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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 9104384)
If it's doing what Matt was describing then the idle gap is probably to wide.
To reduce the idle gap turn the idle screw anti-clockwise. This will allow the throttle slide to close more and reduce the idle air gap. It will also bring the low speed needle (which is attached to the throttle slide) into the spray bar more, thus slightly leaning the bottom end. This is why you may need to richen the bottom end a little to compensate. The idle gap / low speed needle relationship is a delicate balance. Everytime you change the idle gap you effectively change the bottom end tune, so it is a bit of a juggle to get it just right and the two settings in harmony with each other. I reckon 95% of all tuning glitches occur around the relationship between these two. |
Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 9105335)
that's what was happening. The idle gap was at .1mm which was to wide. Grizz's pinch method has always worked for me on all my go-mg engines,except this one. And I think it's because it's modded/tight. Thers nothing wrong with that but it makes for a very narrow tuning window. I can usually get my engines to sit and idle all day long,not load up,take off smooth. When I do get another one of these engines I'm going to take it out of the box/install/heat/run. Heres what happened to mine. 1-so dam tight that I ended up putting in a .02mm shim to get it to run. 2-was set rich from the get go and I think that would explain 99% of my tuning/break in issue's I had. I was always over flooding the engine. So when Trey explained how to tune this engine it works. 3-heat up to 230 before putting on the starter box. And no I don't have a weak box. I get tired of hearing that cop out. My god I burnt a groove in the rubber wheel!!! 4-bad front bearing. Thing leaked air so bad that had I put soap in with the water I would have been able to make champagne room bubbles. It's bad when you can actually suck water back into the engine. With the front bearing that could have been caused by me,{see burning wheel} Now that I have a gallon and a half through it it is coming alive and holding it's tune. I did notice running yesterday that I needed to lean the hsn an hour and lower the idle a tiny bit and richen the lsn a tad.
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i forgot to post this ...but i got 3rd in Expert Truggy for round 5 of the Grass Roots Racing Series last weekend...3 more races left and 2 throwouts...so far im 4th in the points:D
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 9105335)
that's what was happening. The idle gap was at .1mm which was to wide. Grizz's pinch method has always worked for me on all my go-mg engines,except this one. And I think it's because it's modded/tight. Thers nothing wrong with that but it makes for a very narrow tuning window. I can usually get my engines to sit and idle all day long,not load up,take off smooth. When I do get another one of these engines I'm going to take it out of the box/install/heat/run. Heres what happened to mine. 1-so dam tight that I ended up putting in a .02mm shim to get it to run. 2-was set rich from the get go and I think that would explain 99% of my tuning/break in issue's I had. I was always over flooding the engine. So when Trey explained how to tune this engine it works. 3-heat up to 230 before putting on the starter box. And no I don't have a weak box. I get tired of hearing that cop out. My god I burnt a groove in the rubber wheel!!! 4-bad front bearing. Thing leaked air so bad that had I put soap in with the water I would have been able to make champagne room bubbles. It's bad when you can actually suck water back into the engine. With the front bearing that could have been caused by me,{see burning wheel} Now that I have a gallon and a half through it it is coming alive and holding it's tune. I did notice running yesterday that I needed to lean the hsn an hour and lower the idle a tiny bit and richen the lsn a tad.
I was discussing their use with Competition Heat owner Eric (via emails) the other day, and he enlightened me to the following facts. Hitting the motor with a rapid burst of heat from something like a heat gun, paint stripping gun etc (which is what I have always done) doesn't give the ideal heating required for a tight new motor. The rapid busrt of extreme heat tends to only heat the outer area of the motor with a lot of the heat being immediatly given back off into the surrounding air, This leaves the core of the motor (piston and liner) no where near as hot and free moving as you want. Using the Competition Heat unit, run off a 11.1v Lipo, the heating process is slower (around 8 min depending on ambient temps), but the temperature still builds to a high level. The slower heating effect really "cooks" the motor, much like a cake in the oven, and results in total heat saturation of the entire motor and the chassis just below the motor. Use one of these units on a new tight motor for 10 min, and the motor will spin over as though it has already had 1/2 a gallon through it. These are a great tool, and I would think pretty much an essential item for any serious racer these days. |
Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 9106834)
i forgot to post this ...but i got 3rd in Expert Truggy for round 5 of the Grass Roots Racing Series last weekend...3 more races left and 2 throwouts...so far im 4th in the points:D
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thanks moto for the duel GXII's.:D
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ls/GXII004.jpg http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ls/GXII005.jpg |
Moto is one nice guy. Going gang busters on the products and super fast shipping!! Got the new lsn from him this afternoon,installed in the gx series carb that I put on my new go-hoII until puddin sends back my original carb. Was able to adjust fine. actually made engine run better,faster,smoother? was really able to fine tune. Thanks puddin for the grease tip.:tire:
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Originally Posted by bigmatt
(Post 9111578)
Moto is one nice guy. Going gang busters on the products and super fast shipping!! Got the new lsn from him this afternoon,installed in the gx series carb that I put on my new go-hoII until puddin sends back my original carb. Was able to adjust fine. actually made engine run better,faster,smoother? was really able to fine tune. Thanks puddin for the grease tip.:tire:
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Originally Posted by inferno13
(Post 9111645)
+1, but broke now:lol:, bought a real car today so now really broke!!:(
:D :D :D |
Originally Posted by motomatt
(Post 9111688)
Well, you might be able to drive the Truggy to the store............but then there's not much room for groceries. Just can't get away from having one of them dern 1:1s.
:D :D :D |
will the 053mr pipe be ok to run on the GXII in my buggy?? hope so, thats all i got:lol:
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Originally Posted by inferno13
(Post 9111744)
will the 053mr pipe be ok to run on the GXII in my buggy?? hope so, thats all i got:lol:
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i got my HO today!:D...and it was givin the lance special, over at RcRenew.com :sneaky:
after 3 tanks (never over 1/4 throttle) all i can say is WOW!:eek:...cant wait to put a gallon through her and start slowly dialing in that race tune:batman: |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 9112193)
053 on the HO is actually very nice. A little more thirsty then the 2072, but you will like the power band you get with that pipe.
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hey trey, dint you say if i bought 2 GXII's i would get a free shirt and banner:lol::D, lookin at buyin a 2072 pipe now if that helps...LOL
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