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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 13884983)
I HIGHLY recommend not using any other bearing than the 17011 steel (no real advantage with ceramic front) ,they are THE BEST front bearing on the market period
I have been using avid rear bearings for rebuilds with great success the last two years ,tko before that |
Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13888275)
What about it's depth? Does 6.3mm any differ than other's 6mm? Can i use this bearing on my Picco mill?
yes the 6.3mm part is only the inner race |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 13888288)
i have installed the 17011 front bearing on pretty much every engine out there for guys , most comments are my engine has never ran this good and held its tune this good after the installation
yes the 6.3mm part is only the inner race |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 13887091)
You can race it at the point youre at just leave hsn a bit rich ,DO NOT LEAVE LSN RICH !! This will compromise front bearing seal
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need help rebuilding
I recently purchased a few Rossi engines and they are all blown. They all need sleeves pistions and the works. Where can I get parts? Or is there somewhere I can send them to be rebuilt??? I'm new please help lol
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Originally Posted by qwirtsy29
(Post 13892194)
I recently purchased a few Rossi engines and they are all blown. They all need sleeves pistions and the works. Where can I get parts? Or is there somewhere I can send them to be rebuilt??? I'm new please help lol
What models? |
Originally Posted by rage1945
(Post 13892164)
I never run my LSN rich but can you explain why this is good for the front bearing seal Monty? Thanks! See you at Tburg!!
I said DO NOT RUN LSN RICH |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 13892502)
Why whats good?
I said DO NOT RUN LSN RICH |
Originally Posted by Lille-bror
(Post 13892602)
Hehe. I guess its: why is it a good thing NOT to run the LSN rich? :nod:
Oil builds up in crankcase , when crankcase gets pressurized due to increased rpm the oil goes out through front bearing when crankcase is on sealed pulse of the loop |
Originally Posted by Lille-bror
(Post 13892602)
Hehe. I guess its: why is it a good thing NOT to run the LSN rich? :nod:
Engine will come in at 130c, because you're fat on bottom you're hammering the throttle all the time. |
Originally Posted by Lille-bror
(Post 13892602)
Hehe. I guess its: why is it a good thing NOT to run the LSN rich? :nod:
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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 13892626)
You will see everytime you break an engine in with excessively rich low speed needle you will blow out the front brng
Oil builds up in crankcase , when crankcase gets pressurized due to increased rpm the oil goes out through front bearing when crankcase is on sealed pulse of the loop |
Looking for a bit of advice, been in nitro a long time, ran Werks mostly. I decided to try the Mugen Beat BT5 as ive always wanted to try novarossi. I followed my normal break-in procedure, Heat cycle, with good results. I have less than 1 gallon and very low compression when cold, like wont hold itself up sideways when holding the flywheel. I pulled the filter and had a bit of dust on the top edge of the venturi but nothing seemed to be inside. I pulled the carb and the backplate at the track and everything looks fine with no signs of dirt getting in... I also just recently had issues with random shutting off and troubles with my idle once warm. Tried new plugs, checked fuel line and gaskets, clutch is good also. I am assuming something must have gotten in for this low of compression with less than a gallon, I guess I am just looking for opinions on whether to rebuild such a cheap motor or simply write it off and just get another?? I haven't pulled the P/S so I cant say to what condition they are in so This might be a bit premature, just a little bummed on the new motor.
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Originally Posted by trickedout
(Post 13895638)
Looking for a bit of advice, been in nitro a long time, ran Werks mostly. I decided to try the Mugen Beat BT5 as ive always wanted to try novarossi. I followed my normal break-in procedure, Heat cycle, with good results. I have less than 1 gallon and very low compression when cold, like wont hold itself up sideways when holding the flywheel. I pulled the filter and had a bit of dust on the top edge of the venturi but nothing seemed to be inside. I pulled the carb and the backplate at the track and everything looks fine with no signs of dirt getting in... I also just recently had issues with random shutting off and troubles with my idle once warm. Tried new plugs, checked fuel line and gaskets, clutch is good also. I am assuming something must have gotten in for this low of compression with less than a gallon, I guess I am just looking for opinions on whether to rebuild such a cheap motor or simply write it off and just get another?? I haven't pulled the P/S so I cant say to what condition they are in so This might be a bit premature, just a little bummed on the new motor.
You will have to break it in again but its worth the $25. Make sure your pre heating for break in and taking piston to bottom of stroke when cooling. |
Originally Posted by beidle99
(Post 13895668)
Sounds like you may have gotten some dirt or dust inside. I would pull the P/S and send it over to Ray at Rayaracing.com for a cleaning and resize.
You will have to break it in again but its worth the $25. Make sure your pre heating for break in and taking piston to bottom of stroke when cooling. |
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