I have an older GO engine NIB for my Schumacher that I bought from RBMods it's the 25R/Pro Red Head engine. Does anyone have any feedback on this older engine as far as durability and power? Thanks

It's a power house. It's a very fun motor. It lasted a good time but when it does fail it's toast. They used standard .21 rod and wrist pin in it so ones it gets a high gallon count threw it the wrist pin hole on the piston ovalizes and on mine caused the pin to jump into the exaust port. It went from full rpm to "ping". I have also heard the top of the piston giving way. This is all after many gallins have gone threw it tho. My second one my buddy is currently running and is going strong. He was amazed at it's power, he used to have a .21 3 port and the filter fell off mid race so I dropped my .25 in his truggy. It his next heat he rear ended the guy infrint of him for he wasnt ready for that much power.

coming from rb mods it's going to rip!!!! You may need to replace crank rodafter first 2 gallons. I like to seal the carb/backplate with red atv silicon before I even start my engines. Also go to here http://www.nitro-north.com/index.html
and tell them what you have and get the new lsn/hsn seals and you should be good to GO!!!!!!!!!!!

okay update-engine runs fantastic. On mine I will need to change rod at 1/2 gallon. I may have caused most of the problems by taking engine apart/cleaning but not resealing like I normally do. I received a pm]not from trey] that I may have gotten a engine with tighter tolerances. when you get yours I will say it is plug-n-play.The fit and finish on the engine overall is second to none. I would recommend that you do heat it up to a good 240ish before you even attempt to run. Thank you racer-22 and Nitro North.
On to the engine it's self. I will state right now this is the first and only GO-TEC engine I have ever owned that runs great on 20% nitro. All the rest of my go-tec's mg-66 ran good on 30% nitro. 2nd it is powerfull and super smooth. And I am only on 2nd tank 1/4 throttle. It want's to pull hard but not rip the tires off of the car. So I will keep updating as I continue the break in process.
1 last thing this will be the engine to have hands down. I just wish I had the money to start my go dealership. But I do love the new leg brace/walking is important.

As you know I'm on here often. but can't comment, as I don't have first hand experiance with the HO ........ YET, other than helping our distributor with his and the team driver.

^ + another say 25% power from mine.
MassiveMods GODZILLA .25 Truggy Team Spec

I have cycled 6 tanks through the engine. It is still tight,will not turn over unless heated to at least 230-240. The sleeve starts to lift out where you can see the wrist pin through the exhaust port.

what do you mean "the sleeve starts to lift out"????

thats how far down the piston is in the cylinder before the sleeve starts to come out of the case. As it[the piston] is going up to make compression. I think thats a little low,in other words the piston should be coming up farther in the sleeve before it lifts the sleeve out of the case.

you mean you took it apart..........again? leave that sucker together and run that bad boy!! sounds like you need a better starter box....LOL, ill bet my box will spin that sucker faster than 30,000rpms without heating it

took the head off only this time. as for starter box,this engine is so tight all I have is rubber dust from the wheel trying to spin this bad boy!! If this ofna box won't turn it nothing will!!! But like you said I'm going to keep running it. once it gets going it runs good. needs a tune but to tight to really tune.

Talked to puddin,he said it would take a gallon to get it right. So heat and GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i did have a GX5R with crazy tight pinch, i found that running it a little cooler helped get rid of the tight pinch a little faster, running it at 240 plus every time will take forever, the sleeve expands with heat, if you run it at high temps it will never loose that pinch. that process worked for me and have no play in rod after 15 tanks. keep goin bud!!!

There is no freakin reason you should have to go through
all of this hastle with this engine Matt. Every part in that
engine is having to go through undue stress and that shat
aint right. The wrist pin hole in the piston is going to be
wallowed out by the time it is broken in and then
it will spit the wrist pin out of the exhaust port. Much less
all the undue wear on the crank pin and con rod.
I can't see any way that engine is going to last you for all
the gallons that it should.
You have owned and broken-in alot of engines, so you know
when something just isn't right with one. Stop beating a dead
horse and your starterbox. Send that muther back and get one
that came out of the factory the way it supposed to be.