STS engines
#2281
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 236
From: texas
Originally Posted by onnetz
I agree......
are you still running the stock shims?
I dropped mine down to .4 instead of .5 but havent gotten a change to try it out yet.
are you still running the stock shims?
I dropped mine down to .4 instead of .5 but havent gotten a change to try it out yet.
The D12x is not fully broken in yet, so it seems a bit sluggish compared to the D3R, but I think it will be much better. I am going to wait till the compression comes off a bit before I mess around with the shims. I run 30% Byrons and it is temping just right with great idle. I have raved about these engines around my local race clubs and more people are becoming aware of what car and engine is beating them around the track!
To all those in question to these engines.....the answer is YES. It will keep up or best the best. Most of the time, it is your driving skills, not your engines. Having the hp is just a bonus. Make the leap of faith, or wallet and get one for yourselves.
#2282
Running 30% you probably want to leave the shims. With 20% its ok to remove .1 if your looking for more power , but remember this will trade-off some of the engines life.
I have my motor with the stock shim on 20% , which I think is a .1 and a .3 shim. I have it tuned rich just to keep the power down and to keep myself in the safe zone. I ran 10minute main , came in at 4:30 to refuel...at the end of the 10 minutes. I had 25% tank left. Great fuel mileage.
I have my motor with the stock shim on 20% , which I think is a .1 and a .3 shim. I have it tuned rich just to keep the power down and to keep myself in the safe zone. I ran 10minute main , came in at 4:30 to refuel...at the end of the 10 minutes. I had 25% tank left. Great fuel mileage.
#2283
Originally Posted by sook
I have not removed any shims. I have no need to remove shims just yet. The D3R is just coming into its own power and is balistic at my races. Funny, I even had a Delta driver drive my car around and he liked the power it produced for a 1/10th scale
The D12x is not fully broken in yet, so it seems a bit sluggish compared to the D3R, but I think it will be much better. I am going to wait till the compression comes off a bit before I mess around with the shims. I run 30% Byrons and it is temping just right with great idle. I have raved about these engines around my local race clubs and more people are becoming aware of what car and engine is beating them around the track!
To all those in question to these engines.....the answer is YES. It will keep up or best the best. Most of the time, it is your driving skills, not your engines. Having the hp is just a bonus. Make the leap of faith, or wallet and get one for yourselves.
The D12x is not fully broken in yet, so it seems a bit sluggish compared to the D3R, but I think it will be much better. I am going to wait till the compression comes off a bit before I mess around with the shims. I run 30% Byrons and it is temping just right with great idle. I have raved about these engines around my local race clubs and more people are becoming aware of what car and engine is beating them around the track!
To all those in question to these engines.....the answer is YES. It will keep up or best the best. Most of the time, it is your driving skills, not your engines. Having the hp is just a bonus. Make the leap of faith, or wallet and get one for yourselves.
#2284
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 236
From: texas
Originally Posted by onnetz
I forgot you were running 30%.. I'm using 20% and think that .5 is a bit much for sea level....
I also found that the RB-7 worked as well as the OS-P7 here in Texas.....hehaw!
#2286
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 236
From: texas
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
Do her up tighter sook
Shes not tight unless you have broken glow spanners undoing the plug
hehehe I have a Hudy glow spanner now, that one better not break.
Shes not tight unless you have broken glow spanners undoing the plug
hehehe I have a Hudy glow spanner now, that one better not break.
#2287
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,296
From: NSW Australia
hehe yeah I've broken two spanners on two different occasions to my amazement (Yes it was tight). That is why I am a little sus of anyone saying the STS head sucks (I say it rocks!). I think they must cross thread the poor thing and then wonder why the thread ends up damaged.
#2289
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
Do her up tighter sook
Shes not tight unless you have broken glow spanners undoing the plug
hehehe I have a Hudy glow spanner now, that one better not break.
Shes not tight unless you have broken glow spanners undoing the plug
hehehe I have a Hudy glow spanner now, that one better not break.
#2290
Tech Adept
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 236
From: texas
Originally Posted by au_Nightmare
hehe yeah I've broken two spanners on two different occasions to my amazement (Yes it was tight). That is why I am a little sus of anyone saying the STS head sucks (I say it rocks!). I think they must cross thread the poor thing and then wonder why the thread ends up damaged.
......(man, this sounds bad!), the whole engine rocks. I have just had the glow plug work its way lose twice. After a little threadlock, it has not vibrated lose again.
#2291
One thing I notice is the button head doesnt give when you tighten on the STS. Normally you get to the tightness on other brands and you can torque it and move the wrench another 1/8th of a turn. Where as the STS button head it seems you can barely move it once you get it down. I think its just a harder metal, which is a good thing imo. I had some leaking by my glow-plug , but I didnt tighten it hard enough and knew it.....thats cause I tried to get away with just a slight tightening.
This time around I gave it a good torque. No leaks now. I think the same thing , just tighten it more. Like 35% torque than you usually do. Thatll get the plug to dig into the metal more and seal it tight.
This time around I gave it a good torque. No leaks now. I think the same thing , just tighten it more. Like 35% torque than you usually do. Thatll get the plug to dig into the metal more and seal it tight.
#2292
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,296
From: NSW Australia
Originally Posted by sook
I have not said that the head sucks
......(man, this sounds bad!), the whole engine rocks. I have just had the glow plug work its way lose twice. After a little threadlock, it has not vibrated lose again.
......(man, this sounds bad!), the whole engine rocks. I have just had the glow plug work its way lose twice. After a little threadlock, it has not vibrated lose again.
.As Artificial-I said, just turn it that little bit more
#2293
Tech Initiate
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 30
Your not going to believe me but check it out. The OS plug thread pattern is NOT compatible with STS engines. Change plugs and your loose plug issues should stop.
[email protected]
you U.S. A. STS Distributor
[email protected]
you U.S. A. STS Distributor
#2294
Originally Posted by picman
Your not going to believe me but check it out. The OS plug thread pattern is NOT compatible with STS engines. Change plugs and your loose plug issues should stop.
[email protected]
you U.S. A. STS Distributor
[email protected]
you U.S. A. STS Distributor

AFM
www.gppmodelracing.com
South American Distributor for STS
#2295
Originally Posted by afm
Correct, and also the Picco, Mega, LRP, and all Picco Turbo based plugs are not thread compatible with STS. Only use Nova based Turbo plugs.
AFM
www.gppmodelracing.com
South American Distributor for STS
AFM
www.gppmodelracing.com
South American Distributor for STS
what I am using........



