff from being the problem, one at a time.....though sometimes, two parts just don't want to work together for some reason...
Later EddieO
I would then try the switch, then the radio(make sure the antenna is tight, I remember we used to unscrew them on people as a joke), then the reciever(make sure you have the settings right).
The whole point is to try to eliminate stuff from being the problem, one at a time.....though sometimes, two parts just don't want to work together for some reason...
Later EddieO
#5812
Tech Addict
You answered your own question
Mr Phoney,
This is your problem. Changing frequencies will not matter as you said it didn't. You have a loose wire or something making a poor connection. check the plugs going into the reicever, and ALL connections on the whole car. You will find it if you haven't already.
David Root
Picked car up, motor would run, but not the servo. fiddled around with the wires, it would work then it wouldn't.
David Root
#5813
Re: Mr. Glitch
Originally posted by MrPhoney
For those of you that were at SoCal Raceway last night I had nothing but problems when it came to race time. Practice was no problem, even when I was practicing with what seemed like 12 or more racers. At 5:15 I stopped practicing to get ready for the first heat. I removed my Brand New Monster Stock Pro motor, cleaned it, oiled the bushings, and put in one drop of comm drops on each of the brushes. I was practicing on 3 or 4 different frequencies. My equipment is as follows.
Airtronics M-8 radio with Novak Switch. Novak X-Tra receiver, Novak G-7 speed controller, Airtronics 94451 Servo. The G-7 and servo are 3 weeks old.
1st heat - Changed frequency to 87 on receiver and radio. Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Nothing would work. Picked car up, motor would run, but not the servo. fiddled around with the wires, it would work then it wouldn't. Tried changing frequencies, and it didn't make a difference. Brought the car to the pits and I got it to work on 90 frequency.
2nd heat - Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Same thing. It would work then it wouldn't. Got to the pits. Fiddled with wires on receiver. I could get it to work. Then the Servo wouldn't work but the throttle would. Then it would stop. Fiddled with wires and I could get to work but not consistently. So I thought it was the receiver. I put in a brand new Novak XXL receiver. Used 72 receiver crystal, changed radio frequency. Tried it in pits. It worked. When practice was open before mains I took it out. It seemed to glitch when I first started but I ran 6 laps with no problems.
Main race - Brought the car out. Ran one lap. It was glitching, then it was OK. Place car in back of pack, stopped. It ran forward by itself about 2 feet then I put on the brake then it stopped. Then it started moving and turning slow by itself. Called for trouble on 72. Went back to the rear. Race started. Pulled throttle, nothing, two second pause then it ran. Made it half way around, it started glitching, went around once then it seemed to run away, turned hard left, hit a board hard, and it stopped because the battery wire got pulled out.
Got advice that it might be the speed controller. Changed speed controller for a brand new Novak Cyclone.
After mains, put it on the track, it ran for a few feet, stopped, another run away, popped off a ball cup.
Got advice that it is the Novak Switch. On Monday I am going to put in the original Airtronics Module and try that. If that doesn't work I will try a back up Airtronics MX-3 radio.
Any other ideas? I hope this never happens to you.
For those of you that were at SoCal Raceway last night I had nothing but problems when it came to race time. Practice was no problem, even when I was practicing with what seemed like 12 or more racers. At 5:15 I stopped practicing to get ready for the first heat. I removed my Brand New Monster Stock Pro motor, cleaned it, oiled the bushings, and put in one drop of comm drops on each of the brushes. I was practicing on 3 or 4 different frequencies. My equipment is as follows.
Airtronics M-8 radio with Novak Switch. Novak X-Tra receiver, Novak G-7 speed controller, Airtronics 94451 Servo. The G-7 and servo are 3 weeks old.
1st heat - Changed frequency to 87 on receiver and radio. Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Nothing would work. Picked car up, motor would run, but not the servo. fiddled around with the wires, it would work then it wouldn't. Tried changing frequencies, and it didn't make a difference. Brought the car to the pits and I got it to work on 90 frequency.
2nd heat - Put car on track. Ran it 5 feet. Got on drivers stand. Same thing. It would work then it wouldn't. Got to the pits. Fiddled with wires on receiver. I could get it to work. Then the Servo wouldn't work but the throttle would. Then it would stop. Fiddled with wires and I could get to work but not consistently. So I thought it was the receiver. I put in a brand new Novak XXL receiver. Used 72 receiver crystal, changed radio frequency. Tried it in pits. It worked. When practice was open before mains I took it out. It seemed to glitch when I first started but I ran 6 laps with no problems.
Main race - Brought the car out. Ran one lap. It was glitching, then it was OK. Place car in back of pack, stopped. It ran forward by itself about 2 feet then I put on the brake then it stopped. Then it started moving and turning slow by itself. Called for trouble on 72. Went back to the rear. Race started. Pulled throttle, nothing, two second pause then it ran. Made it half way around, it started glitching, went around once then it seemed to run away, turned hard left, hit a board hard, and it stopped because the battery wire got pulled out.
Got advice that it might be the speed controller. Changed speed controller for a brand new Novak Cyclone.
After mains, put it on the track, it ran for a few feet, stopped, another run away, popped off a ball cup.
Got advice that it is the Novak Switch. On Monday I am going to put in the original Airtronics Module and try that. If that doesn't work I will try a back up Airtronics MX-3 radio.
Any other ideas? I hope this never happens to you.
#5814
I just popped my switch in and it has a worked flawless since......
Later EddieO
Later EddieO
#5815
More Glitching Questions
How can a motor cause a glitch to the servo? I did clean the motor and that is when I had the problem, but I did check the car at the pit table after I cleaned it and everything worked fine.
Also, I not only checked the cables on the receiver and speed controller but I changed out the receiver and speed controller with Brand New ones.
Tomorrow I will change out the motor, and check the M-8 by changing out the module and use another radio just in case.
Also, I not only checked the cables on the receiver and speed controller but I changed out the receiver and speed controller with Brand New ones.
Tomorrow I will change out the motor, and check the M-8 by changing out the module and use another radio just in case.
#5816
A motor can cause major glitching.....blown out caps, messed up comms, a broken winding(usually on doubles or more), or a hung brush all can cause the radio system to glitch. Its really not the servo glitching in most cases, its usually the reciever glitching and the servo just recieving the glitched signal.
The servo itself could be defective, causing glitching. I had that happen years ago when I got hit pretty hard and the servo wigged out from the impact.
Later EddieO
The servo itself could be defective, causing glitching. I had that happen years ago when I got hit pretty hard and the servo wigged out from the impact.
Later EddieO
#5817
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
Ebay stuff:
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Cheap Jaco Pink donuts for those that mount their own tires:
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Could be of use to someone:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=44017
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=44017
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=3176977832
Older parts:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=3177070204
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=3177069638
Old Cobra car for the pan car collector (Taz) or for someone to have a beater car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=44019
Bodies – they look to be older versions of the AE Nissan and Protoform Peugeot but someone may want them anyway:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063
They’re baaaaaaaaaaacccckkkk – who needs some rims?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34063
Cheap Jaco Pink donuts for those that mount their own tires:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=44019
#5818
Re: More Glitching Questions
Originally posted by MrPhoney
How can a motor cause a glitch to the servo? I did clean the motor and that is when I had the problem, but I did check the car at the pit table after I cleaned it and everything worked fine.
Also, I not only checked the cables on the receiver and speed controller but I changed out the receiver and speed controller with Brand New ones.
Tomorrow I will change out the motor, and check the M-8 by changing out the module and use another radio just in case.
How can a motor cause a glitch to the servo? I did clean the motor and that is when I had the problem, but I did check the car at the pit table after I cleaned it and everything worked fine.
Also, I not only checked the cables on the receiver and speed controller but I changed out the receiver and speed controller with Brand New ones.
Tomorrow I will change out the motor, and check the M-8 by changing out the module and use another radio just in case.
If the built-in capacitors become damaged, that will cause glitching
If the channels didn't get cleaned completely, that can cause glitching
If the brushes aren't seated right, that can cause glitching
etc.
#5819
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
Awesome turnout for pan cars last night guys, it definately re-sparked my interest, and sparked Jon Kerr's interest in them as well. We both agreed that we'd pick up pan cars to run with you guys at SoCal, and sometimes Revelation.
I'm guessing I'll just get a 10L2, but if I could find a Yokomo car at a descent price, I'd go that route (just brand preference)
I picked up a servo for my 1/12 scale car, but I'm wondering if it would work with the 1/10, it's a Futaba S9650 (pretty small servo) but I cant see the pan cars needing much torque to steer.
I'm guessing I'll just get a 10L2, but if I could find a Yokomo car at a descent price, I'd go that route (just brand preference)
I picked up a servo for my 1/12 scale car, but I'm wondering if it would work with the 1/10, it's a Futaba S9650 (pretty small servo) but I cant see the pan cars needing much torque to steer.
#5820
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
Originally posted by Randman
Awesome turnout for pan cars last night guys, it definately re-sparked my interest, and sparked Jon Kerr's interest in them as well. We both agreed that we'd pick up pan cars to run with you guys at SoCal, and sometimes Revelation.
I'm guessing I'll just get a 10L2, but if I could find a Yokomo car at a descent price, I'd go that route (just brand preference)
I picked up a servo for my 1/12 scale car, but I'm wondering if it would work with the 1/10, it's a Futaba S9650 (pretty small servo) but I cant see the pan cars needing much torque to steer.
Awesome turnout for pan cars last night guys, it definately re-sparked my interest, and sparked Jon Kerr's interest in them as well. We both agreed that we'd pick up pan cars to run with you guys at SoCal, and sometimes Revelation.
I'm guessing I'll just get a 10L2, but if I could find a Yokomo car at a descent price, I'd go that route (just brand preference)
I picked up a servo for my 1/12 scale car, but I'm wondering if it would work with the 1/10, it's a Futaba S9650 (pretty small servo) but I cant see the pan cars needing much torque to steer.
I just checked the specs on that servo and it'll be fine for a 1/10th Pan Car.
For the Yokomo YRX-2000P, you pretty much have to go through Yokomo USA at this point.