Well we finally get to try out the new CRE Cobra T Truggy...Johny's first run of the year, new track, new truck.....video is shot in HD, so click the link instead.....

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great video!

neal, the inner front bearing where the crank comes through has a dark brown color almost like rust this was also on the crank and the bearing doesn't necisarily feel gritty but dry. There is no dirt in the motor (that i can tell from swabing). Do you think there is no lube getting to the bearing through the oil hole? I have a ceramic double sealed tko.

I also ran in the grass the other morning and it was kind of damp with dew but nothing major besides i have done that before with no issues.

Ever seen this before?

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Reading through the pages I have seen alot of people trying to explain tunning the werks b5 engines, So i thought I would shoot some footage of different set ups regarding tunning for people to have a visual reference rather than a read me how to as it has been posted many times...

First up i have done the 2 stage idle tune with about a 3 second idle on before returning to stable idle, 1st stage after coming of some wide open runs the motor idles on for 3 seconds, 2nd stage the engine returns to the correct stable idle position....I hope this helps people understnad the 2 stage idle tune.

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Sam, thanks for the nice comments on the Youtube video's Neal Posted of me at the track. I really appreciate it! :cool:

So is this an ok tune to run? Thats the only way I could get my engine to run good this weekend. I mean I guess I can't see any negatives about it, just a little starnge.

that is excactly how my engine runs. And for a while i could not stand it. Werks motors idle different then any engine i have ever had. What would aggravate me is When the idle drops it sounds at times like it is going flame but doesn't.

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You can run your motor this way with out issue, it will be a little down on run time & power because the tune is a little rich on l.s.n and the idle gap is a little big which is what is causing this 2 stage idle to happen, the engine will drive like this with out issue but as i said your run time will be lower than if the tune was right on the money

I see, I did notice my run times were less than the day before. I will try to reset the idle gap and go from there.

dreaux, there is nothing different about how our engines idle my friend, the issue is how you have the engine tuned :p As savagesam mentioned this is caused by the engine being slightly too rich on the LS and a tad too lean on the HS and/or having a too large air gap. A few seconds with a screw driver and the two stage idle is gone;)

Something to keep in mind here with Sam's video is he is running on pavement...High grip pavement will force you to run the engine rich..Running rich forces you to open the idle gap...opening the idle gap causes the idle to hang when letting off the throttle......... Also his buggy is at 1/4 tank, he is doing speed runs then slamming on the brakes... This causes the fuel in the tank to slosh forward, the fuel intake will then pick up air bubbles and artificially make the engine sound leaner then it actually is......... Traction is just so high on pavement that the machines stop much more aggressively then they do on the track, this causes all of the fuel in the tank to slosh to the front of the tank much worse ....Pretty much nothing short of having the pickup at the front of the tank is going to eliminate this problem...And having the pickup at the front just is not a option....... I have done hundreds and hundreds of speed tests on pavement over the years and almost no matter what we try we cannot fully get rid of the fuel starvation on hard braking......

Is that vid ment to show how a B5 or Clocked B5 should run
like with the low speed needle adjusted correctly ? :(

Its purpose is to show a too rich LSN with too much idle gap....

i understand completly, i do alot of the same runing that he is doing in the video. I guess i am just hard on my engines. Nothing wrong with that:D

And when it gets like that i have learned to let it be. And it is working out just dandy!

Tuning Nitro engines is the most difficult thing to master. There are so many variables and the slightest increment of adjustments can make your engine crap. After years I am still novice at best at it. I can tell you that it all starts with your idle. Set it and forget it. I see allot of people turning their idle screws which in turn will mess up your entire tune. Leave it alone! Adjust your idle with your LSN. If it idles to low or to high that means your LSN is out of whack, and many times it's a combination of LSN and HSN. Another big mistake I see allot is people who tune by temps. If your engine is great at 200 and making good smoke that does not mean you can lean it out 3 hours and it will be better. Again, leave it alone. Usually people find that perfect tune eventually and within minutes they start turning the damn needles. :weird:
Also realize that all engines do not tune the same, but they all start with the idle gap. If your gap is too big or to small you will constantly be chasing your tune. If you think I'm talking out of my butt ask a pro to tune your engine or call Neal and ask him for help. In most cases you won't be able to handle an engine with an optimum tune because the power is too insane! On more than one occasion I had to richen engines tuned by pro's because I couldn't put the power down.

I'm finally learning this myself, but.....the million dollar question is, what is the correct idle gap? I've heard everything from .5mm to 1mm.....and I could see it being different between different engines :)....maybe Neal can chime in and teach us all :D