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Old 09-10-2012 | 07:06 PM
  #976  
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Originally Posted by Rsickles
Yes!
So im assuming the arrow doesnt have an oiling hole on the stock conrod?
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Old 09-10-2012 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by kman16jr
So im assuming the arrow doesnt have an oiling hole on the stock conrod?
They both do.
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Old 09-10-2012 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Rsickles
They both do.
So is there an advantage of the xzb rod versus the stock or is it just just another alternative?
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Old 09-10-2012 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kman16jr
So is there an advantage of the xzb rod versus the stock or is it just just another alternative?
Bushing is better fit and lasts much longer, IMO. That'd be the reason. The OS rod is a little lighter, but I highly doubt anyone would notice a difference.
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Old 09-10-2012 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Rsickles
Bushing is better fit and lasts much longer, IMO. That'd be the reason. The OS rod is a little lighter, but I highly doubt anyone would notice a difference.
ok so the one from the new speed or the blue head xzb?
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Old 09-10-2012 | 08:47 PM
  #981  
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Originally Posted by kman16jr
ok so the one from the new speed or the blue head xzb?
They are all the same.
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Old 09-10-2012 | 08:50 PM
  #982  
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Originally Posted by VPProUSA
They are all the same.
Ok thanks gene,i might be getting the arrow and the 2060 pipe,also the 4shoe clutch and possibly a different rod depending on how long the stock one lasts.Once i get rid of the few cars i dont use its on
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Old 10-01-2012 | 03:24 AM
  #983  
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Just finish our yesterday nationals.

The Arrow V3 ran awesome.....2060 & 7 mm venturi did the trick......11 mins runtime. No refuel in 10 mins qualifying.
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Old 10-07-2012 | 09:41 AM
  #984  
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good run danny teh
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Old 10-07-2012 | 11:00 PM
  #985  
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good run danny teh
Yes......the motor is consistent.......
Some dude put a complete p/s/l into a Ninja B01 and it went even faster.

I have no idea though.......will pop in a crank shaft B01 since i got one.
And see if it is better...........

DT

---------------------------------------------

New Arrow Heatsink..........it is stronger now.......
It is good to see.......the manufacturer respond quickly to request.....

Thumbs up !
Attached Thumbnails Arrow Racing GTR .21 Engine Thread-new-arrow-heat-sink.jpg  
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Old 10-08-2012 | 10:13 AM
  #986  
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Originally Posted by Danny Teh
Yes......the motor is consistent.......
Some dude put a complete p/s/l into a Ninja B01 and it went even faster.

I have no idea though.......will pop in a crank shaft B01 since i got one.
And see if it is better...........

DT

---------------------------------------------

New Arrow Heatsink..........it is stronger now.......
It is good to see.......the manufacturer respond quickly to request.....

Thumbs up !
The VZB Speed crankshaft gives more bottom end to the GTR-21. The Ninja crank gives even more all around power - perfect for truggy.
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Old 10-09-2012 | 12:25 AM
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The VZB Speed crankshaft gives more bottom end to the GTR-21. The Ninja crank gives even more all around power - perfect for truggy.
Thanks......Gene......

Great tip........I might run the Ninja shaft on super size track.............the GTR shaft on track which have plenty of jump.......

DT
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Old 10-09-2012 | 02:29 PM
  #988  
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Originally Posted by 22Racer
Race tune for Arrow engine

To all Arrow Engine users. Here is the tuning which we found to be close to what you might need.

Low Speed Needle: From Flush >> 1/2 Turn in.
Mid Speed Needle: From Flush >> 1 1/2 Turn Out.
High Speed Needle: From Flush >> 1 3/4 Turn in.


I tried these settings Danny posted a link to, ran awesome.

Rex
Really glad I read your post. I started the break in on the box and then on the ground running in a few figure of eights. The problem was that if kept on cutting.
Started with flush needles at 2 o'clock and it kept on cutting. Thought it was to rich and started to lean the high and low needles, but still cut. Tried a nova carb, but still the same. I then read your post about the mid needle setting and put it
1 1/2 out from flush. I set the high and low needles to your settings also. All I can say is what a difference. Very strong performance, good temps and no cuts.

Has anyone else tried this on the mid needle? Most people say flush 2 o'clock, but this did not work for me.
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Old 10-09-2012 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by gio2174
Really glad I read your post. I started the break in on the box and then on the ground running in a few figure of eights. The problem was that if kept on cutting.
Started with flush needles at 2 o'clock and it kept on cutting. Thought it was to rich and started to lean the high and low needles, but still cut. Tried a nova carb, but still the same. I then read your post about the mid needle setting and put it
1 1/2 out from flush. I set the high and low needles to your settings also. All I can say is what a difference. Very strong performance, good temps and no cuts.

Has anyone else tried this on the mid needle? Most people say flush 2 o'clock, but this did not work for me.
With some other brand motors I set the idle gap at .7mm. When I run it and set the lsn fairly lean to get a good idle it cuts out in the mid range. What happens is with the long lsn it is reducing fuel in the mid range also. The mid needle adjustment is just backing off the spraybar the fuel comes out.

Rex
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Old 10-11-2012 | 08:55 PM
  #990  
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Heading to the track in the morning to break in my V3.

I took the carb apart and looked at all the neddles. I am starting with this:
Idle gap - .6mm
High - 2.5 out
Low - 1 turn in at noon
Mid - 2 turn out from flush at 2 o'clock

That looks like the best settings to me. I will report my results Mon.
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