1LikesGo Engine USA 2011 Thread
04-16-2011 | 07:53 PM
#1171
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
just an update,got tank 7 through seems like it all fell in place. running rich but was able to tune a little so it sounds smooth. I will say that we really don't need to make a big change from flush on the lsn/hsn. I am 1/4 turn in on the hsn and maybe 3/4 on lsn set idle/ perfect. The old ways of adjusting our go-tecs is out the window. so below is a list of mistakes I made in order.
1-I opened the package and immediately felt dizzy causing me to babel!
2-I disassembled the engine to flush out any metal debris[not necessary]
3-reassembled engine without sealing like I do on every engine.
4-thought I had engine heated enough to start. did not
5-when piston locked in place took screw driver to force flywheel to get piston back down. While talking to my son realized I had turned fly wheel 360 on crank.
6-disassembled whole engine thinking c-clip had fell out. what really happened was I needed to heat engine more plain and simple.
7-needles do not need to be moved that far from flush. on all my go-tecs and mg-66 the needle settings are exact for all engines.hsn1/2 turn in/lsn 1-1/2 turns in give or take a few hours. Like I have stated before when I go to the races I usually go alone so all my engines MUST idle for long periods,no-one wants to try to adjust your equipment.
so I hope this helps all the people who get the new engine and think they have a problem you don't it's most likely the nut behind the wheel!!
But if you go back to our old engines every thing that I thought and tried would have been true,not so with new engine.
1-I opened the package and immediately felt dizzy causing me to babel!
2-I disassembled the engine to flush out any metal debris[not necessary]
3-reassembled engine without sealing like I do on every engine.
4-thought I had engine heated enough to start. did not
5-when piston locked in place took screw driver to force flywheel to get piston back down. While talking to my son realized I had turned fly wheel 360 on crank.
6-disassembled whole engine thinking c-clip had fell out. what really happened was I needed to heat engine more plain and simple.
7-needles do not need to be moved that far from flush. on all my go-tecs and mg-66 the needle settings are exact for all engines.hsn1/2 turn in/lsn 1-1/2 turns in give or take a few hours. Like I have stated before when I go to the races I usually go alone so all my engines MUST idle for long periods,no-one wants to try to adjust your equipment.
so I hope this helps all the people who get the new engine and think they have a problem you don't it's most likely the nut behind the wheel!!
But if you go back to our old engines every thing that I thought and tried would have been true,not so with new engine.
04-16-2011 | 07:59 PM
#1172
with the hsn/lsn seals you can use silicon fuel line to make new ones till you get the new ones. cut the fuel tubing to the width of the seal your replacing. as you screw it in it will cut the excess off. I like to put some soap on the outside to make it go in easier. but not really needed. It works was a trick Grizz told me. To me you have an air leak which is common on the older go-tec models. I would get some lucky 7 or go to kragens pepboys and get some red atv silicon sealant and seal back plate carb.
04-16-2011 | 09:08 PM
#1173
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Hey Matt - glad it all came good for ya 
Yep, the new LSN taper definitely makes a difference to the needle settings.
Like you, my GX and MG needles were all pretty close to what you described, but with the new GXII my LSN is pretty much flush, same with HSN. I´m still a little on the rich side as I still have some metal pinch on the motor, so when it´s fully bedded in I am guessing an hour or two in on the top end and maybe a 1/4 turn in on the bottom will see it at it´s best.
Wait until you have a few more litres through, you will like it
Yep, the new LSN taper definitely makes a difference to the needle settings.
Like you, my GX and MG needles were all pretty close to what you described, but with the new GXII my LSN is pretty much flush, same with HSN. I´m still a little on the rich side as I still have some metal pinch on the motor, so when it´s fully bedded in I am guessing an hour or two in on the top end and maybe a 1/4 turn in on the bottom will see it at it´s best.
Wait until you have a few more litres through, you will like it
04-17-2011 | 06:17 AM
#1174
I'm loving the engine.with the new carb this GO ENGINE is what I call dummy proof Even tho I had to move the needles a bit to get it to run at the end of it all it was not as much as I thought it should have been. Like our older models.
Looking back if I had just installed engine, heated it up more it would have fired and idled right through it's first tank. There is no reason to clean out readjust carb. It is a whole new Go ENGINE.
Even tho I had to move the needles a bit to get it to run at the end of it all it was not as much as I thought it should have been. Like our older models.Looking back if I had just installed engine, heated it up more it would have fired and idled right through it's first tank. There is no reason to clean out readjust carb. It is a whole new Go ENGINE.
04-17-2011 | 05:36 PM
#1175
Tech Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 646
From: san antonio,Texas
thanks trey for stocking the shop with the new 5 port,cant wait to get my hands on it
04-17-2011 | 05:39 PM
#1176
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
04-17-2011 | 05:44 PM
#1177
Tech Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 646
From: san antonio,Texas
04-17-2011 | 06:16 PM
#1178
Contests on the finish. Get some more track time and you will jock out that #1 spot.
I remember my first sportsman race. Me and one other fellow swapped heat race wins but he got the TQ by 1 second. Come main he bobbled in the first turn I took the lead and never looked back. He ended up with a dead servo so I won by four laps against 5 other drivers in a 20 min main.
Let's just say sportsman wasn't for me. ever since I have been hooked on RC racing.
I remember my first sportsman race. Me and one other fellow swapped heat race wins but he got the TQ by 1 second. Come main he bobbled in the first turn I took the lead and never looked back. He ended up with a dead servo so I won by four laps against 5 other drivers in a 20 min main.
Let's just say sportsman wasn't for me.
ever since I have been hooked on RC racing.
04-17-2011 | 09:13 PM
#1179
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 409
From: Bloomingdale, IL
Engine Break-in
Hey guys. Just got a new GX-5R from Nitro North. What is the proper break-in for this motor? I've been reading up on heat cycling and this seems like the "new school" way of break-in. The instructions provided with the motor say to idle the first two tanks etc. Coming from a motorcycle back ground, we always heat cycled new race motors on the dyno before races. This is my second nitro motor, the first being a Traxxas 3.3 (don't flame me it got me back into RC). They recommend heat cycling. What's the best way to get the best performance out of this motor? Sorry if this has been covered before but I searched and had no luck. Thanks for any and all help.
04-17-2011 | 09:24 PM
#1180
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
Hey guys. Just got a new GX-5R from Nitro North. What is the proper break-in for this motor? I've been reading up on heat cycling and this seems like the "new school" way of break-in. The instructions provided with the motor say to idle the first two tanks etc. Coming from a motorcycle back ground, we always heat cycled new race motors on the dyno before races. This is my second nitro motor, the first being a Traxxas 3.3 (don't flame me it got me back into RC). They recommend heat cycling. What's the best way to get the best performance out of this motor? Sorry if this has been covered before but I searched and had no luck. Thanks for any and all help.
04-17-2011 | 09:46 PM
#1181
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 409
From: Bloomingdale, IL
Thanks inferno that's exactly what I was looking for. I have a copper washer that came in the kit. Is that a break-in spacer for the head? Should I use it? I saw some mention of a spacer when browsing this thread. Thanks.
04-17-2011 | 09:50 PM
#1182
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
YEP, stick it in there, always preheat engine to 210 to 220 before starting during break in.
04-17-2011 | 09:50 PM
#1183
Hey guys. Just got a new GX-5R from Nitro North. What is the proper break-in for this motor? I've been reading up on heat cycling and this seems like the "new school" way of break-in. The instructions provided with the motor say to idle the first two tanks etc. Coming from a motorcycle back ground, we always heat cycled new race motors on the dyno before races. This is my second nitro motor, the first being a Traxxas 3.3 (don't flame me it got me back into RC). They recommend heat cycling. What's the best way to get the best performance out of this motor? Sorry if this has been covered before but I searched and had no luck. Thanks for any and all help.
...as long as you preheat to atleast 200f and let cool to ambient temp before each fire( for the first 2 litres of fuel)...you should be good to GO
04-17-2011 | 09:57 PM
#1184
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
04-17-2011 | 10:29 PM
#1185
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 409
From: Bloomingdale, IL
Thanks again guys! I should have my new buggy Tuesday and hopefully have everything to finish it by the weekend. Does the heat cycling have to be done all at once or can it be broken up? Can I run two tanks Wednesday after work, two tanks Thursday after work, etc?