hi.
when i bought the 2060 the dealer did not find the box.So i only have the 2060.
I was running the 2087 with the 192mm. It did work grate.But the 2060 with the RB 192 bend is smoother in someway for me,more easy to handle.It feels like the power range is wider.

hi


today i was training again.
The engine was performing wel.I did change the head today.I did keep the arrow button and just put the novarossi 21/4 head on.Nice fit.
The engine did run a little cooler. It did fall from 257 to 230.


Was running grate for around 6 tanks and then suddenly stop.The clutchbell dit cut the fuel line in two pieces.
I put the fuel line back.It runs grate for 2 min then starts to rew up a little.
I stop it.Inspect the fuel line and find several cuts in it.
Throw in a brand new one,also for the exhoust.
Start it up and start racing again. After a minute it rews up again.
Tried to adjust the needles but in my head i knew something was wrong.

I took the engine of and inspect the bearings and carburator,no wet spots.
Then i turned the engine upside down and look at the crank case.
There it was,a crack.
I had my novarossis rewing up many times and always driving the same track.
But this is my first cracked up crank case.

Everytime i had red about this happend to others i have thinking:
What the f4y4y are they doing with theyrs engines....

I guess this can happend to eny engine.

It seems like everything else is ok.

But is it possible to fix this? is there a glue or something that can fix this??

You cannot fix a cracked case. It needs to be replaced. My Arrow has been nothing but a headache so I have moved on. The quality is just not there and it does not withstand the punishment that comes with off road Nitro racing. I was all gung-ho in the begging with lots of good reports from other racers and customers but now that I have personal experiences and hear what others are going through I have given up on it. The case, bearings, carb, conrod, and cooling head are all below average IMO. Spend a bit more and get a bullit, OS, Werks, alpha or Nova.

agree

The case can crack on any engine, even a $500 OS XZ-B Speed. I have had Nova Rossi P5's crack a case in less then a gallon.

The good thing is Arrow parts are super cheap compared to $300-$500 engines, so any problems you have can be cheaply fixed. I have been running the GTR-21 for over 1 year and have only cracked one case and that was because I landed right on the case after casing a tripple jump.

only $62

Only $33

I have never cracked any of my Arrow fins, but I have bent one. And I am even using the lightened head that is all drilled out. Maybe forward cab bodies expose the head too much? I use the stock Agama body where just the top 2 fins stick up above the body and the wing is high enough that it does not hit hard when flipping up side down.

i have another new arrow and a used novarossi.
The cooling head is no big deal.I have 2 novarossiheads that i was not using.
They fit wery good on the arrow button.So that solves that problem.

And i can put the wing a on my xb9 a little higher.
And since the rest of this broken arrow is ok it might be usable as a spearparts...

when it comes to the carburator...the needles are ok,they dont change position even if they feel loose.

I can blame everything that happend to my arrow on my self and driving style ore lack of driving style

But again i was beeting up the novarossis a hole lot more without any failure to the engine.

So i think it is a combination of driving style quality and bad luck.
There just might be a reason why most other race engines cost the dobble and tripple of this.

I just got mine.... Hope i have some luck with it..... There not that bad are they?????

No they are not that bad. You definitely want to change the con-rod as soon as all metal pinch is gone. You don't want to put an aggressive race tune on it until all metal pinch is gone. You want to change the bearings at about the 2 gallon mark or at least the front one. The case, head and carb are sub-par but they do work. It's not a bad engine but IMO for $50 more there are much better options.

My Arrow V2 ripped like a bat out of hell. But I did have problems with the carb, swapped that out to a Werks carb. Ran good.

Then, I broke the cooling head fin, drove me nuts rattling around so i put a old V-spec head on it. Ran good again.

Then the front bearing was leaking so bad that I decided to swap out the internals and put them in my O.S. V-spec case. Everything was running great again when this weekend I was running the pro series at LCRC and CRACK!! Snapped the OS case.

This was all with in two gallons on the engine.

I had about 4 great weekends of racing with this engine until some problems starting popping up.

I might try the V3 next year but for now I have changed the bearing in the front and put everything back together in the original Arrow case and that motor will be my back up for the rest of the season. I went back to my Werks engine for now.

Dont get me wrong. The Arrow motor is a beast when it's running. I will wait and see if the Vp Pro guys are still running this engine next year. If they are running the V3 and think it's worthwhile I will pick one up for next season.

The Arrow crank is a huge improvement over the old standard VZ because the crank pin was fixed.

The Arrow P/S is same overall as the OS, I would say. A lot harder materials and it seems like the pinch stays much longer. Casting/machining is whatever (look under the piston and it's all kinds of ugly from the casting - and piston has lots of black silica speckles compared to the OS). But it works really good.

The con rod is hit or miss. Sometimes the brass bushings have good tolerance, sometimes they don't. You can see the machining marks up and down the rod from the tooling, not the smoothest.

The case and head are whatever... cheap cast aluminum. Bearings are generic. The carb is essentially the same thing on the new GO engines and soon to be new JS engines. Works for some, not others. Really it's a combination of how much effort you want to put into the carb and your tuning style.


It's not a terrible engine... it's a proven design so of course it'll make some power. The important parts (crank, piston, sleeve) are decent quality.

wOW... Thanks for the replies fellas...I havent really been babying engines lately...I go to a race tune with my engines very quickly with better results.... But I will consider this one, hoping it will last me at least the rest of the season.. I dont see myself changing bearings etc.... hopefully things will work out..

Hi everyone,

Haven't been in here for a while. When it comes to engines, everyone have something to shout about. This is better than that one, mod are better than standard, blah blah and blah. It never stop.....

Well, I been racing for years. I guess everyone have their own requirement in engine. And each engine have it's specifications. The OS, Orion, Alpha, Argus, Arrow, Werks or etc. Most importantly, it suits the way you drive and it gives you results. That's my point. In my dictionary, there's no this engine is better than this one or vice versa. It is just how you understand it and it's characteristics. Just a learning curve. Eventually, the more engine or cars you drive, you learn how to set it up or tune.......

Back to Arrow, we have many engine users here. But no reports on carb or bearing issues. The engine is consistent in performance.

Regarding broken heatsink/crankcase, many times it happen due to our own negligence. The way we drive, the engine mount screws are not 100% tight with lock washers, the excessive chassis flex which many cars do now due to performance ( moving everything to the front.....eg...Xray, Serpent, Kyosho, Mugen...etc... I have cracked even a OS Speed crankcase.........on a Kyosho MP9......years ago. But when I changed to a aluminium, torque rod the problem goes away. Even the forward style body shell/bull dog.....highly exposes the engine......leaving the engine to take most of the knocking when we crashes. When shit happens, everything breaks..............that's racing.....

The Arrow engine is not the fastest engine out there, but it is the smoothest. At $199 or less..........I have no complain. I have try others, from the same country but more or less the same. I don't think others is better than a Arrow. Unless you wants to compare it with a Novarossi or OS. I prefer OS engine....to be honest not the Novarossi.

But why I choosen it over the current OS.....cause it is a short stroke and long needle tuning............and I like the Vspec.......not so much on the XZB. Moreover, Vpsec is 2 world champion engine. Arrow is similar but not 100%.

when it only comes to performance i am still happy with it.
It is faster than my novarossi4btt.It is smoother.
And it does get a lot of beating from me landing on the roof.
And the clearance between engine and chassi is small.I race with medium flex.
Only my rtr car (ansmann vapor)had lock washers on the engine.The xray dont.
I always use blue lock tite.Never had any screws loosening.Never seen anyone using lock washers.But i might concider it.

I think my case did brake as an result of too many hit.
The weard thing here is that the crack i am talking about here is not really a
crack.But the engine going apart where it was put together from the factory.
It did simply open upp.
I dont know how they put it together but it is easy to see where.

On the novarossi there is a enforced cover/plate on the same spot.So it
will not go apart...

sorry for bad explaining but my english is wery limited....