thanks

Alright, I just tried it with the nova #5 plug, it still didn't start. I guess im going to have to make another trip down to my lhs. Any other suggestions dino? The engine looks fine, but could there be a problem w/ the carb?

1)Take out the glow plug,use the startbox to turn the flywheel. And the fuel should be spurted out from the hand button.
2)Make sure your Glow Igniter has recharged.
3)If 1 & 2 are all ok,then lean the main needle 1/2 or 1 turn and try to start it. Sometime if the main needle is too rich,the engine is hard to be started. But don't forget to rich it when you have started it already.

Btw,don't forget the engine should run clockwise(View from crankcase). Cheak your starter box also,the starter wheel should run counterclockwise.

Anybody know a good starting point for needle positions on the D5? It idles fine and runs good with a little throttle, but when you grab some it pukes. Is it just to rich?

Alright, Im stoked!! I just started the engine and it fired up. I don't know what it was, but it must have just been way out of tune. I'm going to break it in soon, are there any things i should know? I heard break it in richer than normal, and then lean it out gradually? Thanks for all your help and ill try not to ruin my engine!!

Try lowend/4 turns, middle flush, highend/4 1/2 hope it helps

20 Smoke

Is that the setting after break in. I allready have 8 tanks through it.

dino:

my engine is very peeky meaning it seems to not have very smooth power delivery. give it a little gas it goes real hard. but it doesn't seem to be too lean on the top end...also, much righer on the bottom and it tends to flame out. what do you think. i am running a medium plug copper and aluminum shims and 20% fuel...

yeah, take the motor out and turn fly wheel and if you still feel friction keep doing the break in they do take a while. after that set the needles and go from there

I am running 3 1/2 HNS and 5 LSN as dino posted earlier, but im not yet to tune. It was good enough to get 2nd place

I have had heaps of headache trying to tune, looks like it was air leaks.. worse one was because I moved the fuel inlet on carb, DO NOT TOUCH THIS! I moved it back and sealed with RTV and all sweet now, it was stopping on throttle randomly before and you could see air coming out of carb in to fuel line after throttle..

anyway engine did not stop once during racing today, came 2nd with 50 Laps in 20min A final. Will have a play now with tune now I have fixed the air leaks I created ....

BTW my D5 takes a bit to get going when 1st starting/started, but once shes warm all is good

hi all,

purchased a D5 from a friend a week ago,... ran it in (quick method,... 1 tank heat cycle, cool-down 2 tanks idle, , 2 moving rich tune, 2 moving half-tune, race tune, got stuck once after the cool down,...) the engine ran great compared to my OS 12TR(PT) in a small margin, but not when compared to a Nova S5. The things I suspected was, first, the carb setting,.. and second the pipe (I used the same pipe and manifold like when I use my TR(P)T, and was aimed to get mid-top end power), the problem is,.. that the engine has quite a weak top end (although has a smashin mid-range bang...) the question is, since I tend to blame it on the exhaust,... how long a pipe and manifold will suit a D5 best on a small-medium track (up to 30 mtrs main straight with a twin 120 deg S-curve entrance and medium hairpin at the exit),... and just to verify,... I'd like to know the possible optimum setting for that kind of straight and exit from you guys. (preparing to win next weekend's race with a STS )

thx in advance

Ok, First up if you have not run at least 2 ltrs of fuel though that D5 you are really at risk of doing damage to the conrod/bushing/cank! Remove the glow plug and turn over by hand to test pinch before going in to race mode as instructed in the manual... I think mine was 23 tanks of fuel, forget now but this is not a quick break in like other engnies...

Also check your conrod bushing, sounds like your in "race mode" too soon and may already doing damage. I preheated my engine during breakin etc and I can not see any slop or oil movement on my conrod bushing.

RE: the top end power.......maybe this help.
Ofcourse if your engine is not broken in thats not going to help much for top end either

What does it mean when you motor has metal shavings on top of the piston, scratches and dings in on the conrod, and you can no longer remove the piston from the sleeve?

What does it mean when this happens in the middle of breaking in the motor?

My first guess is the bushing in the c/r broke at the rist pin

I broke it in using Tornado 25%,... 27th tank today,... changed the pipe (shorter n fatter pipe) awesome,... nothing bad happened (and not wishing any, hehe) FYI, the last 15 tanks was a "marathon", temp was constant on 113 C, so I think I'm good to go,...

I dunno if I'm "allowed" to do this kind of break-in,... but I'm prepping the engine for this Sunday's race (long qual & main,... very hot & humid enviro,.. the track temp can get as high as 90 C !!! on midday) fingers crossed,... but if anything happens on the day, I have two OS TR(P)Ts lined up

oh, forgot to mention on the earlier post,... before I start breaking in any of my engine (including the STS) I did some "false starts" (starting the engine w/ no fuel,.. substitued by drips of after run oil through the plug-hole,... drip,... bump,... drip,... bump) were all okay,... but will change my habit if anyone have a legit reason on not to

is there any abnormalities on a D5?! coz I got the "pinch" gone already after the 10th or so tank,... just like my TR(P)T was,.... if I ruined it,... well,... I'll buy another one and break it in slower love the engine though,... breaths easier than my TR(P)Ts, I just hope it'd last as long