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Old 05-14-2006, 12:45 PM   #2311
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good luck to both of you.. I will take my wd-40 over nothing any day...
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Old 05-14-2006, 01:22 PM   #2312
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Tabush,
Nice buggy - Just don't scratch that pretty green head
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Old 05-14-2006, 05:09 PM   #2313
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Thanks, i will try to not scratch it





cya !,

.
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Old 05-22-2006, 11:36 AM   #2314
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After 5 tanks of break-inn here are a couple of videos of my STS .21T on the Jammin FTE (first time i get a buggy on my hands) ... i love the way the STS did on the track (being built) :

- Video 01 : http://images.domino.org/d/57077-1/2...cha_01_LBR.wmv

- Video 02 : http://images.domino.org/d/57080-1/2...cha_02_LBR.wmv

- Video 03 : http://images.domino.org/d/57083-1/2...cha_03_LBR.wmv

- Video 04 : http://images.domino.org/d/57086-1/2...cha_04_LBR.wmv


And the best of all, the engine still have more power available, cause on thats videos the max temp was 97C wich its about 205F ...
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Old 05-22-2006, 07:09 PM   #2315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onnetz
good luck to both of you.. I will take my wd-40 over nothing any day...
Dont use WD-40 with engines that have epoxy in the crank (pressure pack cans that is). The propellant in the can is what eats the epoxy and causes problems. Every engine that i have had with the epoxy in the crank has mentioned in the manual not to use spray canned oils as after run, i am surprised that STS doesnt have the same warning.

Cheers Daniel
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:24 PM   #2316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
Dont use WD-40 with engines that have epoxy in the crank (pressure pack cans that is). The propellant in the can is what eats the epoxy and causes problems. Every engine that i have had with the epoxy in the crank has mentioned in the manual not to use spray canned oils as after run, i am surprised that STS doesnt have the same warning.

Cheers Daniel


So with the all-in-one WD40 oil is not a problem ?

thanks,
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:54 AM   #2317
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All i use is either singer sewing machine oil or 3-in-1/all-in-1. I would imagine that if you brought the non pressure pack WD-40 that it would also be gine to use.

Cheers Daniel
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Old 05-23-2006, 02:11 AM   #2318
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Tabushi, Great vids !

I dont have a DX manual to check so I dont know what it says, the 3 manuals I do have state:
Quote:
AFTER RUN: It is recommended the use of rcengine after run oil to
keep internal moving parts of the engine lubricated. After-run oil
helps for an easy start next time, protects your ball bearings and
extends your engines life. After run oil can be applied via the throttle
body or glow-plug hole. Ensure the areas are absolutely clean before
you remove engine components, enter of debris into the engine is
harmful.
Maybe the epoxy engine manuals are different? (my guess they are not)

and some info i just found with google re: wd-40
http://yarchive.net/chem/wd40.html
Quote:
The WD stands for Water Displacing. I haven't analysed it,
( not commonly sold here ) but somebody ( Professor Toraki? )
squirted some down a GC/MS and confirmed the solvent was
boiling around 150-200C and only contained a minor % of
aromatics, which means it is either a narrow boiling range
kerosine fraction, or a special narrow boiling range solvent
like low aromatics white spirits.

I've analysed a similar product, and it was around 80%
kerosine, 10% acidless tallow oil, and 10% lubricating
oil light base gade - with some additional antioxidants
added to improve durability. When the composition of
WD-40 last came up in sci.chem, I wasn't sure if it was a
water displacing solvent only, but subsequently there
has been a long discussion about the film left behind in
some rec.* groups - which is why it should not be used as
a lubricant, the film is only a temporary corrosion protective
layer.

That would make WD-40 like the formulation above.
The kerosine is the solvent, the tallow oil and lubricating
base grade provide the means for the fluid to displace
water from surfaces and, when the kerosine has evaporated,
leave a thin, protective film on the surface that provides
temporary corrision protection. It is possible that it may
have some solid lubricant in it ( PTFE,Graphite,MoS2 ),
but I suspect there would not be enough to provide any
useful lubrication - and thus should not be used to wash
"proper lubricants" off bearing surfaces, chains etc..

Note that the light lubricant base grade is just the vacuum
distilled, high boiling, hydrocarbon fraction used in light
lubricants, but has minimal lubrication properties ( until all
the Extreme Pressure and other compounds are added ) other
than those conferred by the viscosity. It is not a "lubricant",
just a base grade.

So, in summary, it is a water-displacing formulation which
deposits a film that provides temporary corrosion protection
( temporary usually means days to months, depending on the
environment). The 40 is supposed to mean that it was the
40th formulation evaluated - not certain if true or not.
Now back to "It is recommended the use of rcengine after run oil to keep internal moving parts of the engine lubricated.", "which is why it should not be used as a lubricant" and "it is a water-displacing formulation which deposits a film that provides temporary corrosion protection ( temporary usually means days to months"

But everyone has their own snake oil they swear by, if it works for you good luck I say!
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Old 05-30-2006, 01:16 AM   #2319
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Does anyone else on here run the turbo .21 other then me and pato, mines having a few problems.
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:25 AM   #2320
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D21R or D21T?
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Old 05-30-2006, 07:14 PM   #2321
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Hi guys,


Take a look at my article about my debut on 1/8 buggy racing at the Mexican Nationals this last weekend with the STS .21 T + STS pipe :

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=115990


cya !


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Old 05-31-2006, 04:31 AM   #2322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabushi
Hi guys,


Take a look at my article about my debut on 1/8 buggy racing at the Mexican Nationals this last weekend with the STS .21 T + STS pipe :

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=115990


cya !


.
congratulation Tabushi. well done on yer 1st buggy debut with Jammin + STS.
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Old 06-02-2006, 10:48 PM   #2323
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I would like to know any other experience on the STS .21T engine ?. Some guy on other forum sent me a private message telling me forget about STS, that i will get good engine just for 1 1/2 or 2 gallons and then will start to fail bearings and other internals ...

Any comment ?
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Old 06-02-2006, 11:51 PM   #2324
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Tabushi,
My first .12 was a STS (she lasted the yards for sure), my 2nd was a Nova, the next 3 engines I purchased where STS (2 x .12 & 1 x .21).

I am not linked to STS in any way, I just think they are great bang for buck engines & I pay retail prices as any other normal person does. Someone somewhere has has a bad experience with every brand engine. I too have had problems - but found the fault to be the fuel, not the engine.

Maybe the green eye monster sometimes comes out when people have paid much more for a engine that does not go as hard.

I would love to get my hands on a Team engine but I have a D3R and D5R to wear out so it wont be for some time. It would prolly only get me into trouble anyway
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Old 06-03-2006, 07:21 AM   #2325
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PAto:

Bearing failure is mostly due to impropre care of the engine. If you see closely and search inf. you will notice that most bearing are made on the same factory with the same standards. Just remember to use pleanty of a goof AR oil.

I received your PM , On the videos look great.

I have the B edition and also runs great.
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