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Old 11-21-2004, 10:15 AM   #271
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Can anyone tell me where i can get a piston-sleeve set for a JP PRO 2002 On-Road engine?
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Old 11-21-2004, 10:19 AM   #272
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see the Palmaris thread. $180 for a piston/sleeve/rod set.

you don't need a set for the engine I sold you??
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Old 11-21-2004, 10:33 AM   #273
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Quote:
Originally posted by TrickPonYracing
so if i plug the hole to oil the bearing and just leave both seals in and the grease you think it will help? i have often though about this
No if you plug that hole you don't have to do anything else and use one side sealed bearing. If you plug the hole vacuum will not suck oil out of the bearing and it will have enough lubrication to saty in service for a while.
You don't want to use both side sealed bearings-they come from factory prelubricated with grease ( usualy EP2 type) and that lube is rated only up to 30,000 RPM. For bearing to run smooth and reliably at 40 K needs oil type lubrication (in our aplication).
To don't start discussion about bearings ratings, please, my primery speciality is preventive maintenance manager on textile company. I know about lubrication.
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Old 11-21-2004, 07:08 PM   #274
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Default JP Fx 12t-03

Im lookin to get a JP Fx 12t-03 and had a couple questions. I read some people are having problems with the red putty, but it seemed to be when people put after run oil in, i assume to get the engine dry you just disconnect the fuel line and try and start it up normally untill it wont fire anymore? is this right or wrong? I know this engine hasent been out for that long but does anybody know the longevity of the motor? i dont want to buy a new 400 dollar motor every 4 months. and last but not least whats the differenece between the modified motor and full option motor?
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:05 PM   #275
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
It is not bearing problem. It is the way how lubrication system was designed problem. To prevent oil leaks from front bearing (which is not bad thing in reasonable ammount) on most RC cars engines engineers make path from induction area (under the carb) to suck oil from that area. So no oil is going to front bearing and it is failing pretty fast. If you cerouse to see, you can look under the carb, on front side of the carb's hole, right before crancshaft, you fill find small hole driled looking to front bearing, then on crancshaft you know the is grew right before it is going to 7 mm diameter. So vacuum which is creating in carb is sucking out oil back from that are and no oil going to front bearing. Very simple and this is killing front bearings. I can sugest to plug that hole and it will fix front bearing problem, but be ready it will be some ammount of oil coming out from front bearing. It is up to you do it or not.
Edward
Ed, I don't think it's a lubrication problem. How then that a ceramic one fails but not when you put back a normal front bearing? Ceramics need more lubrication?
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Old 11-22-2004, 06:45 AM   #276
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ed, I don't think it's a lubrication problem. How then that a ceramic one fails but not when you put back a normal front bearing? Ceramics need more lubrication?
Hey D.
inital setting on clearnce for cranck sitting in case is 0.02mm on side-it is done to keep vacuum to escape from front side. Ones your first bearing fail and shaft ws grabing crancse this clearnace grew up to bigger size. So ones clearance more then 0.02 mm oil will go to that area and next bearing will have more oil, so it lasts longer. This is my expirience, I might be wrong.
Everybody facing the following. One front bearing going down-there is oil dripping from front bearing and it is because shaft is not centered during the work ( bearing is lose more then 25 micron ( C3-C4)). So clearnace is greater then 0.02 on of the side and oil escape to bearing and further. Ones bearing changed, you centered cranck back and you rearrange clearnace setting back (close to inital)-oil stop leak.
Now, what to do to prevent-replace bearing before it is gone. When-I have no idea, it is depepnd on fuel is used-better lubrication formula-longer life, other factors involve too Which fuel?-well, everybody like what they are using. I like O'Donnell-his latets lubrication formula working much better then everything else for me.
Often you change bearing is better, doesn't mean every tanks, but at list every 2-3 gallons.
If you don't change bearing on time-shaft will worn out seating place inside the crancase and then you can face air leak, which will bring to unstable idle, lose of power etc.
Edward
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Old 11-22-2004, 08:30 AM   #277
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Hey D.
inital setting on clearnce for cranck sitting in case is 0.02mm on side-it is done to keep vacuum to escape from front side. Ones your first bearing fail and shaft ws grabing crancse this clearnace grew up to bigger size. So ones clearance more then 0.02 mm oil will go to that area and next bearing will have more oil, so it lasts longer. This is my expirience, I might be wrong.
Everybody facing the following. One front bearing going down-there is oil dripping from front bearing and it is because shaft is not centered during the work ( bearing is lose more then 25 micron ( C3-C4)). So clearnace is greater then 0.02 on of the side and oil escape to bearing and further. Ones bearing changed, you centered cranck back and you rearrange clearnace setting back (close to inital)-oil stop leak.
Now, what to do to prevent-replace bearing before it is gone. When-I have no idea, it is depepnd on fuel is used-better lubrication formula-longer life, other factors involve too Which fuel?-well, everybody like what they are using. I like O'Donnell-his latets lubrication formula working much better then everything else for me.
Often you change bearing is better, doesn't mean every tanks, but at list every 2-3 gallons.
If you don't change bearing on time-shaft will worn out seating place inside the crancase and then you can face air leak, which will bring to unstable idle, lose of power etc.
Edward
Ed, thanks for the info. When you're referring to the 0.02 mm clearance, which is this? Side to side or is that axial in the same direction as the shaft?

Anyway, I notice that for the main ceramic engine bearing, the crankshaft goes in real tight ! Almost impossible to get the shaft to go in fully into the ceramic bearing. Tighter than what a brand new normal Novarossi main bearing would give... Is this the tolerance you're talking about? Is this normal for ceramic bearings?

Also, after installation in one of my engines, it seems that the distance between the two bearings are slightly further apart so much so that when you tighten the flywheel nut, the crankshaft gets slightly difficult to turn. Almost like there's some drag ! It seems like the ceramic bearing does not want to sit futher into the crankcase which makes the distance between the two bearings further apart. Do you experience this?

Sorry for the many questions.
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Old 11-22-2004, 09:34 AM   #278
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Hey D.
You are very welcome.
When I am talking about 0.02mm clearance it is radial clearance.
About bearings got tight when you put fly wheel-in this case what I will do, I will heat up crancase to 200F and with very light hammer and wooden stick will hammer very slightly to the web of cranck-it will help to fix it.
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Old 11-22-2004, 08:33 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Hey D.
You are very welcome.
When I am talking about 0.02mm clearance it is radial clearance.
About bearings got tight when you put fly wheel-in this case what I will do, I will heat up crancase to 200F and with very light hammer and wooden stick will hammer very slightly to the web of cranck-it will help to fix it.
Thanks for the info and tip.
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Old 11-23-2004, 05:47 PM   #280
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which break-in method have you guys without problems done. im thinking of the 3 tanks really rich at wot, then 3 more really rich on track.
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Old 12-23-2004, 04:29 PM   #281
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Personally, I don't like the box color and design JP said, he will be launching a new high-end competition fuel at least on Feb. But don't expect too much about it's pricing because the main concern is still about the quality and he's trying to not too commercial, unlike the Tornados...
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:12 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
I wonder what prompted JP to produce the stock version of their engines...
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Old 12-23-2004, 07:35 PM   #283
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I wonder what prompted JP to produce the stock version of their engines...
Same as others, make an option for people that wanted cheaper engine but still enough power...
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Old 01-07-2005, 12:13 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
The one with ceramic bearing comes with a sticker. And yes, better don't buy if the factory seal already broken.
Dude..... mine are broken !!
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Old 01-07-2005, 12:22 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally posted by finchy
I would like to retract the previous statement about the new JP FX3. This motor gave me nothing but trouble all weekend at our state titles. They are a waste of money, and the quality control on the motors is not very good at all( this is just my opion). I saw 3 of these motor damaged, and another few eat conrods like there was no tomorow. So guys I won't bother buying one again.
I don't have scracthing problem, but if you watch closely, the rear end cover have flat side to accomodate more rooms for conrod.

btw... jp fx is too fast for me to handle.
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