Arrow Racing GTR .21 Engine Thread
08-23-2012 | 08:56 PM
#948
Tech Initiate
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 26
From: Georgia
Break In Time
Just got the first 4 tanks idled through the New Arrow GTR 21 V3 Moddified version. Started up with a little heat help and slight idle adjustment didnt miss a beat for 4 tanks idled on the box. Tommorrw time to set it down on the ground and put it under a slight load for somemore break in. Has anyone got the new Moddified from Hobby Pro yet? I hear a lot of talk about the stock one just havent heard anything on the moddified by Shook Machining. Good luck everybody, so far Arrow has thumbs up!!!
08-24-2012 | 04:31 PM
#951
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
From: Florida
08-25-2012 | 10:41 PM
#953
Last edited by James khoo; 08-25-2012 at 11:04 PM.
08-30-2012 | 07:18 AM
#954
Just finished the FEMCA Race in Pattaya, Thailand.
It is the same venue of the World Champs 2012, which is famous for being hard on cars and equipment.
I qualify 1 place out from the quarter finals...start in 1/8th Final..( BLAST ) and when I am up to P2 during the finals looking good to proceed to 1/4th Finals, my Arrow engine suffer 3 mysterious flame out. But this is not due mechanical or the engine issue. But my mechanic got too excited and loosen my plug with a glow heater........
That's racing.....
The Arrow engine didn't give me problem in my qualifying heats....no flame out, super consistent, responsive and fast down the very long straight of Pattaya track.
It is the same venue of the World Champs 2012, which is famous for being hard on cars and equipment.
I qualify 1 place out from the quarter finals...start in 1/8th Final..( BLAST ) and when I am up to P2 during the finals looking good to proceed to 1/4th Finals, my Arrow engine suffer 3 mysterious flame out. But this is not due mechanical or the engine issue. But my mechanic got too excited and loosen my plug with a glow heater........
That's racing.....The Arrow engine didn't give me problem in my qualifying heats....no flame out, super consistent, responsive and fast down the very long straight of Pattaya track.
08-31-2012 | 04:09 PM
#955
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,628
Guys, what is the best way to replace the front o-ring in the carb-hole?
Took the carb out and it seemed to just almost fall out with no resistance.
When sticking the carb back in, it just slotted right in there with no resistance.
My experience from other engines is that there is some resistance from the o-ring sticking the carb back in the hole. This leads me to believe that the O-ring might be excessively enlarged or that it is dried out / hardened so much that it does not properly seal.
Does anyone have a good trick for replacing it?
This is a new V2 engine.
Should an OS O-ring fit? I was thinking to maybe bend a sewing needle into a hook and sort of hook the old o-ring out of there, what do you reckon?
Took the carb out and it seemed to just almost fall out with no resistance.
When sticking the carb back in, it just slotted right in there with no resistance.
My experience from other engines is that there is some resistance from the o-ring sticking the carb back in the hole. This leads me to believe that the O-ring might be excessively enlarged or that it is dried out / hardened so much that it does not properly seal.
Does anyone have a good trick for replacing it?
This is a new V2 engine.
Should an OS O-ring fit? I was thinking to maybe bend a sewing needle into a hook and sort of hook the old o-ring out of there, what do you reckon?
08-31-2012 | 04:26 PM
#956
Guys, what is the best way to replace the front o-ring in the carb-hole?
Took the carb out and it seemed to just almost fall out with no resistance.
When sticking the carb back in, it just slotted right in there with no resistance.
My experience from other engines is that there is some resistance from the o-ring sticking the carb back in the hole. This leads me to believe that the O-ring might be excessively enlarged or that it is dried out / hardened so much that it does not properly seal.
Does anyone have a good trick for replacing it?
This is a new V2 engine.
Should an OS O-ring fit? I was thinking to maybe bend a sewing needle into a hook and sort of hook the old o-ring out of there, what do you reckon?
Took the carb out and it seemed to just almost fall out with no resistance.
When sticking the carb back in, it just slotted right in there with no resistance.
My experience from other engines is that there is some resistance from the o-ring sticking the carb back in the hole. This leads me to believe that the O-ring might be excessively enlarged or that it is dried out / hardened so much that it does not properly seal.
Does anyone have a good trick for replacing it?
This is a new V2 engine.
Should an OS O-ring fit? I was thinking to maybe bend a sewing needle into a hook and sort of hook the old o-ring out of there, what do you reckon?
I usually just get them out with a hobby knife. Not positive but most manufacturers use the same size o-ring, the carb diameter is the same.
Rex
08-31-2012 | 05:24 PM
#958
Tech Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,628
I did some more checking, and on the crank case of a Go Engine, the O-ring clearly protrudes about .5mm or maybe more, from the case. If you stick a hex driver down there it will stop on the O-ring.
However on the Arrow it did not protrude at all, and the hex driver does not catch on the O-ring.
So basicly the O-ring in my Arrow crank case is useless
I wouldn't want to try and run it like this.
I also noticed that the large O-ring on the back plate doesn't seem to be any good either. Did they all come like this? Like I said this is a new engine.
However on the Arrow it did not protrude at all, and the hex driver does not catch on the O-ring.
So basicly the O-ring in my Arrow crank case is useless
I wouldn't want to try and run it like this.
I also noticed that the large O-ring on the back plate doesn't seem to be any good either. Did they all come like this? Like I said this is a new engine.
09-01-2012 | 03:14 AM
#959
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 189
From: norway
I did some more checking, and on the crank case of a Go Engine, the O-ring clearly protrudes about .5mm or maybe more, from the case. If you stick a hex driver down there it will stop on the O-ring.
However on the Arrow it did not protrude at all, and the hex driver does not catch on the O-ring.
So basicly the O-ring in my Arrow crank case is useless
I wouldn't want to try and run it like this.
I also noticed that the large O-ring on the back plate doesn't seem to be any good either. Did they all come like this? Like I said this is a new engine.
However on the Arrow it did not protrude at all, and the hex driver does not catch on the O-ring.
So basicly the O-ring in my Arrow crank case is useless
I wouldn't want to try and run it like this.
I also noticed that the large O-ring on the back plate doesn't seem to be any good either. Did they all come like this? Like I said this is a new engine.
The carb is a normal tight fit and the oring is good.
did even try the carb in the nova 21Btt.And it was wery good and easy to adjust.No worrys there
09-01-2012 | 09:12 AM
#960
I did some more checking, and on the crank case of a Go Engine, the O-ring clearly protrudes about .5mm or maybe more, from the case. If you stick a hex driver down there it will stop on the O-ring.
However on the Arrow it did not protrude at all, and the hex driver does not catch on the O-ring.
So basicly the O-ring in my Arrow crank case is useless
I wouldn't want to try and run it like this.
I also noticed that the large O-ring on the back plate doesn't seem to be any good either. Did they all come like this? Like I said this is a new engine.
However on the Arrow it did not protrude at all, and the hex driver does not catch on the O-ring.
So basicly the O-ring in my Arrow crank case is useless
I wouldn't want to try and run it like this.
I also noticed that the large O-ring on the back plate doesn't seem to be any good either. Did they all come like this? Like I said this is a new engine.
Rex