OK. Just use the copper shim out of your 7 Port (this will a .2mm shim).
The alloy shims are .3mm

Some of the GX motors came with the .3mm alloy and 2 x thin .1mm shims. You may have that, as the .1mm shims stick together and look like a single shim.

It will just make things easier on you, your starter box and the motor if you run the extra .2mm shim for run-in. Just remember to pre heat really well for the entire run-in process and keep temps up around 110 - 120 deg C with the foiled head.

This is why I waited for the Go and got another one, online tech support. Thanks Grizz

No worries I think it would be safe to say the GO GX Series and GXII´s would probably have the best on-line forum back up of any motor out there.
There are lots of friendly helpful people on both GO threads here that have no hesitation in helping any fellow GO user.
Help comes in from all over the globe, so it doesn't matter what time zone your in, your probably going to get an answer sooner rather than later.
It´s a nice feeling to know you can get assistance whenever you need it.

First outing with the GXII. Took 2nd in buggy at the Louisiana State Championship. LOVED THE MOTOR!!!

Way to go Mike

We are very helpfull in person too, I don't know about anyone else out there but I help anyone that asks for it at the tracks no matter what brand they run, if I can help I will, thats just how I roll.

Right on Flanno. Looking back at my post it didn't really read how I meant it to. I guess it sounded a bit pro-GO
Yes, I am sure when at the track all the guys on here will help no matter what the brand, be it motor or chassis .
That's the impression I get for sure.

Tore down the GxII today, looks like they made the fit of the wrist pin a little tighter in the piston which is good. Also noticed they lightened the piston on the bottom side. Looks good, will be breaking it in tomorrow, it does appear to be really tight.

Rex

I changed the rod on my GXII a couple of days ago and noticed the wrist pin was very snug compared to the GX one's. Thougt maybe it was just a one off, but now Rex has found the same thing it looks like a planned move.
Seems there is few little touches that have been introduced here and there to make the GXII shine

I have a question on tuning. Can a lean hsn cause the idle to go down when the tank is full? Thus causing lean condition towards end of tank? With the os-p4 plug installed[thanks flanno] my tune was off but I think I maybe over compensating for a wide idle gap/lean lsn/lean hsn. So I richend the hsn/lsn did the pinch test to get idle close, reset the lsn. Then as it was blubbery like double firing if that makes sense I started leaning hsn till good take off and top. But noticed I had to readjust slightly the lsn as well the idle. Am I going in the right direction? Here are where my needle settings are now, hsn-1/2 in-lsn 1.5 turns in all from flush. As for right now I am using the gxr carb with a long lsn. When I get the new style carb back I will install.

Did you pinch it while the motor was still somewhat cold? The rpm's should only go up a lil like 500 or so. If it goes higher then lessen the gap. If doesn't raise at all open the gap.

Now with the hsn at flush or near to it with the motor still somewhat cold, pinch and see how long it take to kill it. Ideal is seven seconds. If less then seven richen lsn, if longer lean lsn.

With the idle and lsn set put it on the track and run with the Hsn needle near flush, now I like to run two tanks, and on the bottom half of the second tank I start to lean off the hsn 1 hour at a time till I have a nice exhaust note and smoke all threw the rpm range.

With the fuel lower in the tank you won't have to worry about going lean as tank empties for you are already there, when it's full it will be slightly richer but not enough to hurt performance.

This is basically Grizz1's tunic method, I only changed the half full tank hsn tuning.

Sounds to me your idle is wide with rich lsn and lean hsn. One needs to learn to only move one needle at a time test and try the next needle. If you adjust booth needles all the time one might be set right and the other off, then when booth are moved one is right and the other is off, so your always chasing. With the long lsn once it's set you hardly even have to touch it, just move the hsn.

So I say set the idle and lsn and then don't touch em and do all your tuning with the hsn.

thanks makes sense. Yes am now able to fire engine with out heating. I did it once to do pinch test. Normally I always pre-heat,

Just like rider313 said.....you want to tune it to the death tune,when the tan is half full..after running a couple tanks,while the chassis is saturated with heat and eveything has saturated its max amount of heat,then put a kill all tune on it,with the tank half full.....then when you refill the tank,it will only be slightly rich and will clear out once you get a lap in......also try not to let the fuel tank lid snap shut after filling the tank to the rim....that will make any engine with any tune on it, go super 4 stroke rich

Thanks gent's-I have it running very nicely,little rich still just to be care full. I never thought of snapping the lid closed. That force more air? forcing fuel into the carb?

forces fuel into the carb..thats why it gets super rich when you fill up...it happens to everyone...thats why you have to keep the motor running and not just idling when you refill..or you will flame out( in race conditions)