the 353 09 uses part #7604 and the 353 08 uses 7602. I am going by memory but I am pretty sure that they are the correct part #'s. I will double check when I get home.

Thanks!

Well, according to Novarossi's exploded views that is correct. I can also comment that the internal parts that changed were the crankshaft and the conrod. The external parts that changed were the body of the carburetor, the head, and the crankcase.

The difference between old and new parts, I am not aware of. Im just stating the parts that got their part #'s changed in the exploded view of the 353 '09.

the carb on my 353'09 's don't have an isolated body like Novarossi said!!!

anyone have the same experience???

Well, you guys are correct!, dimensionally the the new 353/09 rod is suposedly the same as the older ones, maybe a revision the way the r1, r2, r3,... r7, strength and weight revision but dimensionally they are the same.

I know they did this becouse of 359 and 353 problem reports with rods.

I've got a race coming up in a few days and have got a 12-3SCT in box ready to be broken in. I forgot to order some Novarossi plugs but have some O'Donnel's 99T plugs. Has anyone used these with this engine, will they work?

I can order in some Novarossi plugs but they won't come in time. There may be some OS plugs available locally but that may be about it...

Also, I read this thread awhile back and recall that the engine is shimmed for 16%. Anyone know how much additional shimming I'd need for 30% at high altitude (about 5000 feet)?

Thx!

hey, o'donnel plugs should work, the OS will not they have a different taper on the plug than Nova.

but with the o'donnel u might be better running a 97

OK, turns out I was able to order in some Novarossi glow plugs and head shims. As I mentioned above, I'll be running this at 5000 feet with Werks 30% nitro.

Based on what I've seen in this thread, it's appropriate to add 0.2mm in shimming for 30% nitro in a 12-3SCT. My only challenge is that I was not able to obtain 0.1mm shims, I got 0.15mm shims. So I can either add 0.15mm or I can 0.30mm of shims. Any thoughts on what would be better?

321 Help
 

Thought I would post this here also for help with my Novarossi 321



Hey Bro's need some help here, this weekend I ran my 321 and it was a beast on the track BUT !! coming down the back straight it died on me like if it ran out of gas , come to find out it seized up on the top side the motor was running about 214 degrees , air temp was hot ( very hot day ) at 92. I took off my head and got it to free up clean everything up and seen that both my sleeve and piston are now scared on one side , I put it back together and said what the hell let try starting it , it fired up fine and seem run fine so ran a tank of threw it on the starter box let it cool down and then started up again let it warm up to 170 and put it back on the track again the motor was screaming like never before. But this is where I need your guys help because I never had a motor locked up on me before or scared one like this , is this going to last ? its it about to blow up on me or will it be fine ? again I find it funny that the mother is running with more power them before this happened and any of you bro's know what or why this happened so I can make sure this dont happened again if this motor is on its last leg. Thanks for your time and help.

Replying to myself here... I spoke to Jim with Novarossi USA and he actually suggested to leave it shimmed as is with the 30% nitro fuel. His feeling was not to add any shims if and until I seem to lose plugs. Just FYI...

Shim
 

Yea I was going to post that you may be ok with the stock shims. Because of the high alt. the air is thinner. If you go down in elevation you will need to add shims.

Now this week I'll actually be running it in Vegas (2000 ft.) but for the rest of the year I'll be in Utah (5000 ft.). So maybe I'll add a 0.15mm shim (I don't have 0.1mm shims) while I'm in Vegas and then take it off for Utah.

Thanks for the input...

.21 engine temp
 

Hi guys,

what temp should i ran a NR RX21 engine :sweat:with 25% and 97/99 plug.

thanks

With a NR exhaust without any gadgets in the pressure line it is 100 tot 120C

thanks, engine sit over 5 years:cry:, can't remember about .21 :p

Today I broke in my Novarossi Plus 12-3SCT...
I used cyrul method, 3 tanks very rich, four stroking wot, cooling(piston at bdc), 2 more tanks and started to lean it out with throttle bursts(3 tanks). Then I decreased the clutch spring preload and drove it slowly leaning the motor, but didnt go further to the max after 11th tank, packed it and saved...

So, how can I know that engine is fully broken in and ready to race? I checked the pinch with glowplug installed and it was still tight on tdc, no smooth moving there..

Thanks for the replies...