Originally Posted by matrixmike28 (Post 9090966)

I found that when my engine finally broke in (in the middle of a main of course) that it got very fat. I tried to retune it as I always had previously with the short LSN and it did not work well. The best method I found was what I had used previously on OS motors.

set idle gap to 1mm
return all needles to flush
adjust HSN first by making high speed runs until the engine revs to full potential then backing off about 1 hour.
adjust LSN until you get a smooth idle (on my prototype GXII it is about 1 and 1/2 turns in from flush.
make a few more high speed runs checking for good smoke trail and making sure the engine revs fully. At this point you may have to make a very small adjustment to the HSN probably not more than 1 hour in either direction.

Since doing this I have only had to make very small adjustments to the LSN do to changes in temperature but have not touched the HSN.

Originally Posted by Ruune (Post 9090935)

Thanks for your help, Grizz. I suggested this to people that have trouble tuning after going through their "normal" routine. Funny thing is that half of the guys that are having trouble switched from OS to Go. All of them have a lot of experience with RC and tuning motors at the expert and pro levels. They came to me indicating that they couldnt get it to tune right. I took one look at these carbs and said "uh... guys..."

Mainly they had the LSN WAAAAY out.

My philosophy of tune top, then bottom, then set idle works for me... so that's what I suggest when people have problems. There is absolutely nothing wrong with setting the idle gap first. Whatever works for each tuner!

Originally Posted by curacing2 (Post 9092217)

Its easy to restrict fuel at idle by being too lean on the lsn in the GXII, I found out how restricted fuel can be buy blowing through the fuel line with the carb closed.
It showed me that you cannot set the lsn any more than about 3/4 of a turn in from flush,it was almost completely closed off... even at 1/2 a turn in its very hard to see how any fuel can get past the lsn when the throttle is closed.
I now leave the lsn at about 1/2 a turn in and tune with the hsn

Originally Posted by motomatt (Post 9097172)

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...on_JR/toot.gif

I have the tools..................and I know how to use 'em. :sneaky: :sneaky:

I'll do it free Mike :eek:, just pay shipping.:)
(and any extra parts (may need an o-ring or sumpin)

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/...on_JR/toot.gif

Moto

Originally Posted by motomatt (Post 9097518)

Backplate o-ring and the one for the carb that fits down in the crankcase.

Originally Posted by motomatt (Post 9097599)

HORSEPOWER

Pro:
less friction
slightly faster wind-up
slightly higher RPM potential (not with a torque pipe though)

Con:
they don't tolerate dirt in them.
they are harder (more brittle) than steel/stainless, so proper installation is critical. Any bearing mis-alignment can crack a race or ball.

Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 9097627)

hmmm....... maybe put the rear ceramic in and leave the front bearing??