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Old 01-26-2004, 11:58 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
It really depends... Is the piston sleeve still tight? Do you have problems cranking the engine to start? The flywheel gets stuck? Then the engine still needs to break in.

Check the inner sleeve and see if the chrome part of the sleeve where the piston moves is polished. If it is, then the engine is broken in.
Erm my MAX has gone thru 6 Races and the chrome part of the sleeves where the piston moves is still not polished.. er does that mean my engine is not broken in??
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Old 01-27-2004, 12:40 AM   #77
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Originally posted by jfc_tech
wow, do i have to open it...hmmm, this gives me worry. i usually open my engine only after fully "used"...like not performing anymore
Yes, from time to time, you need to dismantle the engine and take it off to check the condition and free play of the conrod bushing and other engine internals.

If you want to check the sleeve to see if the engine is broken in, you need to take off the head and look at the polished band at TDC. When the polished band is compleatly polished around the top of the sleeve then you can start to lean the engine. This is how you can tell if the motor is already broken in.

After that, check the glow plug from time to time to see if there are any distortions on the plug. A wire distortion would mean excessive compression or worse, it could be due to some foreign object in the combustion chamber like brass or aluminum debris from the conrod bushing !
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Old 01-27-2004, 12:56 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, from time to time, you need to dismantle the engine and take it off to check the condition and free play of the conrod bushing and other engine internals.

If you want to check the sleeve to see if the engine is broken in, you need to take off the head and look at the polished band at TDC. When the polished band is compleatly polished around the top of the sleeve then you can start to lean the engine. This is how you can tell if the motor is already broken in.

After that, check the glow plug from time to time to see if there are any distortions on the plug. A wire distortion would mean excessive compression or worse, it could be due to some foreign object in the combustion chamber like brass or aluminum debris from the conrod bushing !
InitailD, my piston (top) and exhaust (out-put) in brownish in colour.I believed ts is because of the rich setting during running-in. Will it go away after we lean the engine..........or must we rebuild the engine.
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Old 01-27-2004, 01:02 AM   #79
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InitailD, my piston (top) and exhaust (out-put) in brownish in colour.I believed ts is because of the rich setting during running-in. Will it go away after we lean the engine..........or must we rebuild the engine.
Rebuild the engine because of the carbon deposits?

While it is not advisable to wipe the sides of the piston or polish it, you can clean the brownish stain on the piston top surface or the exhaust port of the crankcase with some alcohol or any nitro blast / cleaner.

Talking about the Max, I think one of the unique features of the engine is the smooth exhaust port on the crankcase outlet that is ported.
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Old 01-27-2004, 09:26 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Well, I don't use the Tx. I switch off the Rx and Tx and manually open the carb with the throttle servo by hand !

Yes, we run it very rich. Each time, we increase the load by letting the wheel spin and let the Centax clutch engage. A tank of fuel will finish in 1.5 to 2 minutes. Be careful not to let the tank run out of fuel. During refueling, it is best to put the glow ignitor on the glowplug before closing the throttle and refueling.
For those with 3PK guns...here's a neat thing to do with your third dial and switch on the Tx. Assign the IDLE UP thingy to the third dial and switch. To turn on IDLE UP just press the 3rd switch and dial up your throttle to about 30% and leave your car running. You can just turn the dial higher if your engine starts to bog during your RICH break in. Then leave the car alone and go sibuk sibuk...
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Old 01-27-2004, 07:52 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
For those with 3PK guns...here's a neat thing to do with your third dial and switch on the Tx. Assign the IDLE UP thingy to the third dial and switch. To turn on IDLE UP just press the 3rd switch and dial up your throttle to about 30% and leave your car running. You can just turn the dial higher if your engine starts to bog during your RICH break in. Then leave the car alone and go sibuk sibuk...
interesting...im gonna try it on my KO Propo Helio EX-10. Now where's the manual???
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Old 01-27-2004, 11:00 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
For those with 3PK guns...here's a neat thing to do with your third dial and switch on the Tx. Assign the IDLE UP thingy to the third dial and switch. To turn on IDLE UP just press the 3rd switch and dial up your throttle to about 30% and leave your car running. You can just turn the dial higher if your engine starts to bog during your RICH break in. Then leave the car alone and go sibuk sibuk...
While the idea is cool, I don't like having to strain the servo in the same position for a long time.

Besides, I think you need more than 30% throttle open in order that the described method of breaking in to be successful. If you open 30% of the throttle, chances that the engine breaks in lean can happen. When you open 100%, you will surely know that the engine breaks in rich because you know that at this throttle position, the HSN (that is already set rich) is fully in control of the fuel delivery.
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Old 01-27-2004, 11:08 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
While the idea is cool, I don't like having to strain the servo in the same position for a long time.

Besides, I think you need more than 30% throttle open in order that the described method of breaking in to be successful. If you open 30% of the throttle, chances that the engine breaks in lean can happen. When you open 100%, you will surely know that the engine breaks in rich because you know that at this throttle position, the HSN (that is already set rich) is fully in control of the fuel delivery.
interesting, interesting...let me finalized this...to try the WOT 100% thing, how many HSN do i need in the MAX, LSN?
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Old 02-02-2004, 08:50 PM   #84
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Pls clarify this engine tuners out here...

The Max reached a 135-138deg Celcius, using 16% Nitro with Nova #5 plug. Is that ok, or not...the performance is great. Needle setting was HSN=7T out, LSN=3T. The carb only reached 70-80 max temperature.

everyone says here,at least, thats too hot. but at 7Turn out??? the standard out of box setting is at 4T... help me here.
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:39 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
Pls clarify this engine tuners out here...

The Max reached a 135-138deg Celcius, using 16% Nitro with Nova #5 plug. Is that ok, or not...the performance is great. Needle setting was HSN=7T out, LSN=3T. The carb only reached 70-80 max temperature.

everyone says here,at least, thats too hot. but at 7Turn out??? the standard out of box setting is at 4T... help me here.
Definitely too hot! check your exhaust gasket, it might have damaged and you are loosing back pressure and lossing back pressure will cost engine to run extremely hot! also check your pipe and coupling make sure no leak in that area too!
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:33 AM   #86
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Definitely too hot! check your exhaust gasket, it might have damaged and you are loosing back pressure and lossing back pressure will cost engine to run extremely hot! also check your pipe and coupling make sure no leak in that area too!
Is that all? I hope its not the engine itself. or maybe the plug i use #5tf...i normally use 6Tf & 25% O'Donnell.
at 7Turn out should be very rich and the temp should be lower...but not mine. i have not checked the car yet or the pipe gasket. i hope thats all. thanks mate.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:11 AM   #87
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saw the novamax 5p and the new nova pipe combo ran yesterday. wow this little engine with the new pipe is very very fast!!!!
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Old 02-09-2004, 11:20 AM   #88
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Originally posted by fuse01
saw the novamax 5p and the new nova pipe combo ran yesterday. wow this little engine with the new pipe is very very fast!!!!
Yes the novamax is a very powerful engine and the best part is you dont need to run it lean or hot! on my seden, running it at 210~220 is the best! to a point I can hang with non-modified 8th scale infield. On the 8th scale the novamax is on par with other modified engine like Mario Rossi, JP etc. but again, I still think gearing and clutch and shifting point are still very critical, not just engine!
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Old 02-09-2004, 05:14 PM   #89
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I'm running ts engine with a 2pc Shark pipe. Can anyone tell me what is the best length for ts pipe and from where to where to measure, I think my engine is a bit on the hot side.
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Old 02-09-2004, 05:15 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ravi Nair
I'm running ts engine with a 2pc Shark pipe. Can anyone tell me what is the best length for ts pipe and from where to where to measure, I think my engine is a bit on the hot side.
Just a rule of thumb, longer pipe has bottom end power, shorter pipe has higher top end.
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