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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 9117312)
Hi Leo - now please don't take this the wrong way, but ovaling and damage to the wrist pin hole in the piston can be the result of a short, hard (ie cold temperature) break in.
The wrist pin takes a hammering if the motor is broken-in not being pre heated, and run at low temperatures. This can quite often cause the damage you are refering to, or certainly weaken that area and make it susceptible to early wear. |
Originally Posted by inferno13
(Post 9117024)
never cared for that tip! not accurate in any motor, all depends on where you pinch line to get 7 seconds, not accurate at all, fuel line, spot where pinched, fuel, have have a effect on pinch test
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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 9117204)
If you hated it that much why didn't you speak up sooner ? Seemed to work for most of the guys on here.
It tuned our team motors here to wins and podiums in every national event last year, so it must have worked a treat somewhere along the line. :) I shall revise the web page now I stand corrected on the new motors. Knowledge is power :tire: |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 9117204)
If you hated it that much why didn't you speak up sooner ? Seemed to work for most of the guys on here.
It tuned our team motors here to wins and podiums in every national event last year, so it must have worked a treat somewhere along the line. :) I shall revise the web page now I stand corrected on the new motors. Knowledge is power :tire: |
honestly, I'm glad that we've got so much input on tuning, with different approaches. What works for some may not work for others. My approach may or may not be new, but I have been trying different approaches and this is the quickest, easiest way for me. Really, all you have to do is listen to the engine and watch for the smoke.
Anyways, if your LSN is any farther OUT from 1 full turn from flush, you're running too fat on bottom and too lean on top. If you are still lean at idle, and feel you need to fatten the LSN, do the top one hour first. you'll see a huge difference from idle to top-end. If it feels too fat on top after this, put the car on the track and RUN it for a lap. If it's still too fat on top and you're close to 1 full in from flush on the LSN, lean it out an hour or two. I know this sounds bass ackwards, but the new LSN still regulates fuel at WOT. I believe OS does this too. Havent messed with one in a while. :blush: |
Originally Posted by Ruune
(Post 9119002)
honestly, I'm glad that we've got so much input on tuning, with different approaches. What works for some may not work for others. My approach may or may not be new, but I have been trying different approaches and this is the quickest, easiest way for me. Really, all you have to do is listen to the engine and watch for the smoke.
Anyways, if your LSN is any farther OUT from 1 full turn from flush, you're running too fat on bottom and too lean on top. If you are still lean at idle, and feel you need to fatten the LSN, do the top one hour first. you'll see a huge difference from idle to top-end. If it feels too fat on top after this, put the car on the track and RUN it for a lap. If it's still too fat on top and you're close to 1 full in from flush on the LSN, lean it out an hour or two. I know this sounds bass ackwards, but the new LSN still regulates fuel at WOT. I believe OS does this too. Havent messed with one in a while. :blush: |
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check out my rig!....lol...j/k..its not real..just photobucket:sneaky:...i love the green Go :nod:
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Originally Posted by inferno13
(Post 9118712)
dint say i hated it, hate is a strong word...LOL There is nothing i hate about the GO ENGINES:D
I know you are a GO man through and through :nod:. I guess everyone has their own methods that work for them, so sharing them on here can only be a good thing. That's how we all learn. |
If makes you feel better Grizz I use your method with a few personal tweaks to tune my Argus A52 with a long needle. For my short needle GX5R I use a method Rex gave me awhile back and it works great.
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Originally Posted by rider313
(Post 9122479)
If makes you feel better Grizz I use your method with a few personal tweaks to tune my Argus A52 with a long needle. For my short needle GX5R I use a method Rex gave me awhile back and it works great.
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Originally Posted by rider313
(Post 9122479)
If makes you feel better Grizz I use your method with a few personal tweaks to tune my Argus A52 with a long needle. For my short needle GX5R I use a method Rex gave me awhile back and it works great.
I actually use the cold pinch test to set the idle gap more than anything else, then just tune off my own bat from there - but I was of the opinion that the 7 sec routine was a good guide for newbies that had very little idea of what to look and listen for. It got their motors going "ball park" so they could have some fun until they climbed the steep learning curve that is nitro motor tuning. Now I have been informed it will not give good results on the newer GXII re-tapered needles, I won't pass it on to those customers. I just didn't like the tone of inferno's post that's all, but with a very large number of happy (repeat) GO customers under my belt, I'm well over it :D. I'm sure I just took it the wrong way. I'm such a SNAG :blush: NOT !!! :lol: As has been mentioned on here many times, all any of us are trying to do is help others. Sometimes we may get it a little wrong, but all in all I think we help more than we hinder, at least I hope so ;) |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 9122572)
Ha ha ha - I'm feeling fine :lol:. No skin off my nose. I know what works for me (what I have been taught and picked up from others). The 7 sec routine was something I picked up from Massive when I started stocking the MG66 motors. It worked fine for me so I passed it on to customers who I thought would benefit from it as a tuning tip with their GX motors.
I actually use the cold pinch test to set the idle gap more than anything else, then just tune off my own bat from there - but I was of the opinion that the 7 sec routine was a good guide for newbies that had very little idea of what to look and listen for. It got their motors going "ball park" so they could have some fun until they climbed the steep learning curve that is nitro motor tuning.Now I have been informed it will not give good results on the newer GXII re-tapered needles, I won't pass it on to those customers. I just didn't like the tone of inferno's post that's all, but with a very large number of happy (repeat) GO customers under my belt, I'm well over it :D. I'm sure I just took it the wrong way. I'm such a SNAG :blush: NOT !!! :lol: As has been mentioned on here many times, all any of us are trying to do is help others. Sometimes we may get it a little wrong, but all in all I think we help more than we hinder, at least I hope so ;) |
wasn't the 7 seconds on a cold motor and you aimed for 2-3 when up to race temp with the long needle?
It still has its uses if someones motor is way too lean, pinch it close to the carb and if it revs high instantly and dies then richen the lsn. As Ruune said, a nice trail of smoke means your not too lean the old park it for 15 seconds and gun it is not a bad method either as long as your clutch is good...checking the state of the glowplug will also lets you see if the motor running a good tune. Now whats the best method to find the most power and leanest safe setting for your motor when tuning the hsn. i see a lot of guys go too far trying to get the max out of their motors, you know that smell of a hot frypan when one drives past your marshalling point or your pitting next to one, lots of flameout and blown plugs. I think i'm a little guilty of being a bit on the other side of the best tune and loose a little runtime because of it... the plus side is no flameout and a motor at 115-125C that holds a good tune and compression through a race while still getting 10 minute tanks (buggy) on a fast open track. What sort of max running temp are the GXII being run at, should I be running it leaner? |
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 9122572)
Ha ha ha - I'm feeling fine :lol:. No skin off my nose. I know what works for me (what I have been taught and picked up from others). The 7 sec routine was something I picked up from Massive when I started stocking the MG66 motors. It worked fine for me so I passed it on to customers who I thought would benefit from it as a tuning tip with their GX motors.
I actually use the cold pinch test to set the idle gap more than anything else, then just tune off my own bat from there - but I was of the opinion that the 7 sec routine was a good guide for newbies that had very little idea of what to look and listen for. It got their motors going "ball park" so they could have some fun until they climbed the steep learning curve that is nitro motor tuning. Now I have been informed it will not give good results on the newer GXII re-tapered needles, I won't pass it on to those customers. I just didn't like the tone of inferno's post that's all, but with a very large number of happy (repeat) GO customers under my belt, I'm well over it :D. I'm sure I just took it the wrong way. I'm such a SNAG :blush: NOT !!! :lol: As has been mentioned on here many times, all any of us are trying to do is help others. Sometimes we may get it a little wrong, but all in all I think we help more than we hinder, at least I hope so ;) All you are doing with the pinch is de masking the idle gap and you then set it to your ear. It dosent matter where you pinch the fuel line 1inch of 3 inches from the nipple ( sounds rude i know ) Different carbs / engines and fuel pipe combos will react differently .. You need to experiemnt like i did for about 60 hours a week for about 3 years .. ( slow learner ) then average your race tunes over that period and collate the correct data .. draw a line down the middle and call it a basic tuning guide for that engine carb set up. I have the new settings already for the GXII but im still amusing myself looking at what you guys are coming up with :) M |
:sneaky: But you have an advantage over us Mark....didn't have a hand in designing the new needles :D
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