1LikesGo Engine USA 2011 Thread
05-15-2011 | 06:53 PM
#1471
....its GO time!
05-15-2011 | 06:56 PM
#1472
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
05-15-2011 | 08:31 PM
#1475
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I always used a heat gun because I didn't know any other way, but now I have been enlightened
05-15-2011 | 08:32 PM
#1476
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,977
From: Sydney
Yeah - I would set the idle gap by using the pinch test when the motor is cold. This is a very accurate way to set the gap on a motor by motor basis, depending on what set up you have.
Go to the GO Racing NZ Ltd web site at http://www.go-racing.co.nz
Go to the Tech Tips page from the left hand side menu bar. Scroll down past the run-in section to the tuning section. There you will find what I am talking about. It's a bit long winded to go into on here at this time of night where I am
Follow this procedure for tuning from step one right through and see how you go.
Go to the GO Racing NZ Ltd web site at http://www.go-racing.co.nz
Go to the Tech Tips page from the left hand side menu bar. Scroll down past the run-in section to the tuning section. There you will find what I am talking about. It's a bit long winded to go into on here at this time of night where I am
Follow this procedure for tuning from step one right through and see how you go.
Hey Grizz the 7 second pinch tune is now out the window. The new LSN taper and length has put it out from the original by a mile ....
Bup Booow ... probably why the guys in the US are having probs with the tune..
M
05-15-2011 | 08:35 PM
#1477
I have been using and selling the Competition heat also, just love them. I use the 110v, just plug it in and its ready to go. (is your voltage different down there Grizz?) When I break in a motor I will leave the Comp heat on it to soak the motor and then warm it up a bit more with a heat gun.
Rex
Rex
05-15-2011 | 08:37 PM
#1478
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
never cared for that tip! not accurate in any motor, all depends on where you pinch line to get 7 seconds, not accurate at all, fuel line, spot where pinched, fuel, have have a effect on pinch test
05-15-2011 | 08:58 PM
#1479
??
I've had 2 sets of 7-port P/S with the same problem. the opening of the hole of the piston where the wrist pin goes into is chipping (looks like the edge of the hole is eroding and flaking off), exposing the clip. Eventually the clip comes off, gouging up and down the side of the piston.
05-15-2011 | 09:00 PM
#1480
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I have been using and selling the Competition heat also, just love them. I use the 110v, just plug it in and its ready to go. (is your voltage different down there Grizz?) When I break in a motor I will leave the Comp heat on it to soak the motor and then warm it up a bit more with a heat gun.
Rex
Rex
Yes - we have 230v AC power here, so that's why I went for the 12v unit for customers here. I am also looking at a mains powered adjustable supply (Muchmore Mini) for workshop break-in duty. These auto adjust to input voltage from 110 up to 240v, and is adjustable down to 11.5 volts on the output - ideal for the 12v Duece unit.
05-15-2011 | 09:17 PM
#1481
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
It tuned our team motors here to wins and podiums in every national event last year, so it must have worked a treat somewhere along the line.
I shall revise the web page now I stand corrected on the new motors. Knowledge is power
Last edited by grizz1; 05-15-2011 at 09:41 PM.
05-15-2011 | 09:30 PM
#1482
Yes - we have 230v AC power here, so that's why I went for the 12v unit for customers here. I am also looking at a mains powered adjustable supply (Muchmore Mini) for workshop break-in duty. These auto adjust to input voltage from 110 up to 240v, and is adjustable down to 11.5 volts on the output - ideal for the 12v Duece unit.
05-15-2011 | 09:48 PM
#1484
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I've had 2 sets of 7-port P/S with the same problem. the opening of the hole of the piston where the wrist pin goes into is chipping (looks like the edge of the hole is eroding and flaking off), exposing the clip. Eventually the clip comes off, gouging up and down the side of the piston.
The wrist pin takes a hammering if the motor is broken-in not being pre heated, and run at low temperatures. This can quite often cause the damage you are refering to, or certainly weaken that area and make it susceptible to early wear.
05-15-2011 | 09:56 PM
#1485