1LikesGo Engine USA 2011 Thread
03-29-2011 | 11:56 AM
#886
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 891
From: Texas
The 0801 is basically a top end pipe with a long header, so gives good performance all around. It is a pretty thin walled pipe (the GO version), which dented very easily and the stinger was subject to damage.
More recently there has been other 0801 pipes produced like the APlus 0801, which is a much stronger pipe.
The 2072 is the later model. It has a large volume chamber, slightly bigger internal outlet size on the stinger.
It too has the long header and gives wicked bottom end power as well as strong mid and top end performance. Very strong and durable pipe.
For the GX motors I would recommend the 2072. The GX motors were developed around using this pipe, so it has the best performance characteristics on all three GX models (as far as GO pipes are concerned) IMO. It is a very nice pipe.
More recently there has been other 0801 pipes produced like the APlus 0801, which is a much stronger pipe.
The 2072 is the later model. It has a large volume chamber, slightly bigger internal outlet size on the stinger.
It too has the long header and gives wicked bottom end power as well as strong mid and top end performance. Very strong and durable pipe.
For the GX motors I would recommend the 2072. The GX motors were developed around using this pipe, so it has the best performance characteristics on all three GX models (as far as GO pipes are concerned) IMO. It is a very nice pipe.
03-29-2011 | 01:19 PM
#887
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
.We have been running the 2072 on the team driver motors here, and they are performing awesome, with pretty good run times.
At our local track which is known for hogging the gas due to it's fast flowing layout, we have got an extra 1.5 min run time over the GX-7R in the same buggy using the 2072 on both motors, so the GXII is starting to show it's true colours now it's fully bedded in.
I ran a 2013 pipe on the GXII for a bit. It was nice, with plenty of power right across the board, and it sounded real nasty too
, but I don't think I was getting the same economy as the 2072. Will need to test further on that one.For the time being the 2072 (seeing as it comes with the motors in the combo kits at a very reasonable price) looks like the pipe to run on the new GXII-5RHO's.
03-30-2011 | 06:49 AM
#888
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
i bought and just received a back up 7R off here with a gallon ran through it, motor is in great condition, i took the head off and the guy had 4 copper shims and a aluminum shim in it???? does the 7R shim differnt than the 5R? or can i remove a few copper shims and leave 1 aluminum and 1 copper? running 20% byrons right now.
03-30-2011 | 07:00 AM
#889
i bought and just received a back up 7R off here with a gallon ran through it, motor is in great condition, i took the head off and the guy had 4 copper shims and a aluminum shim in it???? does the 7R shim differnt than the 5R? or can i remove a few copper shims and leave 1 aluminum and 1 copper? running 20% byrons right now.
03-30-2011 | 07:27 AM
#890
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
for now I would leave the .3mm alu shim/.2mm/.1mm then after break in I like to run .4mm or .3mm it all depends on the engine/ pipe temps. If pipe is getting to hot melting bodies=too many head shims. To little shim has reverse effect. It should be on massive mods web site in the tuning area. Mark did a good job a explaining it.
03-30-2011 | 07:48 AM
#892
they have taken it down. Basically what he was explaining is as follows.
The engines come with .3mm head clearance already built into it without shims. so if we add .3mm of shims we now have .6mm head gap. So basically the engines come with I believe a shim stack of .5mm+the .2mm breakin shim for a total head clearance of .10mm that includes the .3mm already built in, that head clearance will cause the engine to run cool/pipe hot. so after break in we remove the .2mm shim bringing the total head clearance to .8mm. you following me? So after my engines are broke in I run a shim stack of .3mm-.4mm then you add the .3mm and you end up with .6mm-.7mm total head clearance.
The engines come with .3mm head clearance already built into it without shims. so if we add .3mm of shims we now have .6mm head gap. So basically the engines come with I believe a shim stack of .5mm+the .2mm breakin shim for a total head clearance of .10mm that includes the .3mm already built in, that head clearance will cause the engine to run cool/pipe hot. so after break in we remove the .2mm shim bringing the total head clearance to .8mm. you following me? So after my engines are broke in I run a shim stack of .3mm-.4mm then you add the .3mm and you end up with .6mm-.7mm total head clearance.
03-30-2011 | 08:02 AM
#893
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
they have taken it down. Basically what he was explaining is as follows.
The engines come with .3mm head clearance already built into it without shims. so if we add .3mm of shims we now have .6mm head gap. So basically the engines come with I believe a shim stack of .5mm+the .2mm breakin shim for a total head clearance of .10mm that includes the .3mm already built in, that head clearance will cause the engine to run cool/pipe hot. so after break in we remove the .2mm shim bringing the total head clearance to .8mm. you following me? So after my engines are broke in I run a shim stack of .3mm-.4mm then you add the .3mm and you end up with .6mm-.7mm total head clearance.
The engines come with .3mm head clearance already built into it without shims. so if we add .3mm of shims we now have .6mm head gap. So basically the engines come with I believe a shim stack of .5mm+the .2mm breakin shim for a total head clearance of .10mm that includes the .3mm already built in, that head clearance will cause the engine to run cool/pipe hot. so after break in we remove the .2mm shim bringing the total head clearance to .8mm. you following me? So after my engines are broke in I run a shim stack of .3mm-.4mm then you add the .3mm and you end up with .6mm-.7mm total head clearance.
03-30-2011 | 08:09 AM
#894
okay we know the aluminum shim is .3mm or thousands? what ever,so you need to know the copper shim width. Is it .1mm or .2mm? I have a micrometer to measure mine. I think it is wrote .03mm/.02mm/.01mm that looks better.
03-30-2011 | 08:14 AM
#895
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
2 of the copper shims are .02mm and 2 are .01mm, and the aluminum is .03mm, they where all in when i received the motor.
03-30-2011 | 08:19 AM
#896
If it were mine with one gallon I would do .03/.02/.01 for another 1/2 gallon then 1-.02/2-.01 for .04+.03 built in for .07 total. I don't like the aluminum shim. Had one leak on me when I first got into nitro. also if I'm correct copper will keep it's seal better. When I started racing dirt bikes back in the mid/later 70's a trick with the copper head gasket was to bake it in the oven then install.
03-30-2011 | 08:20 AM
#897
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
03-30-2011 | 10:36 AM
#898
Holy crap If it were mine with one gallon I would do .03/.02/.01 for another 1/2 gallon then 1-.02/2-.01 for .04+.03 built in for .07 total. I don't like the aluminum shim. Had one leak on me when I first got into nitro. also if I'm correct copper will keep it's seal better. When I started racing dirt bikes back in the mid/later 70's a trick with the copper head gasket was to bake it in the oven then install.
If it were mine with one gallon I would do .03/.02/.01 for another 1/2 gallon then 1-.02/2-.01 for .04+.03 built in for .07 total. I don't like the aluminum shim. Had one leak on me when I first got into nitro. also if I'm correct copper will keep it's seal better. When I started racing dirt bikes back in the mid/later 70's a trick with the copper head gasket was to bake it in the oven then install.
