You should ask them. They are PRO....

Hint...MR607-2RU TH9/C3 or MR607C-2RU TH9/C3 (ceramic)

I am not Dino, but may be can help you.
Ceramic bearuing is with ceramic balls ( most advanced techology in bearings today) and phenolic plastic means the cage , which holding balls on their place made out of phenolic plastic. Tehre are couple different type of cage-plastic, pressed steel, machined brass etc. For our aplication is most suitble phenolic plastic cage.
C3-it is description of internal clearance between balls and rings in bearings-there are 5 types from C0 to C5. C0 is tightest and C5 is loosest clerance. I personaly preferd to use C5 clearnance, but it is realy difficult to find.

aren't ceramic bearing illegal in motors?

You prefer C5 clearance
You must be joking?

http://www.bocabearings.com/industrial/indentify.htm
#9 RADIAL PLAY (MC3)
Symbol MC3 followed by numbers indicates the range of radial play.
Example: MC3=0.005-0.013mm (0.0002 to 0.0005 inch)
Example: MC4=0.013-0.020mm (0.0005 to 0.0008 inch)
Symbol C designates larger size metric bearings.

http://www.roarracing.com/rules/pdfs/2004rules.pdf

On page 33;
rule #6-29 Ceramic bearings are allowed no other ceramic parts will be allowed in any engine raced in ROAR events.

So ceramic coating piston is illegal?

Hi Dino. Yes I preferd C5. This is one of the reasons why we use rear bearing with no inner ring-we calibrate balls and we do that clearance which we think is best for us.
I sugest you try one, I mean try use C4 or C5 instead of C3 ( I am sure on your company you can put one bearing together for trial)

thanks for the hint.... Dino..
I was also wondering if it is recommended to replace teh rear bearing also while changing the front? if so, what are the sepcs on the rear beareing for the D3?

thanks Jason

HINT AGAIN! Hope your eyesight is good....
MR6801 TH9/C3 or MR6801C TH9/C3 (ceramic)

It depend on the bearing condition. And the bearing life depend on the fuel that you using.

Dino....not sure if ya ( or any others )remember me. I had posted probably several pages back. Having problems breaking in my D5 , specifically getting it to run smooth. I always thought it was a problem with the carb but never was sure. I ended up ordering a new one which I finally received,no fault of the company I ordered from.Anyway, I have yet to try the new carb on the engine, but I have moved the slide by hand and it is much smoother.I will let you all know how things go when I get a chance to run it.

how do I tell if the rear beaing needs replacing? what are the signs? also is there anyway to tell with out taking out the bearing from the engine??

thanks Jason

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=29443

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=29963

thanks for the links DIno!!!

After changing from a .15 manifold to a .12, smoke and fuel are coming up the lid of my tank, seems like there is too much pressure?? i have tryed longer pressure tube, but no better.

My tank isnt that old, 6 months?

Any suggestions??

I just got my self a D5R, the one with the black heat sink. I ve seen this beast performing at the recent FEMCA race in Thailand and it is on par if not better that most of the modded high cost engine. From there on I knew I just have to get one. Now I just need to wait for the upcoming V1RRR to put the beast in.

Change your fuel lid immediately. A leaking lid will let your engine overheat.