hi

did barrow this picture of an bullit.
The underside of this looks like the novarossi.

The Arrow crankcase is very similar to a OS Vspec. Like in the past, many too broke the crank case. To be honest. Many said the case is too thin. Like you can see, even a Bullit with a stronger case......may have broken case in some way.

OS didn't change much over the years. They leave the case quite thin unlike Novarossi.

There are numerous case about drivers breaking the crank case. Not just the OS.....but other cars too..........breaking the crankcase ears are pretty common in offroad racing.

The main culprit behind crack crank case is chassis flex. You notice when your clutch bell area there is a dent on it. You also notice clutch bell bearing especially the front one spoil faster than the one inside.

I have a friend who run Novarossi, and his reluctant to run a aluminium torque rod in his car sacrificing performance for reliability. Crack 2 crank case from the inside near the main bearings.

Also contribute to chassis flex is worn out chassis especially the rear. Creating even more flex than one could imagine.

Today cars have such thin chassis, 3 mm........to promote flex. .......but the end users have more issue.

I race for many years. Sometimes what we read over the internet may confuse us. The factory drivers do this and this........in order to win. They are not wrong as they are paid to WIN only. They change cars, chassis, engines, etc every race.......

Of course the factory drivers have the reliability and we don't. Cause we got to run the goddamn cars in a annual basis. There goes for our engine, servo, receivers, battery and TX.

The strongest car I ran is a D8....if I am not wrong it comes with a 4 mm chassis. The car built like a tank. When I first ran the car.......my pals laughed at me......that's the heaviest car in the world.......I grinned and said " This is a WORLD CHAMPION car " ..............

How many manufacturers won the World Champion ? Not many.....just my opinion.

I'm looking to replace my head gaskets in my Arrow but not sure which is the correct part number I need. both say they are gasket sets???

A-ST-020 ARROW RACING GTR-21 HEAD GASKET SET (4PCS)

or

A-NB-112 ARROW RACING GTR-21 EXHAUST SEAL/GASKET SET (4)
2 cooper gaskets, 2 silver gaskets

Mark Erce,

Hi.....correct part number is:-

A-ST-020 ARROW RACING GTR-21 HEAD GASKET SET (4PCS)
2 cooper gaskets, 2 silver gaskets ( Metal Headshim )

A-NB-112 ARROW RACING GTR-21 EXHAUST SEAL/GASKET SET (4)
This is the rubber gasket for your engine and tune pipe.

Hope this help.

THANKS. I wonder why in the item description for the A-NB-112 it says 2 cooper gaskets, 2 silver gaskets, thats deceiving!

I have no idea. Picture is correct over Hobby Pro website.
Maybe they confuse over the description given by Taiwan.

But I think I am right.......

Anyone have an issue with HSN gasket going bad?

Qualify in 2nd position at my local nite race,done 10 min qualify without pit,the engine perform great with very steady idle

A little trouble will my new Arrow Gen II today at Thunder Alley.

Here's the scoop:
-Broke in using heat cycle method. (Pre heat to 200* and do 5, 3 minute runs. Then 3, 5 minute runs. Getting up to 250 each time, cooling between each run. Then tossing on track and running easily for 5 tanks. Then Tune.)
-The motor is about 3 tanks shy of a gallon.
-Stock New Agama 3 shoe clutch with 1.1 springs.
-Go EFRA 2072 pipe (ran on my last Arrow and it ripped)
-Stock Carb.
-Break in shim left it

Now the problem is. It runs good for about 3-4 minutes then randomly I have NO bottom end what so ever. It bogs and runs poorly until the mid range kicks in. Then it pulls for days. There are no leaks, idles great, sounds good on the bench and top. I don't think it's a problem with the motor, but maybe the carb? I ran an OS carb on my last Arrow from day 1 and it was awesome.


Has any one had this problem? And can someone offer any advice onto what it could possibly be? The motor rips when it's running but getting there seams to be a problem at the moment.

I am pretty sure you are having carb insulation issues when it heats up.

If you haven't already touched MSN, open it up 1/4 turn counter clockwise, then retune LSN. If it seems to improve, go another 1/4 turn and retune LSN. If it gets worse, go back.

Shy of this, throwing another carb on you can instantly troubleshoot if that's the problem.

has anybody tried any dynamite pipes and if so which 1

Make sure your clutch is not causing the engine bog. If not, try an os carb to find theproblem.

here is the best way to tune any mid-range needle on any carb that has one:

Unscrew the complete high speed needle housing and shine a flashlight into the hole of the carb. turn your mid range needle until you see the hole in the needle perfectly lined up and centered under the High speed needle housing. Once you do this, never touch your mid range needle again. Put it all back together and re-tune from there.

We have not heard of carb issue over here and Australia too. Maybe we got the lastest V2 version. That problem been rectify.

But the earlier version have issue with carb as the o ring are deemed smaller. All you have to do is change to the newer oversize carb o ring for V1 engine.

How do you identify ? I believe it is hard to. Just change the o ring to the lastest and all the carb tuning issue will go away.

Thanks guys. I got my MSN set where it should be, and clutch is fresh/ broken in.

What would be the "carb insulation issues" .. I put a different Arrow carb on the motor and there was no possible way to catch a tune with it. It would spool up at idle no matter what. I will get my OS carb (friend has it -___-) and slap it on and see what happens!