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Old 11-13-2012 | 08:24 AM
  #1021  
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Originally Posted by Danny Teh
wow that's a big one.....haven't seen one like this.......

The truggy causes a lot of destruction to engine.....car is heavy and with the wing design sitting so low.....it doesn't help either.
Yeah, that is a big one. I'm thinking it might be better to repair the case that threw the rod, it only has a hole about the size of a BB. It will be stronger without that long of a crack.
Actually Danny, this one was in my buggy, I've been having trouble with my setup causing some bad jumping and landing upside down bending the heat-sink really bad, that's when the crack must have happened.
I'll have to mic the case and make sure it is still round. That rod hitting the case that hard could have ob-longed the case.
As hard as it was to remove the sleeve, the case needs to be checked it all dimensions. I had to make an adapter for my slide hammer to remove the sleeve
Attached Thumbnails Arrow Racing GTR .21 Engine Thread-thrown-rod-case.jpg   Arrow Racing GTR .21 Engine Thread-thrown-rod-case1.jpg  
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Old 11-13-2012 | 11:25 AM
  #1022  
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I got spare v2 crank case I can let you have for $25.. never used, only filed off the rear right corner so it wouldn't strike the centre shaft on my Kyosho. Shipping should be like $10..

I transplanted everything into my Ninja B01A casing once that gave up the ghost.
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Old 11-14-2012 | 05:43 PM
  #1023  
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The modified Arrow GTR-21 V2 is on sale now.
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Old 11-15-2012 | 05:42 AM
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Gene: got my new arrow engine broken in and tuned per your instructions this past weekend! Man, this thing is a monster!! Easy to break in, smooth power, very fast!!! It was a little cold outside so I had to back off on your setting a bit but this thing rips!! I'll be ordering my second one today for my truggy!! Thanks!
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Old 11-21-2012 | 05:15 PM
  #1025  
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Put a half gallon through my Arrow this week and WOW better than I expected. Going to take out the break in shim for Friadays run.This could be my new favorite buggy engine, things got balls and its buttery smooth.
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Old 11-22-2012 | 08:50 AM
  #1026  
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don't be too eager to drop the run in shim that quickly.........I didn't remove mine at all.........I try but didn't like it..............

put it back.....the engine is running better and better........I was reluctant to remove it..........
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Old 11-22-2012 | 11:03 AM
  #1027  
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Black Friday sale on Arrow going on now!
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Old 11-22-2012 | 05:43 PM
  #1028  
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Hey guys well i have about 2 3/4 gallons on my Arrow GTR-V2. I was running today and it was stable but would run it down the straight and let go of throttle and it would die. Me and a friend came to conclusion of the crankcase having an air leak above the engine mounts. Is there a way to seal it. I don't have the money to buy a new crankcase and i rarely use it and this happening just bummed me. Hope someone can give me some tips on sealing it if possible. Have a series race Saturday 11/24.
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Old 11-23-2012 | 09:09 AM
  #1029  
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try this tuning....if the msn isn't correct......it sounds like an air leak......with rpm shooting very high........and due to this reason many think the o ring is toast.

The arrow tune differently.....from other engines.......since you already had 2+ gallons in it, the symptoms of a crankcase sounds remote.....you may wants to retune.....as below to confirm.....

Got to B&B at noon of Fri. Used heat gun to cycle engine to 250'F. Let cool down. Heated again to 250' and started with VP Racing break in fuel. Used Thunder Innovation heater and idled 1 tank. Kept temp at 200'F. Let cool. Repeated 2nd tank. Let cool. Heated again and started. Blimped throttle on and off entire tank with TI heater still on. Let cool. Heated again. Started and richened high needle 1 turn, opened full throttle so wheels were spinning slowly while I held a heat gun to block to keep it at 190'+ for entire tank. Let cool. Heated and started again and drove in street 1 tank with VP 25% fuel and put on race tune. Let cool. Heated 1 more time and put it on the track. Fine tuned each tank with no heat gun needed. Ended with these settings:
Idle .7mm
Mid range 2 turns out from flush at 2 o'clock
Low 1 turn in from flush at 2 o'clock
High 1 and 3/4 out from all the way in

7mm reducer
Temp 265'f

Humid, mid 80's
2060 pipe
P3 plug

Engine ran perfect and had almost half a tank after 5 min quals. Never flamed once and idled like a kitten.*
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Old 11-23-2012 | 09:31 AM
  #1030  
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Originally Posted by RacePace
Hi all,
Just purchased this engine myself still waiting for it to come in the mail and was wondering what pipe you guys can recommend.
So far reading the thread I'm under the assumption that;
2035 for all round power and good runtime
RE11 for good bottom and top end
2060 and re11 the same?
2072?

Could anyone else recommend a pipe? I'm after heaps of bottom end good mid and high plus 10min or more runtime.
I'm running this engine with a 14t and m2c 4 shoe clutch.
Thanks

The Losi RE10 pipe is an excellent match. Should be able to find one at a good price.
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Old 11-23-2012 | 09:42 AM
  #1031  
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has anyone tried the Vppro RS-4 pipe on this engine?

Last edited by Mark Erce; 11-26-2012 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 11-26-2012 | 03:56 AM
  #1032  
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Hi got a question for everyone, just got my new engine today. Sealed up the back plate and the carb with hi temp silicone fitted the extra shim and ready for my first start.

I copied some of the needle settings mentioned by VPProUSa and 22Racer, but are these settings for engines that have already been broken in?

Originally Posted by 22Racer
Race tune for Arrow engine

To all Arrow Engine users. Here is the tuning which we found to be close to what you might need.

Low Speed Needle: From Flush >> 1/2 Turn in.
Mid Speed Needle: From Flush >> 1 1/2 Turn Out.
High Speed Needle: From Flush >> 1 3/4 Turn in.


I tried these settings Danny posted a link to, ran awesome.

Rex
and

Originally Posted by VPProUSA
Heading to the track in the morning to break in my V3.

I took the carb apart and looked at all the neddles. I am starting with this:
Idle gap - .6mm
High - 2.5 out
Low - 1 turn in at noon
Mid - 2 turn out from flush at 2 o'clock

That looks like the best settings to me. I will report my results Mon.
If the above are races tune i guess ill just have to richen up my LSN right?
So far my needles are at;

LSN 1/2 Turn out from flush now at 2 o clock
MSN 2 turns out from flush now at 2 o clock
HSN Just flush sitting now at 2 o clock

And VPProUsa you HSN setting of 2.5 turns out thats from all the way in right?

Thanks everyone.
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Old 11-26-2012 | 02:24 PM
  #1033  
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Posted settings are race tune, you need to be richer for break in. I would guess half turn out for both hsn and lsn.

Rex
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Old 11-27-2012 | 03:58 AM
  #1034  
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Thanks Rex
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Old 11-30-2012 | 04:56 PM
  #1035  
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Originally Posted by RacePace
Hi all,
Just purchased this engine myself still waiting for it to come in the mail and was wondering what pipe you guys can recommend.
So far reading the thread I'm under the assumption that;
2035 for all round power and good runtime
RE11 for good bottom and top end
2060 and re11 the same?
2072?

Could anyone else recommend a pipe? I'm after heaps of bottom end good mid and high plus 10min or more runtime.
I'm running this engine with a 14t and m2c 4 shoe clutch.
Thanks
Losi RE12 works good in buggy.Smooth bottom, strong mid and still breaths on top.
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