CKmaxx...I think I know what Im doing, ive' own tons of RC engines, what Im saying is this engine is tighter than any other Ive had, you can't say you never felt the compression on a new engine so don't go there! With that being said, my engine came in the pinch zone, thats why I was wondering why I couldn't get it to spin over!

Do whatever tickles your pecker then.....

Here's a short update on this, I replaced the o-ring in the crank case with a Go engine o-ring, and this now protrudes about .5mm like it should. I used a 90-degree angle shaped sharp pointy pick tool to remove it, cost me €2 to buy a set of four of these picks at one of these multi-shops the chinese got everywhere in the city, you know the kind, sells everything from tools to stationary and clothing.
At the same time I had a Novarossi with a terminal condition, so I fitted the carb from that in it
When I inserted it in the crankcase, it now stops at where the o-ring is, and then I squeezed it in further, so I think this new Go engine o-ring did the trick.
This o-ring is part number "Go or-0004".
I also fitted the Go engine o-ring for the backplate. The backplate now goes in real hard, so obviously this seals up well.

Stuck the 0.1mm shim in for break in. And then I spent a good 45 minutes filing off the rear right corner of the mounts so it will fit a kyosho
As soon as the rain lets off I'll be breaking it in

I have to say when I had it apart I thought there could have been more presicion in the rod/crankpin, having had Novarossi's apart they are a much tighter fit you have to tease the rod off there, but this one it's almost like it had a bit of play already.

All ive got to say is Gene Hickerson and VpProUsa is absolutly awesome. Had little issue this weekend,But came back with my older Arrow finished 10th in Amain pretty good considering my problem. Talked to Gene, man that guy is awesome,took care of everything. These motors are great,Ive raced in 100 plus degree high humidity Georgia heat and now really cold damp nites, and they dont miss a beat! Just wanted to give the guys at VPPro and big thank you! Curt

From what I read so far this engine is worth looking into. I may get one for my revo. What pull start will fit it? And will it fit in the stock revo motor mount?

I doubt that you'll find a pullstart. Maybe, but I doubt it. It is also considered a big block, so it won't fit the stock mount.

Hi all,
Just purchased this engine myself still waiting for it to come in the mail and was wondering what pipe you guys can recommend.
So far reading the thread I'm under the assumption that;
2035 for all round power and good runtime
RE11 for good bottom and top end
2060 and re11 the same?
2072?

Could anyone else recommend a pipe? I'm after heaps of bottom end good mid and high plus 10min or more runtime.
I'm running this engine with a 14t and m2c 4 shoe clutch.
Thanks

We have try many pipe but no success. The OS 2060 deem best for this engine.......getting it super efficient in run time and consistent engine performance with no mysterious flame out.

Set the clutch 1.0 X 4 on your clutch......run 7/7.5 mm venturi and you will get about 10 mins minimum runtime.......

Tuning is easy but watch the mid speed need as mentioned by Gene in previous posting.

If you ignore that, the engine will run super erratic with idling speed going high and unable to drop back to idle speed after couple of rounds.

Hi,
Thanks for the reply. That pipe though 2060 is a little expensive. Is there any other alternative besides the 2060? Could someone please comment on the pipes i mentioned.

"2035 for all round power and good runtime
RE11 for good bottom and top end
2060 and re11 the same?
2072?"

2035 doesn't sing in tune, re11 is older OS 2050.......both pipe....not compatible with this engine......

OS 2060 is expensive, option would be a used one more viable. as OS pipe is super hard and not possible to destroy one.....thats explain the price...and its quality.

Performance with it......silky smooth, very easy to drive and that help with the runtime.......tuning window bigger and ease of tuning.

2058 is still a great pipe to use. No way you wouldn't be impressed with it.

Thanks for the info guys. After reading at least 15+ pages of this thread I think the best choice is the 2060 pipe. Picked one up for 147usd off eBay. And couldn't be happier I spent the extra cash for a quality pipe. Now I'm extra eager to get it/test it.

Well, I've broke two crankcases in as many months. The first one was in my truggy and the rod decided to leave the crank at top speed going down the strait. Not the sound you want to hear. 30,000 rpm to 0 in a millisecond. The rod punched a hole in the case.
Now, just this evening, I was replacing the rear bearing and con-rod in my buggy Arrow and pulled the bearing and was cleaning the case and what do you think I found...

A crack on the inside running along the motor mount. You have to zoom in to see it.
Now I'm down to one Arrow left that's in my truggy that replaced the thrown rod motor and it was involved in a wot run away with less than a gallon on it. Needless I could and did remove the break-in shim after that
I think I'm gonna try to repair it, weld the outside and grind smooth. I'll see if it will hold up. I like these engines, I bought three before they were available to the general public from Jaz240.
I guess I'll have to throw my backup motor till I get this worked out.
Cheers
Brian

wow that's a big one.....haven't seen one like this.......

The truggy causes a lot of destruction to engine.....car is heavy and with the wing design sitting so low.....it doesn't help either.

Good choice......my opinion.

Not there isn't any other pipe out there. But once you hook yourself to a OS 2060, you never look another pipe again for it's performance, durability and quality.........